[bolger] Re: The Plywood Dilemma - Paraply Verse
My guess is that it's something else, maybe moisture, old resin, bad or
wrong catalyst, solvents, etc.
GHC
At 05:11 PM 11/11/1999 -0600, you wrote:
wrong catalyst, solvents, etc.
GHC
At 05:11 PM 11/11/1999 -0600, you wrote:
>I need to attend your polyester seminar someday <g>. I never seem to be
>able to get a consistent dry, hard lam from it. One time it's nice, next
>batch gummy. I think it's the big resin/hardener ratio - easy to miss it.
>
>Don Hodges
>dhodges@...
>http://www.ecoastlife.com
>Your Cyber-Vacation - Loafing on the Emerald Coast
>Small Boats, Building, Fishing, Paddling, Rowing, Sailing
>
>> I'm in your company there. On rec.boats.building, guys who mention
>> polyester and luan generally get lambasted, but I think it's a great way
>to
>> bang together something like a brick. If fact, I left a $30 brick in he
>> water at a marina - bcx, polyester, and housepaint - and there it was, 2-3
>> years later.
>>
>
>
>
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I need to attend your polyester seminar someday <g>. I never seem to be
able to get a consistent dry, hard lam from it. One time it's nice, next
batch gummy. I think it's the big resin/hardener ratio - easy to miss it.
Don Hodges
dhodges@...
http://www.ecoastlife.com
Your Cyber-Vacation - Loafing on the Emerald Coast
Small Boats, Building, Fishing, Paddling, Rowing, Sailing
able to get a consistent dry, hard lam from it. One time it's nice, next
batch gummy. I think it's the big resin/hardener ratio - easy to miss it.
Don Hodges
dhodges@...
http://www.ecoastlife.com
Your Cyber-Vacation - Loafing on the Emerald Coast
Small Boats, Building, Fishing, Paddling, Rowing, Sailing
> I'm in your company there. On rec.boats.building, guys who mentionto
> polyester and luan generally get lambasted, but I think it's a great way
> bang together something like a brick. If fact, I left a $30 brick in he
> water at a marina - bcx, polyester, and housepaint - and there it was, 2-3
> years later.
>
I'm in your company there. On rec.boats.building, guys who mention
polyester and luan generally get lambasted, but I think it's a great way to
bang together something like a brick. If fact, I left a $30 brick in he
water at a marina - bcx, polyester, and housepaint - and there it was, 2-3
years later.
I have to confess, on my scooner and sneakeasy, a twinge of remorse when
you realize that the boat's going to work out pretty well (and all the
Bolger's I built have), you'll probably keep it, and you kind of wish you
had some nice marine ply under you. Add to that the mental flash of you
and your wife treading water while you explain the fine points ;-}
If fact, I think I'll eventually replace the sneakeasy with a really nice
version one day. Then again, Bolger's square boats are not Trumpy's, so why
flog a dead horse.
GHC
At 06:47 PM 11/10/1999 -0600, you wrote:
polyester and luan generally get lambasted, but I think it's a great way to
bang together something like a brick. If fact, I left a $30 brick in he
water at a marina - bcx, polyester, and housepaint - and there it was, 2-3
years later.
I have to confess, on my scooner and sneakeasy, a twinge of remorse when
you realize that the boat's going to work out pretty well (and all the
Bolger's I built have), you'll probably keep it, and you kind of wish you
had some nice marine ply under you. Add to that the mental flash of you
and your wife treading water while you explain the fine points ;-}
If fact, I think I'll eventually replace the sneakeasy with a really nice
version one day. Then again, Bolger's square boats are not Trumpy's, so why
flog a dead horse.
GHC
At 06:47 PM 11/10/1999 -0600, you wrote:
>If I were totally sold on the Tenn being a keeper, I would agree. Actually
>it's only big, not complex and I'm only capable of a workboat finish - no
>tooling or patience to speak of.
About the ladder scaffold: I used about 8 of my 9 "ladder lives" on that
project; never again!
Don Hodges
project; never again!
Don Hodges
You're right about the B/C yellow-pine "curl". It can be very annoying.
Amazingly, it seems to disappear after you rip it in half.
One other idea that (seems) to be working out ok on the Windsprint so far.
Use 1/4 for the sides and 1/2" for the bottom. The compression in the sides
stiffen them, and the long, unrockered bottom on tennessee just screams for
the rigidity of 1/2".
Look foward to your experiences with paraply.
And you're right about the Carrabelle to points south passage. this scares
many off from making that trip, especially during the front season.
Good luck. Love the pics of the "scaffold" used to build your bow shelter.
You got workers Comp right?
Robert Lundy
Amazingly, it seems to disappear after you rip it in half.
One other idea that (seems) to be working out ok on the Windsprint so far.
Use 1/4 for the sides and 1/2" for the bottom. The compression in the sides
stiffen them, and the long, unrockered bottom on tennessee just screams for
the rigidity of 1/2".
Look foward to your experiences with paraply.
And you're right about the Carrabelle to points south passage. this scares
many off from making that trip, especially during the front season.
Good luck. Love the pics of the "scaffold" used to build your bow shelter.
You got workers Comp right?
Robert Lundy
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Donald Hodges [mailto:dhodges@...]
> Sent: 10 November, 1999 8:20 PM
> To:bolger@egroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: The Plywood Dilemma - Paraply Verse
>
>
> Robert, I'll try to reply to your points below...
> Don Hodges
>
> From: <rlundy@...>
> To: <bolger@...>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 12:11 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: The Plywood Dilemma - Paraply Verse
>
>
> >
> > 1. Fiberglass Coatings Inc. here in St. Pete is now selling Marine
> > Plywood. I noticed this sign in the store 1 week after I bought my
> > pine BCX at Home Depot. The 1/4" was $25 a sheet which is a great
> > price. I didn't look at any to review quality, but you could call them
> > (www.fgci.com). With that much plywood a stake, it might pay for
> > itself to drive down here and pick it up form the panhandle.
>
> Thanks, I'll check them out before the big lot purchase - I
> intend to buy my
> epoxy there, and may drive down as suggested.
>
> > 2. B/C yellow pine exterior. I'm bulding with this. It has its
> > drawbacks (weight being the biggest), but the stuff is really strong,
> > really cheap, and the C side is much better than the C side of ACX fir.
> > You have to shop around to find a good batch (sometimes the stuff at
> > home depot is great, sometimes it stinks). The good batches have no
> > voids whatsoever. he worst I've ever used had voids at the edges.
>
> The current batch here stinks and is all curly too... looks like
> it got wet.
>
> > 3. My Home Depot has A/B Fir Marine Ply that looks very good. The 3/8
> > was $44 a sheet (or the 1/2 inch was), considerably less than a
> > lumberyard quote.
>
> That's what I called "Asian off-spec" - not available in 3/8
>
> > 4. I stare at the paraply at Home Depot all the time. the stuff is
> > beautiful, has many plys and just looks like a bargain. I think I need
> > to figure some reason to find a piece and boil it myself.
>
> If you can resist, I'll do it for you next week!
>
> > My thought has always been that if the plywood is just a core, sealed
> > in epoxy, with glass cloth on surfaces outside, anything without voids
> > is OK, as the epoxy takes care of the water problem. Drystored boats
> > take care of biglewater problems. Equation is Epoxy+cheap owner
> > labor+really cheap plywood = good wood. Some (Dave Carnell) would
> > argue that all the epoxy in the world won't make cheap wood the
> > equivalent of marine ply. I would agree if the marine ply were
> > Brynzeel. I would disgree when its come to fir marine ply.
>
> The Tennessee will only be coated, not glassed; I wouldn't hesitate if it
> were glassed.
>
> > Robert Lundy
> > St. Petersburg, Fla.
> >
> > PS thanks for having the pics of the Cedar Key messabout on your
> > website. I'm hoping to bring my finished Windsprint in May of 2000.
>
>
> You're welcome, it's a great outing, the SeaPearl bunch is (are)
> very active
> and fun to knock about with - I haven't done much with the site, I have a
> couple of others which demand some time. I hope to have the Tenn at least
> afloat by then - I have an old 6 hp longshaft Evinrude for the sea trials.
> Who knows, may even cruise down if no trailer by then. BUT, the
> fronts are
> pretty strong through May and the outside passage from Carrabelle to Cedar
> Key can be boisterous... I did it going north in a 30 foot keelboat in
> November once, it would be a challenge for Tennessee, especially
> going back
> north if the NW fronts are active. It's only 15 feet deep 25 miles
> offshore. We stayed in 60 feet, got out to 90 miles or so.
>
> Don Hodges
>dhodges@...
>http://www.ecoastlife.com
> Your Cyber-Vacation - Loafing on the Emerald Coast
> Small Boats, Building, Fishing, Paddling, Rowing, Sailing
>
>
>
>
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Robert, I'll try to reply to your points below...
Don Hodges
From: <rlundy@...>
To: <bolger@...>
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 12:11 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: The Plywood Dilemma - Paraply Verse
epoxy there, and may drive down as suggested.
were glassed.
and fun to knock about with - I haven't done much with the site, I have a
couple of others which demand some time. I hope to have the Tenn at least
afloat by then - I have an old 6 hp longshaft Evinrude for the sea trials.
Who knows, may even cruise down if no trailer by then. BUT, the fronts are
pretty strong through May and the outside passage from Carrabelle to Cedar
Key can be boisterous... I did it going north in a 30 foot keelboat in
November once, it would be a challenge for Tennessee, especially going back
north if the NW fronts are active. It's only 15 feet deep 25 miles
offshore. We stayed in 60 feet, got out to 90 miles or so.
Don Hodges
dhodges@...
http://www.ecoastlife.com
Your Cyber-Vacation - Loafing on the Emerald Coast
Small Boats, Building, Fishing, Paddling, Rowing, Sailing
Don Hodges
From: <rlundy@...>
To: <bolger@...>
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 12:11 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: The Plywood Dilemma - Paraply Verse
>Thanks, I'll check them out before the big lot purchase - I intend to buy my
> 1. Fiberglass Coatings Inc. here in St. Pete is now selling Marine
> Plywood. I noticed this sign in the store 1 week after I bought my
> pine BCX at Home Depot. The 1/4" was $25 a sheet which is a great
> price. I didn't look at any to review quality, but you could call them
> (www.fgci.com). With that much plywood a stake, it might pay for
> itself to drive down here and pick it up form the panhandle.
epoxy there, and may drive down as suggested.
> 2. B/C yellow pine exterior. I'm bulding with this. It has itsThe current batch here stinks and is all curly too... looks like it got wet.
> drawbacks (weight being the biggest), but the stuff is really strong,
> really cheap, and the C side is much better than the C side of ACX fir.
> You have to shop around to find a good batch (sometimes the stuff at
> home depot is great, sometimes it stinks). The good batches have no
> voids whatsoever. he worst I've ever used had voids at the edges.
> 3. My Home Depot has A/B Fir Marine Ply that looks very good. The 3/8That's what I called "Asian off-spec" - not available in 3/8
> was $44 a sheet (or the 1/2 inch was), considerably less than a
> lumberyard quote.
> 4. I stare at the paraply at Home Depot all the time. the stuff isIf you can resist, I'll do it for you next week!
> beautiful, has many plys and just looks like a bargain. I think I need
> to figure some reason to find a piece and boil it myself.
> My thought has always been that if the plywood is just a core, sealedThe Tennessee will only be coated, not glassed; I wouldn't hesitate if it
> in epoxy, with glass cloth on surfaces outside, anything without voids
> is OK, as the epoxy takes care of the water problem. Drystored boats
> take care of biglewater problems. Equation is Epoxy+cheap owner
> labor+really cheap plywood = good wood. Some (Dave Carnell) would
> argue that all the epoxy in the world won't make cheap wood the
> equivalent of marine ply. I would agree if the marine ply were
> Brynzeel. I would disgree when its come to fir marine ply.
were glassed.
> Robert LundyYou're welcome, it's a great outing, the SeaPearl bunch is (are) very active
> St. Petersburg, Fla.
>
> PS thanks for having the pics of the Cedar Key messabout on your
> website. I'm hoping to bring my finished Windsprint in May of 2000.
and fun to knock about with - I haven't done much with the site, I have a
couple of others which demand some time. I hope to have the Tenn at least
afloat by then - I have an old 6 hp longshaft Evinrude for the sea trials.
Who knows, may even cruise down if no trailer by then. BUT, the fronts are
pretty strong through May and the outside passage from Carrabelle to Cedar
Key can be boisterous... I did it going north in a 30 foot keelboat in
November once, it would be a challenge for Tennessee, especially going back
north if the NW fronts are active. It's only 15 feet deep 25 miles
offshore. We stayed in 60 feet, got out to 90 miles or so.
Don Hodges
dhodges@...
http://www.ecoastlife.com
Your Cyber-Vacation - Loafing on the Emerald Coast
Small Boats, Building, Fishing, Paddling, Rowing, Sailing
Gregg,
If I were totally sold on the Tenn being a keeper, I would agree. Actually
it's only big, not complex and I'm only capable of a workboat finish - no
tooling or patience to speak of.
The latest: I went to buy the para today, and they had "1/4 Ext Luan" which
looked good too at $10, 1/4 para is $16. It's a lot lighter (5.2 mm wheras
the para is full 6 mm). So, for the skiff I bought 2 sheets luan and one
sheet Para for the bottom - I'll test the scraps of both.
I laid down the "Glass Scarf" with 3 inch 12 oz. glass - fingers crossed til
tomorrow! Should come out with 4x12 luan for sides, 4x12 para/luan for
bottom.
Don Hodges
dhodges@...
http://www.ecoastlife.com
If I were totally sold on the Tenn being a keeper, I would agree. Actually
it's only big, not complex and I'm only capable of a workboat finish - no
tooling or patience to speak of.
The latest: I went to buy the para today, and they had "1/4 Ext Luan" which
looked good too at $10, 1/4 para is $16. It's a lot lighter (5.2 mm wheras
the para is full 6 mm). So, for the skiff I bought 2 sheets luan and one
sheet Para for the bottom - I'll test the scraps of both.
I laid down the "Glass Scarf" with 3 inch 12 oz. glass - fingers crossed til
tomorrow! Should come out with 4x12 luan for sides, 4x12 para/luan for
bottom.
Don Hodges
dhodges@...
http://www.ecoastlife.com
>
> I used paraply in my light schooner - no problems except a few more voids
> found after launching. It is well-sealed in epoxy and stores dry.
>
> I just wouldn't use it myself on something as big and complex as a
> Tennessee. In a daysailor, you add a rudder and some sails and go sail.
> In a cruiser, you're building cabin and windows, furniture, nav station,
> (head?, galley?) etc. all on a shaky foundation. Just my opinion.
>
> Gregg
Hi Don:
A few options.
1. Fiberglass Coatings Inc. here in St. Pete is now selling Marine
Plywood. I noticed this sign in the store 1 week after I bought my
pine BCX at Home Depot. The 1/4" was $25 a sheet which is a great
price. I didn't look at any to review quality, but you could call them
(www.fgci.com). With that much plywood a stake, it might pay for
itself to drive down here and pick it up form the panhandle.
2. B/C yellow pine exterior. I'm bulding with this. It has its
drawbacks (weight being the biggest), but the stuff is really strong,
really cheap, and the C side is much better than the C side of ACX fir.
You have to shop around to find a good batch (sometimes the stuff at
home depot is great, sometimes it stinks). The good batches have no
voids whatsoever. he worst I've ever used had voids at the edges.
3. My Home Depot has A/B Fir Marine Ply that looks very good. The 3/8
was $44 a sheet (or the 1/2 inch was), considerably less than a
lumberyard quote.
4. I stare at the paraply at Home Depot all the time. the stuff is
beautiful, has many plys and just looks like a bargain. I think I need
to figure some reason to find a piece and boil it myself.
My thought has always been that if the plywood is just a core, sealed
in epoxy, with glass cloth on surfaces outside, anything without voids
is OK, as the epoxy takes care of the water problem. Drystored boats
take care of biglewater problems. Equation is Epoxy+cheap owner
labor+really cheap plywood = good wood. Some (Dave Carnell) would
argue that all the epoxy in the world won't make cheap wood the
equivalent of marine ply. I would agree if the marine ply were
Brynzeel. I would disgree when its come to fir marine ply.
Robert Lundy
St. Petersburg, Fla.
PS thanks for having the pics of the Cedar Key messabout on your
website. I'm hoping to bring my finished Windsprint in May of 2000.
"donald hodges" <dhodge-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=799
A few options.
1. Fiberglass Coatings Inc. here in St. Pete is now selling Marine
Plywood. I noticed this sign in the store 1 week after I bought my
pine BCX at Home Depot. The 1/4" was $25 a sheet which is a great
price. I didn't look at any to review quality, but you could call them
(www.fgci.com). With that much plywood a stake, it might pay for
itself to drive down here and pick it up form the panhandle.
2. B/C yellow pine exterior. I'm bulding with this. It has its
drawbacks (weight being the biggest), but the stuff is really strong,
really cheap, and the C side is much better than the C side of ACX fir.
You have to shop around to find a good batch (sometimes the stuff at
home depot is great, sometimes it stinks). The good batches have no
voids whatsoever. he worst I've ever used had voids at the edges.
3. My Home Depot has A/B Fir Marine Ply that looks very good. The 3/8
was $44 a sheet (or the 1/2 inch was), considerably less than a
lumberyard quote.
4. I stare at the paraply at Home Depot all the time. the stuff is
beautiful, has many plys and just looks like a bargain. I think I need
to figure some reason to find a piece and boil it myself.
My thought has always been that if the plywood is just a core, sealed
in epoxy, with glass cloth on surfaces outside, anything without voids
is OK, as the epoxy takes care of the water problem. Drystored boats
take care of biglewater problems. Equation is Epoxy+cheap owner
labor+really cheap plywood = good wood. Some (Dave Carnell) would
argue that all the epoxy in the world won't make cheap wood the
equivalent of marine ply. I would agree if the marine ply were
Brynzeel. I would disgree when its come to fir marine ply.
Robert Lundy
St. Petersburg, Fla.
PS thanks for having the pics of the Cedar Key messabout on your
website. I'm hoping to bring my finished Windsprint in May of 2000.
"donald hodges" <dhodge-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=799
> As Chuck Leinweber knows, I have been dragging my feet starting thesea
> Tennessee (lots of excuses, but a big part of it is GREAT weather and
> fishing/daysailing opprtunites, but I digress...).
>
> My approach to the project is to get the basic boat together, do some
> trials, then decide on buying the real big-ticket items like 4-strokeengine
> and trailer.choose
>
> Shopping around here, I have found only 3 candidate 3/8 plywoods to
> from:glue,
>
> APA-approved Marine fir: $55 per sheet
>
> I/2 inch off-spec Asian marine ply (some small voids but good
> would be my choice but n/a in 3/8 inch: $42five
>
> Home Depot "Para-ply", a Brazilian birch offered as cabinet
> material, suspect glue but
> very few and small voids: $29
>
> I need 28 sheets, so the cost difference range is about $1000 for this
> experiment.
>
> All I have heard secondhand about paraply is unfavorable. However,
> years ago I built the Glen-L sea kayak using 1/4 paraply, and I haveall over,
> recently "surveyed" the boat after five years. It is epoxy-coated
> with fiberglass taped seams and exterior sheathing on hull only, notdeck.
> It has been outside with a polytarp covering just the cockpitopening, and
> some rain accumulates in the cockpit and stands for weeks at a time.My
> inspection shows no blisters or delamination inside or out, beginningtraces
> of rot in the top ply of the cockpit sole where the wood has checkedunder a
> thin spot in the epoxy or the epoxy coating has been scraped through(these
> are 1/16 or so lines of graying wood along the cracks or scrapes, noraising
> or blistering yet). Otherwise, this boat is very sound.Tennessee
>
> Does this validate paraply enough to put $1000 worth into the
> experiment? Tenn will be trailered and stored under the constructionsheets
> shelter, a much better environment than the kayak.
>
> Here's the plan, and I welcome your comments: I'm going to buy three
> of 1/4 paraply and build a new pirouge or 12 foot skiff, then test theIf it
> scraps (epoxy coated and uncoated) by boiling and/or the dishwasher.
> totally fails, I'll either buy the 1/2 marine ply and build anoverweight
> Tenn or just reconsider the project. If it fails uncoated and passesuncoated,
> coated, I'll probably go ahead with the project. If it passes
> we'll all have a material to consider for trailered/dry storedprojects.
>water.
> I would only use the all-out APA-rated stuff for a boat left in the
>
> Don Hodges,
> who has already survived singlehandedly erecting a 32x20 x 16 high bow
> shelter, so voyaging in a paraply boat would be relatively safe...
>
>
>
>
>
>
Don,
I used paraply in my light schooner - no problems except a few more voids
found after launching. It is well-sealed in epoxy and stores dry.
I just wouldn't use it myself on something as big and complex as a
Tennessee. In a daysailor, you add a rudder and some sails and go sail.
In a cruiser, you're building cabin and windows, furniture, nav station,
(head?, galley?) etc. all on a shaky foundation. Just my opinion.
Gregg
At 10:15 AM 11/10/1999 -0600, you wrote:
I used paraply in my light schooner - no problems except a few more voids
found after launching. It is well-sealed in epoxy and stores dry.
I just wouldn't use it myself on something as big and complex as a
Tennessee. In a daysailor, you add a rudder and some sails and go sail.
In a cruiser, you're building cabin and windows, furniture, nav station,
(head?, galley?) etc. all on a shaky foundation. Just my opinion.
Gregg
At 10:15 AM 11/10/1999 -0600, you wrote:
>Does this validate paraply enough to put $1000 worth into the Tennessee
>experiment? Tenn will be trailered and stored under the construction
>shelter, a much better environment than the kayak.
As Chuck Leinweber knows, I have been dragging my feet starting the
Tennessee (lots of excuses, but a big part of it is GREAT weather and
fishing/daysailing opprtunites, but I digress...).
My approach to the project is to get the basic boat together, do some sea
trials, then decide on buying the real big-ticket items like 4-stroke engine
and trailer.
Shopping around here, I have found only 3 candidate 3/8 plywoods to choose
from:
APA-approved Marine fir: $55 per sheet
I/2 inch off-spec Asian marine ply (some small voids but good glue,
would be my choice but n/a in 3/8 inch: $42
Home Depot "Para-ply", a Brazilian birch offered as cabinet
material, suspect glue but
very few and small voids: $29
I need 28 sheets, so the cost difference range is about $1000 for this
experiment.
All I have heard secondhand about paraply is unfavorable. However, five
years ago I built the Glen-L sea kayak using 1/4 paraply, and I have
recently "surveyed" the boat after five years. It is epoxy-coated all over,
with fiberglass taped seams and exterior sheathing on hull only, not deck.
It has been outside with a polytarp covering just the cockpit opening, and
some rain accumulates in the cockpit and stands for weeks at a time. My
inspection shows no blisters or delamination inside or out, beginning traces
of rot in the top ply of the cockpit sole where the wood has checked under a
thin spot in the epoxy or the epoxy coating has been scraped through (these
are 1/16 or so lines of graying wood along the cracks or scrapes, no raising
or blistering yet). Otherwise, this boat is very sound.
Does this validate paraply enough to put $1000 worth into the Tennessee
experiment? Tenn will be trailered and stored under the construction
shelter, a much better environment than the kayak.
Here's the plan, and I welcome your comments: I'm going to buy three sheets
of 1/4 paraply and build a new pirouge or 12 foot skiff, then test the
scraps (epoxy coated and uncoated) by boiling and/or the dishwasher. If it
totally fails, I'll either buy the 1/2 marine ply and build an overweight
Tenn or just reconsider the project. If it fails uncoated and passes
coated, I'll probably go ahead with the project. If it passes uncoated,
we'll all have a material to consider for trailered/dry stored projects.
I would only use the all-out APA-rated stuff for a boat left in the water.
Don Hodges,
who has already survived singlehandedly erecting a 32x20 x 16 high bow
shelter, so voyaging in a paraply boat would be relatively safe...
Tennessee (lots of excuses, but a big part of it is GREAT weather and
fishing/daysailing opprtunites, but I digress...).
My approach to the project is to get the basic boat together, do some sea
trials, then decide on buying the real big-ticket items like 4-stroke engine
and trailer.
Shopping around here, I have found only 3 candidate 3/8 plywoods to choose
from:
APA-approved Marine fir: $55 per sheet
I/2 inch off-spec Asian marine ply (some small voids but good glue,
would be my choice but n/a in 3/8 inch: $42
Home Depot "Para-ply", a Brazilian birch offered as cabinet
material, suspect glue but
very few and small voids: $29
I need 28 sheets, so the cost difference range is about $1000 for this
experiment.
All I have heard secondhand about paraply is unfavorable. However, five
years ago I built the Glen-L sea kayak using 1/4 paraply, and I have
recently "surveyed" the boat after five years. It is epoxy-coated all over,
with fiberglass taped seams and exterior sheathing on hull only, not deck.
It has been outside with a polytarp covering just the cockpit opening, and
some rain accumulates in the cockpit and stands for weeks at a time. My
inspection shows no blisters or delamination inside or out, beginning traces
of rot in the top ply of the cockpit sole where the wood has checked under a
thin spot in the epoxy or the epoxy coating has been scraped through (these
are 1/16 or so lines of graying wood along the cracks or scrapes, no raising
or blistering yet). Otherwise, this boat is very sound.
Does this validate paraply enough to put $1000 worth into the Tennessee
experiment? Tenn will be trailered and stored under the construction
shelter, a much better environment than the kayak.
Here's the plan, and I welcome your comments: I'm going to buy three sheets
of 1/4 paraply and build a new pirouge or 12 foot skiff, then test the
scraps (epoxy coated and uncoated) by boiling and/or the dishwasher. If it
totally fails, I'll either buy the 1/2 marine ply and build an overweight
Tenn or just reconsider the project. If it fails uncoated and passes
coated, I'll probably go ahead with the project. If it passes uncoated,
we'll all have a material to consider for trailered/dry stored projects.
I would only use the all-out APA-rated stuff for a boat left in the water.
Don Hodges,
who has already survived singlehandedly erecting a 32x20 x 16 high bow
shelter, so voyaging in a paraply boat would be relatively safe...