Re: Douglas Fir Plywood versus Okumme Opinion
I built a Shellback Dinghy using 1/4" marine grade doug fir. I used
it some but for about 2 years it sat out in the sun on top of a dinghy
rack. The outside is sealed with West System epoxy followed by
Interlux 2 part epoxy primer and Interlux white glossy one part
polyurethane paint. The inside I just painted directly with the
white paint on top of the plywood. There was no checking on the
outside. Some checking occured on the inside. Otherwise the boat
seems as solid as when I built it.
I think unless you are going to finish it bright doug fir would be the
way to go - but make sure there are no voids. The next boat I build I
will seal both inside and out using the same system.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Todd Richardson" <Richardsonte@c...>
wrote:
it some but for about 2 years it sat out in the sun on top of a dinghy
rack. The outside is sealed with West System epoxy followed by
Interlux 2 part epoxy primer and Interlux white glossy one part
polyurethane paint. The inside I just painted directly with the
white paint on top of the plywood. There was no checking on the
outside. Some checking occured on the inside. Otherwise the boat
seems as solid as when I built it.
I think unless you are going to finish it bright doug fir would be the
way to go - but make sure there are no voids. The next boat I build I
will seal both inside and out using the same system.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Todd Richardson" <Richardsonte@c...>
wrote:
> I am getting ready to purchase plywood for the start of a Long
> Micro.Any thoughts on using Douglas Fir versus Okume? I live in
> western Connecticut and have checked prices from Condins in White
> Plains. Yikes!!
>
> I would appreciate any advice. Thanks
> Todd Richardson
Warren:
My experience it that Southern Yellow Pine will check the same as fir. I
used BC pine to build Jim Michalak's Jonsboat last year, and it is checking
already. On the other hand, the pine is somewhat rot resistant. It is a
bit heavier than fir, but I think it makes a good choice where weight is not
a consideration, but where economy is.
Chuck
My experience it that Southern Yellow Pine will check the same as fir. I
used BC pine to build Jim Michalak's Jonsboat last year, and it is checking
already. On the other hand, the pine is somewhat rot resistant. It is a
bit heavier than fir, but I think it makes a good choice where weight is not
a consideration, but where economy is.
Chuck
> In a message dated 00-10-27 20:29:00 EDT, you write:is
>
> << I am getting ready to purchase plywood for the start of a Long
> Micro.Any thoughts on using Douglas Fir versus Okume? I live in
> western Connecticut and have checked prices from Condins in White
> Plains. Yikes!! >>
>
> I took a middle ground for a smaller boat, the Bolger "Oldshoe" which
> reflects some similarity to a small Micro. I am using exterior B-C pineat
> $10/ sheet (Home Depot 1/4" thick by Georgia Pacific). By doing this Imean
> think I will also beat the checking problem.
> Most of the stuff is unsuitable. However out of each group of 30-40
> sheets I have been fortunate enough to find a better one. By better I
> minimal or almost no voids on the "inside" edges when the sheet is cutfor
> smaller parts, and 2-4 imperfections on the "C" side that requirefairing.
> Will this streak of "luck" last long enough to get all the ply I need ?Who
> knows.these
> Also B-C pine is said to be the heaviest choice usually used for
> types of boats. All trade-offs. By the way, it takes a lot of time andaverage
> energy to sort through 30 sheets of ply, and if not dressed for the
> occasion, you might ruin your dress clothes, thereby increasing the
> price per sheet. Bring a heavy duty paper clip to "unfurl" so you cancheck
> the depth of the edge voids.
> Regards, Warren
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
>
Todd:
I agree with David on this one. Douglas Fir is very strong for its weight,
and pretty rot resistant. It's only vice is checking, and the cure (light
glass and epoxy) is only needed where it is exposed to the sun.
Chuck
I agree with David on this one. Douglas Fir is very strong for its weight,
and pretty rot resistant. It's only vice is checking, and the cure (light
glass and epoxy) is only needed where it is exposed to the sun.
Chuck
> Todd --
>
> If all you do is seal and paint it, fir will check. Count on it.
>
> However, even just the lightest coat of glass and resin will take
> care of that and cost you much, much less than Okumme. I don't think
> I'll ever use anything other than AC, unless it's BC.
>
> My epoxy/glass bill for the scooner was $550, including 2 locally
> purchased gallons of WestSystem. Trade that for Raka and we'd be down
> to $410, then subtract the gallon I wasted and the gallon I still
> have and we're down to about $350. My plywood bill was about $250
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
>
Okume, even though it's sold as marine ply, is not rot resistant. The 3/4"
bulkheads on my Columbia rotted out internally from water leaks. I replaced
them with fir. For 3/4" or 1/2" pieces, I would use MDO plywood. For 1/4",
Ac or BC - carefully selected...
Paul W. Esterle
Capt'n Pauley Video Productions
423.989.3159
S/V Bryn Awel, Columbia 10.7
Bristol, Tenn. USA
http://www.captnpauley.bigstep.com
http://pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
bulkheads on my Columbia rotted out internally from water leaks. I replaced
them with fir. For 3/4" or 1/2" pieces, I would use MDO plywood. For 1/4",
Ac or BC - carefully selected...
Paul W. Esterle
Capt'n Pauley Video Productions
423.989.3159
S/V Bryn Awel, Columbia 10.7
Bristol, Tenn. USA
http://www.captnpauley.bigstep.com
http://pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Richardson" <Richardsonte@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2000 8:11 PM
Subject: [bolger] Douglas Fir Plywood versus Okumme Opinion
> I am getting ready to purchase plywood for the start of a Long
> Micro.Any thoughts on using Douglas Fir versus Okume? I live in
> western Connecticut and have checked prices from Condins in White
> Plains. Yikes!!
>
> I would appreciate any advice. Thanks
> Todd Richardson
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
In a message dated 00-10-27 20:29:00 EDT, you write:
<< I am getting ready to purchase plywood for the start of a Long
Micro.Any thoughts on using Douglas Fir versus Okume? I live in
western Connecticut and have checked prices from Condins in White
Plains. Yikes!! >>
I took a middle ground for a smaller boat, the Bolger "Oldshoe" which is
reflects some similarity to a small Micro. I am using exterior B-C pine at
$10/ sheet (Home Depot 1/4" thick by Georgia Pacific). By doing this I
think I will also beat the checking problem.
Most of the stuff is unsuitable. However out of each group of 30-40
sheets I have been fortunate enough to find a better one. By better I mean
minimal or almost no voids on the "inside" edges when the sheet is cut for
smaller parts, and 2-4 imperfections on the "C" side that require fairing.
Will this streak of "luck" last long enough to get all the ply I need ? Who
knows.
Also B-C pine is said to be the heaviest choice usually used for these
types of boats. All trade-offs. By the way, it takes a lot of time and
energy to sort through 30 sheets of ply, and if not dressed for the
occasion, you might ruin your dress clothes, thereby increasing the average
price per sheet. Bring a heavy duty paper clip to "unfurl" so you can check
the depth of the edge voids.
Regards, Warren
<< I am getting ready to purchase plywood for the start of a Long
Micro.Any thoughts on using Douglas Fir versus Okume? I live in
western Connecticut and have checked prices from Condins in White
Plains. Yikes!! >>
I took a middle ground for a smaller boat, the Bolger "Oldshoe" which is
reflects some similarity to a small Micro. I am using exterior B-C pine at
$10/ sheet (Home Depot 1/4" thick by Georgia Pacific). By doing this I
think I will also beat the checking problem.
Most of the stuff is unsuitable. However out of each group of 30-40
sheets I have been fortunate enough to find a better one. By better I mean
minimal or almost no voids on the "inside" edges when the sheet is cut for
smaller parts, and 2-4 imperfections on the "C" side that require fairing.
Will this streak of "luck" last long enough to get all the ply I need ? Who
knows.
Also B-C pine is said to be the heaviest choice usually used for these
types of boats. All trade-offs. By the way, it takes a lot of time and
energy to sort through 30 sheets of ply, and if not dressed for the
occasion, you might ruin your dress clothes, thereby increasing the average
price per sheet. Bring a heavy duty paper clip to "unfurl" so you can check
the depth of the edge voids.
Regards, Warren
Todd --
If all you do is seal and paint it, fir will check. Count on it.
However, even just the lightest coat of glass and resin will take
care of that and cost you much, much less than Okumme. I don't think
I'll ever use anything other than AC, unless it's BC.
My epoxy/glass bill for the scooner was $550, including 2 locally
purchased gallons of WestSystem. Trade that for Raka and we'd be down
to $410, then subtract the gallon I wasted and the gallon I still
have and we're down to about $350. My plywood bill was about $250
YIBB,
David
134 W.26th St. 12th Floor
New York, NY 10001
(212) 243-1636
If all you do is seal and paint it, fir will check. Count on it.
However, even just the lightest coat of glass and resin will take
care of that and cost you much, much less than Okumme. I don't think
I'll ever use anything other than AC, unless it's BC.
My epoxy/glass bill for the scooner was $550, including 2 locally
purchased gallons of WestSystem. Trade that for Raka and we'd be down
to $410, then subtract the gallon I wasted and the gallon I still
have and we're down to about $350. My plywood bill was about $250
YIBB,
David
>I am getting ready to purchase plywood for the start of a LongCRUMBLING EMPIRE PRODUCTIONS
>Micro.Any thoughts on using Douglas Fir versus Okume? I live in
>western Connecticut and have checked prices from Condins in White
>Plains. Yikes!!
>
>I would appreciate any advice. Thanks
>Todd Richardson
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing
>- stay on topic
>- use punctuation
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
>- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
134 W.26th St. 12th Floor
New York, NY 10001
(212) 243-1636
I am getting ready to purchase plywood for the start of a Long
Micro.Any thoughts on using Douglas Fir versus Okume? I live in
western Connecticut and have checked prices from Condins in White
Plains. Yikes!!
I would appreciate any advice. Thanks
Todd Richardson
Micro.Any thoughts on using Douglas Fir versus Okume? I live in
western Connecticut and have checked prices from Condins in White
Plains. Yikes!!
I would appreciate any advice. Thanks
Todd Richardson