Re: Gypsy Question
>3. I need more clamps;I too, rarely use clamps.
I prefer to tie pieces together using
string and a cinching 'packers knot'
see:
http://guidinguk.freeservers.com/knots3.html
[left hand illustration in the above URL]
This knot can be easily tied one handed,
and from the 'standing end' of a roll of
string. It cinches real tight too.
The only downside, [if this is a downside,]
is that it can't be easily untied. I just cut it.
I also use Grabber brand drywall screws instead
of clamps sometimes. I take them out after the
glue sets, and re-use them.
More progress on my Teal today. Rudder is done,
skeg done, paint on bottom done, keel strip done [ready
for paint]. Things to do: rest of paint, mast cleat
and thimble, fitting of lee board clamps, install
oar locks. Sprit and snotter. Cutting/rigging of polytarp
sail. Rudder gudgeons/pintles. Go sailing. 22 hours into
it so far [not counting shopping, dreaming, etc.]
Outstanding model!
Seriously, take what you have learned and build the next model as a
mantle (display quality) piece using the full sized plans. It will
help keep your skills honed. It will keep your interest up. And, as
a plus, you can show it off to your friends. I kept mine at work for
a long time. Great conversation piece.
Brent
P.S. My wife claims I have more clamps than common sense. I have to
agree with her.
Seriously, take what you have learned and build the next model as a
mantle (display quality) piece using the full sized plans. It will
help keep your skills honed. It will keep your interest up. And, as
a plus, you can show it off to your friends. I kept mine at work for
a long time. Great conversation piece.
Brent
P.S. My wife claims I have more clamps than common sense. I have to
agree with her.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Mark Lyons" <mlyons2@r...> wrote:
> Thanks to everyone who responded. I also found some answers within
the archives.
> I did order "Building The Instant Boats" from Amazon, but it's
somewhere within the postal system. As for reading an architect's
scale; that's pretty easy. In my "real" life I am one. While I've
looked at other similar size boats that carry more people, they tend
to look ungainly. The "Gypsy" seems to have some classic lines even if
it is not lapstrake construction.
> My wife won't let me start building until our addition is done this
fall, but I'll keep you posted. In the meantime, I modeled up this
from the study plans off of the web.
>http://www.geocities.com/markalyons/gypsy.JPG
>
> Learned several things from the model:
> 1. Elmer's glue does a pretty mean fillet at small scale.
> 2. Start at the middle frames.
> 3. I need more clamps; I doubt scotch tape will work on the large
scale boat.
> 4. Good layout will likely be the first key to success.
> 5. It really is fun.
>
> Thanks again- Mark
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: XROMAD
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 10:02 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Gypsy Question
>
>
> Wow, lots of excellent people with experiences similar to mine....
>
>http://www.tcinternet.net/users/bjschwa/gypsy.htm
>
> I echo the thoughts and Ideas of many who have already relplied.
>
> Details:
> * I added a skeg.
> * I added lead to my rudder blade.
> * I added my fore compartment just ahead of the mast partner.
> * I reinforced my mast partner to hull mounting system.
> * I added my aft compartment 1' behind the last bulkhead
> (the extra thwart I created with that space is wonderfull!)
> * I still have the oarlocks but I don't carry the oars.
> (I have a small folding paddle.
> I use the oars when I want to row.)
> * I have rebuilt my tiller several times. Take my advise, go strong.
> * I run a rope traveler.
> * I'm using a polytarp sail.
> (a dacron sail is on my list for next summer,
> as is a sail track and a wishbone sprit boom.)
> * The first time I sailed her, I swore that she was over-canvased.
> Now that I am getting more sure of myself, I feel like some extra
> power would be very manageable.
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Jack &Lois <jalo@i...> wrote:
> > Delighted to come in from a day of sailing my Gypsy, Raggle-Taggle,
> <snip>
> > But do read Payson's book for the best insight available on both
> these designs. All the best.
> >
> > jeb, being dangerously distracted from Micro restoration, on the
> howling shores of Fundy
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
<snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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>
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>
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>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>My wife won't let me start building until our addition is done thisI have about 8 C-clamps and rarely use them. I do use scotch tape. In
>fall, but I'll keep you posted. In the meantime, I modeled up this
>from the study plans off of the web.
>3. I need more clamps; I doubt scotch tape will work on the large scale boat.
many of Bolger's designs, the sheets of plywood want so badly to be
the boats he's drawn, that the panels fairly well fall into place,
and can be held in alignment by scotch tape. When things need to be
clamped, sheet rock screws and a cordless reversible drill is a
pretty slick way to go. When the joint is set, back out the screws,
fill the holes and glass the panel. You can reuse the screws too;
some of my screws are on their fourth or fifth boat.
While you're waiting on the addition, send your wife away to a spa
for a couple of days and bang out a Surf. It'll do most, if not all
of what a Gyspy will do. And you can uses it this Summer.
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
Thanks to everyone who responded. I also found some answers within the archives.
I did order "Building The Instant Boats" from Amazon, but it's somewhere within the postal system. As for reading an architect's scale; that's pretty easy. In my "real" life I am one. While I've looked at other similar size boats that carry more people, they tend to look ungainly. The "Gypsy" seems to have some classic lines even if it is not lapstrake construction.
My wife won't let me start building until our addition is done this fall, but I'll keep you posted. In the meantime, I modeled up this from the study plans off of the web.
http://www.geocities.com/markalyons/gypsy.JPG
Learned several things from the model:
1. Elmer's glue does a pretty mean fillet at small scale.
2. Start at the middle frames.
3. I need more clamps; I doubt scotch tape will work on the large scale boat.
4. Good layout will likely be the first key to success.
5. It really is fun.
Thanks again- Mark
I did order "Building The Instant Boats" from Amazon, but it's somewhere within the postal system. As for reading an architect's scale; that's pretty easy. In my "real" life I am one. While I've looked at other similar size boats that carry more people, they tend to look ungainly. The "Gypsy" seems to have some classic lines even if it is not lapstrake construction.
My wife won't let me start building until our addition is done this fall, but I'll keep you posted. In the meantime, I modeled up this from the study plans off of the web.
http://www.geocities.com/markalyons/gypsy.JPG
Learned several things from the model:
1. Elmer's glue does a pretty mean fillet at small scale.
2. Start at the middle frames.
3. I need more clamps; I doubt scotch tape will work on the large scale boat.
4. Good layout will likely be the first key to success.
5. It really is fun.
Thanks again- Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: XROMAD
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 29, 2003 10:02 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Gypsy Question
Wow, lots of excellent people with experiences similar to mine....
http://www.tcinternet.net/users/bjschwa/gypsy.htm
I echo the thoughts and Ideas of many who have already relplied.
Details:
* I added a skeg.
* I added lead to my rudder blade.
* I added my fore compartment just ahead of the mast partner.
* I reinforced my mast partner to hull mounting system.
* I added my aft compartment 1' behind the last bulkhead
(the extra thwart I created with that space is wonderfull!)
* I still have the oarlocks but I don't carry the oars.
(I have a small folding paddle.
I use the oars when I want to row.)
* I have rebuilt my tiller several times. Take my advise, go strong.
* I run a rope traveler.
* I'm using a polytarp sail.
(a dacron sail is on my list for next summer,
as is a sail track and a wishbone sprit boom.)
* The first time I sailed her, I swore that she was over-canvased.
Now that I am getting more sure of myself, I feel like some extra
power would be very manageable.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Jack &Lois <jalo@i...> wrote:
> Delighted to come in from a day of sailing my Gypsy, Raggle-Taggle,
<snip>
> But do read Payson's book for the best insight available on both
these designs. All the best.
>
> jeb, being dangerously distracted from Micro restoration, on the
howling shores of Fundy
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Wow, lots of excellent people with experiences similar to mine....
http://www.tcinternet.net/users/bjschwa/gypsy.htm
I echo the thoughts and Ideas of many who have already relplied.
Details:
* I added a skeg.
* I added lead to my rudder blade.
* I added my fore compartment just ahead of the mast partner.
* I reinforced my mast partner to hull mounting system.
* I added my aft compartment 1' behind the last bulkhead
(the extra thwart I created with that space is wonderfull!)
* I still have the oarlocks but I don't carry the oars.
(I have a small folding paddle.
I use the oars when I want to row.)
* I have rebuilt my tiller several times. Take my advise, go strong.
* I run a rope traveler.
* I'm using a polytarp sail.
(a dacron sail is on my list for next summer,
as is a sail track and a wishbone sprit boom.)
* The first time I sailed her, I swore that she was over-canvased.
Now that I am getting more sure of myself, I feel like some extra
power would be very manageable.
http://www.tcinternet.net/users/bjschwa/gypsy.htm
I echo the thoughts and Ideas of many who have already relplied.
Details:
* I added a skeg.
* I added lead to my rudder blade.
* I added my fore compartment just ahead of the mast partner.
* I reinforced my mast partner to hull mounting system.
* I added my aft compartment 1' behind the last bulkhead
(the extra thwart I created with that space is wonderfull!)
* I still have the oarlocks but I don't carry the oars.
(I have a small folding paddle.
I use the oars when I want to row.)
* I have rebuilt my tiller several times. Take my advise, go strong.
* I run a rope traveler.
* I'm using a polytarp sail.
(a dacron sail is on my list for next summer,
as is a sail track and a wishbone sprit boom.)
* The first time I sailed her, I swore that she was over-canvased.
Now that I am getting more sure of myself, I feel like some extra
power would be very manageable.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Jack &Lois <jalo@i...> wrote:
> Delighted to come in from a day of sailing my Gypsy, Raggle-Taggle,
<snip>
> But do read Payson's book for the best insight available on both
these designs. All the best.
>
> jeb, being dangerously distracted from Micro restoration, on the
howling shores of Fundy
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Delighted to come in from a day of sailing my Gypsy, Raggle-Taggle, to find your questions on the charms and failings of Gypsy. I was sailing with a friend who had never sailed before on a lake on the South Mountain in Nova Scotia. Wicked west wind blowing 20 kts. gusting to 30. Just about as hard as I've ever pressed this pretty little boat. It was a really wild ride but she handled it fine. Her best points of sail are from beam reach to beating. She's subject to yawing between broad reach and running. In conditions like today death rolls are a real hazard on a run. The leg-o-mutton sprit rig is easy and safe, except you can't reef them and they can be a bitch to get cleanly furled to the mast in gusty conditions, since you technically can't lower them. Two adults is max in practical terms. More than that and all the fun goes out of the exercise. In Build the New Instant Boats Payson rates Gypsy at 400 lbs. max. load. I'd say that's pushing it. Interestingly June Bug at a foot shorter and narrower has a max. load of 1000 lbs. I've sailed my June Bug (one of my other small Bolger boats) with five people on board in light air. Not something I want to do again, but it actually worked. June bug is not as pretty or as comfortable, but she's more stable and handles much better than Gypsy on a broad reach or run. Racing the two, my wife has consistantly beaten the pants of me with her in the June Bug and me in the Gypsy (though I conceed she is the better sailor). I consider them fairly equal re. building ease, though June Bug will be faster and cheaper to build. You can't go wrong either way in terms of return of pure fun for your efforts. But do read Payson's book for the best insight available on both these designs. All the best.
jeb, being dangerously distracted from Micro restoration, on the howling shores of Fundy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
jeb, being dangerously distracted from Micro restoration, on the howling shores of Fundy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Another option for those who reside in areas where the water never gets
warm, or only does for two days in August is rent a swimming pool. Fritz
Funk of sneakeasy fame, organizes a local splash in where people bring there
boats over to the pool in late winter. This allows tryouts of new
construction and reveals swamping characteristics in a controlled, safe
environment.
If you have any other local small craft builders in your area you can
partner up with them, if not (poor soul) you can team up with some Kayakers.
They are always renting pool space in the winter for roll training.
HJ
mkrauss@...wrote:
% Harrywelshman@...
warm, or only does for two days in August is rent a swimming pool. Fritz
Funk of sneakeasy fame, organizes a local splash in where people bring there
boats over to the pool in late winter. This allows tryouts of new
construction and reveals swamping characteristics in a controlled, safe
environment.
If you have any other local small craft builders in your area you can
partner up with them, if not (poor soul) you can team up with some Kayakers.
They are always renting pool space in the winter for roll training.
HJ
mkrauss@...wrote:
> Jamie, thank you for the informative reply. You are exactly right_ _ _ _ _
> that I ought to dump her on a warm day. When I do, I may be
> pleasantly surprised how well her wooden hull stays afloat. I will
> take your advice and experiment with inner tubes, eventually
> investing in the more presentable alternatives you suggested. I like
> your suggestion about olive oil barels - it would give her an
> international feel.
% Harrywelshman@...
Jamie, thank you for the informative reply. You are exactly right
that I ought to dump her on a warm day. When I do, I may be
pleasantly surprised how well her wooden hull stays afloat. I will
take your advice and experiment with inner tubes, eventually
investing in the more presentable alternatives you suggested. I like
your suggestion about olive oil barels - it would give her an
international feel.
Please read my next message on another Gypsy topic: adding a
traveler or a bridle for the main sheet in place of the pulley
attached to the rudder head. I would enjoy hearing your views there
too.
that I ought to dump her on a warm day. When I do, I may be
pleasantly surprised how well her wooden hull stays afloat. I will
take your advice and experiment with inner tubes, eventually
investing in the more presentable alternatives you suggested. I like
your suggestion about olive oil barels - it would give her an
international feel.
Please read my next message on another Gypsy topic: adding a
traveler or a bridle for the main sheet in place of the pulley
attached to the rudder head. I would enjoy hearing your views there
too.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Orr, Jamie" <jorr@o...> wrote:
> Hi -- my two bits.
>
> Before I did anything, I would take Gypsy, fully rigged, out on a
nice sunny
> day and dump her. This will let you know just how big a problem
recovery
> could be, and also give you a nice swim. We used to do this
regularly with
> our canoe and practise recoveries.
>
> We sailed a Flying Junior for a week or so once. We dumped this
too, to see
> if we felt comfortable taking small kids out. She floated high on
her side,
> and popped right back up with a push on the centreboard. The self-
bailers
> emptied her out, although we had to go downwind to get enough speed
to make
> them work. The FJ has a double hull, with lots of air space in the
sides as
> well as the ends, I think the side chamber made her float high, so
she took
> in less water. (We never went upside down.)
>
> I think lightly built permanent tanks would be best if you put
access
> hatches in them -- the circular Beckwith type seals well and should
give
> enough ventilation when not sailing. Tanks also make storage
places. They
> would be easier to put into the next boat, though, rather than
> retro-fitting.
>
> There are dinghy flotation bags available, with fabric exteriors
for hard
> wear. I've heard of, but not seen, some longer ones that work as
rollers to
> pull the boat up the beach, and also fit under side decks or seats,
being
> long and sausage shaped. Dinghy bags are expensive, though. Canoe
or kayak
> bags are available in different shapes, should be a bit cheaper,
but I
> haven't seen any with fabric outsides, so would need more care.
>
> Plastic olive oil barrels used to be popular with poverty stricken
white
> water paddlers, as were tubes from car or truck tires. You might
start by
> lashing in a couple of tubes, then dump the boat again and see if
you have
> enough volume. If you want, you can then change to something more
> attractive but with the same volume.
>
> Jamie Orr
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mkrauss@m... [mailto:mkrauss@m...]
> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 10:33 AM
> To:bolger@egroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Gypsy Question
>
>
> When I think of flotation, I think of tanks lashed to the bottom
near
> the mast step and behind the last bulkhead. If wind or water
> conditions threaten a dump, go for big tanks. In light air on a
warm
> day, small tanks may be employed or just left out for more storage
> room. It's what I've been thinking - I have not tried
> this. Has any
> one used such tanks, what materials would you suggest and how large
> should they be?
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
The US Coast Guard publishes a guide for backyard builders that lists
the flotation capacity of air, styrofoam, wood, etc. . . you can check
that for the required information.
I have used luan door skins that are approximately 1/16" thick and
covered them with 2 oz glass cloth. The weight gain is minimal and it
really makes a nice floatation compartment, of course. it you get a
hole in it you will still sink.
DAvid Jost "Boston"
the flotation capacity of air, styrofoam, wood, etc. . . you can check
that for the required information.
I have used luan door skins that are approximately 1/16" thick and
covered them with 2 oz glass cloth. The weight gain is minimal and it
really makes a nice floatation compartment, of course. it you get a
hole in it you will still sink.
DAvid Jost "Boston"
Hi -- my two bits.
Before I did anything, I would take Gypsy, fully rigged, out on a nice sunny
day and dump her. This will let you know just how big a problem recovery
could be, and also give you a nice swim. We used to do this regularly with
our canoe and practise recoveries.
We sailed a Flying Junior for a week or so once. We dumped this too, to see
if we felt comfortable taking small kids out. She floated high on her side,
and popped right back up with a push on the centreboard. The self-bailers
emptied her out, although we had to go downwind to get enough speed to make
them work. The FJ has a double hull, with lots of air space in the sides as
well as the ends, I think the side chamber made her float high, so she took
in less water. (We never went upside down.)
I think lightly built permanent tanks would be best if you put access
hatches in them -- the circular Beckwith type seals well and should give
enough ventilation when not sailing. Tanks also make storage places. They
would be easier to put into the next boat, though, rather than
retro-fitting.
There are dinghy flotation bags available, with fabric exteriors for hard
wear. I've heard of, but not seen, some longer ones that work as rollers to
pull the boat up the beach, and also fit under side decks or seats, being
long and sausage shaped. Dinghy bags are expensive, though. Canoe or kayak
bags are available in different shapes, should be a bit cheaper, but I
haven't seen any with fabric outsides, so would need more care.
Plastic olive oil barrels used to be popular with poverty stricken white
water paddlers, as were tubes from car or truck tires. You might start by
lashing in a couple of tubes, then dump the boat again and see if you have
enough volume. If you want, you can then change to something more
attractive but with the same volume.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From:mkrauss@...[mailto:mkrauss@...]
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 10:33 AM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Gypsy Question
When I think of flotation, I think of tanks lashed to the bottom near
the mast step and behind the last bulkhead. If wind or water
conditions threaten a dump, go for big tanks. In light air on a warm
day, small tanks may be employed or just left out for more storage
room. It's what I've been thinking - I have not tried
this. Has any
one used such tanks, what materials would you suggest and how large
should they be?
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
- no flogging dead horses
- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- stay on topic and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
Before I did anything, I would take Gypsy, fully rigged, out on a nice sunny
day and dump her. This will let you know just how big a problem recovery
could be, and also give you a nice swim. We used to do this regularly with
our canoe and practise recoveries.
We sailed a Flying Junior for a week or so once. We dumped this too, to see
if we felt comfortable taking small kids out. She floated high on her side,
and popped right back up with a push on the centreboard. The self-bailers
emptied her out, although we had to go downwind to get enough speed to make
them work. The FJ has a double hull, with lots of air space in the sides as
well as the ends, I think the side chamber made her float high, so she took
in less water. (We never went upside down.)
I think lightly built permanent tanks would be best if you put access
hatches in them -- the circular Beckwith type seals well and should give
enough ventilation when not sailing. Tanks also make storage places. They
would be easier to put into the next boat, though, rather than
retro-fitting.
There are dinghy flotation bags available, with fabric exteriors for hard
wear. I've heard of, but not seen, some longer ones that work as rollers to
pull the boat up the beach, and also fit under side decks or seats, being
long and sausage shaped. Dinghy bags are expensive, though. Canoe or kayak
bags are available in different shapes, should be a bit cheaper, but I
haven't seen any with fabric outsides, so would need more care.
Plastic olive oil barrels used to be popular with poverty stricken white
water paddlers, as were tubes from car or truck tires. You might start by
lashing in a couple of tubes, then dump the boat again and see if you have
enough volume. If you want, you can then change to something more
attractive but with the same volume.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From:mkrauss@...[mailto:mkrauss@...]
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 10:33 AM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Gypsy Question
When I think of flotation, I think of tanks lashed to the bottom near
the mast step and behind the last bulkhead. If wind or water
conditions threaten a dump, go for big tanks. In light air on a warm
day, small tanks may be employed or just left out for more storage
room. It's what I've been thinking - I have not tried
this. Has any
one used such tanks, what materials would you suggest and how large
should they be?
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
- no flogging dead horses
- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- stay on topic and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
When I read postings regarding increased flotation, I have some
trepidation about sealing compartments fore and aft. I built a Gypsy
about ten years ago primarily for sailing. She sails on Lake
Winnipeg which is often very choppy. I like to unwind her in a stiff
breeze because her light weight makes her a hoot to surf in the
waves. I commonly take on some water when I dip the gunwale or crash
through a breaking wave on a close reach, but the volume is easy to
bail out by hand. Thankfully, luckily, or by virtue of soft rigging
that spills out gusty air, she has never capsized. Yet I know
it's
just a matter of time. One day when I meet the three sisters on the
Lake, my Gypsy will be laid flat, and while I only put in flotation
under the seats in accordance to Bolger's design, I doubt she
will
sit out of the water enough to get underway again.
So, my point is, I share the view of others that she needs more
flotation. My question is what is the best way to add it without
compromising performance or ruining her aesthetics. There is a
balance between the hull weight and the power available from the
sail. The best flotation option would add the least amount of weight
to the hull. It looks like compartmentalizing fore and aft with
decking adds too much weight. And, if I may be so bold, forgive me
for saying so, to my eye, closing in those areas looks sort of
goofy. Most importantly, decking vastly increases the potential for
moisture damage. It's essentially a wooden boat and you can
count on
the finish peeling and the veneers delaminating. I spend plenty of
time repairing checks in the finish time that could have been
spent
sailing. The harder you make it to reach nooks and crannies, the
sooner checks will lead to rot and ultimately to irreparable damage.
Leaving all of the hull surfaces open will facilitate necessary
maintenance and elongate the life of the boat.
When I think of flotation, I think of tanks lashed to the bottom near
the mast step and behind the last bulkhead. If wind or water
conditions threaten a dump, go for big tanks. In light air on a warm
day, small tanks may be employed or just left out for more storage
room. It's what I've been thinking I have not tried
this. Has any
one used such tanks, what materials would you suggest and how large
should they be?
trepidation about sealing compartments fore and aft. I built a Gypsy
about ten years ago primarily for sailing. She sails on Lake
Winnipeg which is often very choppy. I like to unwind her in a stiff
breeze because her light weight makes her a hoot to surf in the
waves. I commonly take on some water when I dip the gunwale or crash
through a breaking wave on a close reach, but the volume is easy to
bail out by hand. Thankfully, luckily, or by virtue of soft rigging
that spills out gusty air, she has never capsized. Yet I know
it's
just a matter of time. One day when I meet the three sisters on the
Lake, my Gypsy will be laid flat, and while I only put in flotation
under the seats in accordance to Bolger's design, I doubt she
will
sit out of the water enough to get underway again.
So, my point is, I share the view of others that she needs more
flotation. My question is what is the best way to add it without
compromising performance or ruining her aesthetics. There is a
balance between the hull weight and the power available from the
sail. The best flotation option would add the least amount of weight
to the hull. It looks like compartmentalizing fore and aft with
decking adds too much weight. And, if I may be so bold, forgive me
for saying so, to my eye, closing in those areas looks sort of
goofy. Most importantly, decking vastly increases the potential for
moisture damage. It's essentially a wooden boat and you can
count on
the finish peeling and the veneers delaminating. I spend plenty of
time repairing checks in the finish time that could have been
spent
sailing. The harder you make it to reach nooks and crannies, the
sooner checks will lead to rot and ultimately to irreparable damage.
Leaving all of the hull surfaces open will facilitate necessary
maintenance and elongate the life of the boat.
When I think of flotation, I think of tanks lashed to the bottom near
the mast step and behind the last bulkhead. If wind or water
conditions threaten a dump, go for big tanks. In light air on a warm
day, small tanks may be employed or just left out for more storage
room. It's what I've been thinking I have not tried
this. Has any
one used such tanks, what materials would you suggest and how large
should they be?
Peter, what a pretty boat. Great job!
- Larry
- Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Pillsbury <peter@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 3:37 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Gypsy Question
> Hi Pete,
>
> I just found this eGroup so this is my first post....
>
> Check out
>
>http://165.121.103.95/gypsy/Gypsy/index.html
>
> for comments and construction photos of a fully decked Gypsy with
> combings and large fore and aft flotation tanks. <snip>
Hi Pete,
I just found this eGroup so this is my first post....
Check out
http://165.121.103.95/gypsy/Gypsy/index.html
for comments and construction photos of a fully decked Gypsy with
combings and large fore and aft flotation tanks. These are easy
modifications to the "stock" plans. You could even add sealed tanks
under the side-seats to reduce the cockpit volume further. I even
considered a false floor for yet more flotation and easier bailing...
The decking also adds a lot of strength to the hull.
I capsized this Gypsy (on purpose!) to see how hard she would be to
bail out and discovered she still held a LOT of water. To be easily
self-rescuable, you'd need to install a self-bailer, IMO.
I've found Gypsy very stable even in planing conditions. I've never
had an accidental capsize.
Bare painted hull including all modifications (Doug Fir AC plywood,
spruce framing, 6oz cloth) weighed in at 160 lbs. A bit heavy to
cartop but doable.
Gypsy is hard to beat for looks, performance, and easy building.
-Peter
I just found this eGroup so this is my first post....
Check out
http://165.121.103.95/gypsy/Gypsy/index.html
for comments and construction photos of a fully decked Gypsy with
combings and large fore and aft flotation tanks. These are easy
modifications to the "stock" plans. You could even add sealed tanks
under the side-seats to reduce the cockpit volume further. I even
considered a false floor for yet more flotation and easier bailing...
The decking also adds a lot of strength to the hull.
I capsized this Gypsy (on purpose!) to see how hard she would be to
bail out and discovered she still held a LOT of water. To be easily
self-rescuable, you'd need to install a self-bailer, IMO.
I've found Gypsy very stable even in planing conditions. I've never
had an accidental capsize.
Bare painted hull including all modifications (Doug Fir AC plywood,
spruce framing, 6oz cloth) weighed in at 160 lbs. A bit heavy to
cartop but doable.
Gypsy is hard to beat for looks, performance, and easy building.
-Peter
Don
Could you get a picture or a diagram up for your sail mods. We will need to be
able to reef under way when we get the three (so far) Cartoppers and one Gypsy
underway next spring. The water temp here (glacier outflow) is such that we need
to lower the capsize risk.
I really appreciate the Gypsy photo's that have appeared. Lots of food for
thought on mods.
Hj
Don H. Reed" wrote:
Could you get a picture or a diagram up for your sail mods. We will need to be
able to reef under way when we get the three (so far) Cartoppers and one Gypsy
underway next spring. The water temp here (glacier outflow) is such that we need
to lower the capsize risk.
I really appreciate the Gypsy photo's that have appeared. Lots of food for
thought on mods.
Hj
Don H. Reed" wrote:
> Hello Pete,% Harrywelshman@...
>
> I found my Gypsy VERY tippy...so I bought and installed a 5/8" ss sail track
> for mast, rigged reefing points in my Polysail, and use the reefing method
> per www.sailrite.com. I also have halyard and snotter run thru blocks on
> mast partner back to cleats on daggerboard trunk. I can do it all without
> having to stand or go f'ward. I also added lead weight in forward edge of
> rudder, near where it curves aft, just to keep it in the water. Run a 1/4"
> line from aft edge of rudder thru fairlead on top of tiller to small cleat
> near my handhold to lift the rudder when beaching.
>
> Standing on dagger brings her up; but, you could almost shake her dry like a
> canoe if it were not for the mast/boom/sail et al...bailing bucket...if you
> can find it after going over.
>
> Don
> -_ _ _ _ _
Hi Pete --
The extra bulkhead is just forward of the mast step -- because other
than somehow boxing off the mast step, you'd lose airtightness where
the mast comes in. So -- just forward of the forward edge of the mast
step, I plunked down a bulkhead, sealed its edges with epoxy putty
and glass, sealed the decking along its top (after gluing a strip of
3/4 X 3/4 running along the top edge of the bulkhead) with silicone
sealant.
The blades of the oars pass through Bulkhead #6 and butt up
against the new bulkhead, pretty much.
Under the decking between the new bulkhead and Bulkhead #6 -- the
non-airtight section -- all around the maststep, I stuffed in as much
grayboard foam as I could fit -- probably a couple of extra cubic
feet of it there, leaving two tunnels through it for the oar blades
to enter.
The new rowing thwart had to be hinged to be able to get the oars
to pass under it. If it was fixed, they couldn't get to a low enough
angle (because the ends bump against the rear bulkhead) to slide
under the seat. You could obviate all that messing around if you go
with the seat design in that "Mid-Atlantic" Gypsy posted in the files
-- full-length airtight seats, no Bulkhead #12. Seems a very elegant
solution, so long as you don't lose hull stiffness without Bulkhead
#12 bracing crossways. Also, build in ventilation hatches for those
airtight spaces -- possible areas of rot otherwise.
As for weight -- I think the original was supposed to weigh about
150 lbs. (?). Mine's probably 170-180 -- just a guess. Still able to
cartop it, but it ain't pretty to watch me grunting and groaning to
heave it up onto the roofrack. My car has a number of new dings on
the trunk from oarlock sockets wacking it, etc. Next year -- a
trailer!
Ask again if anything needs clarification. And go for it! Gypsy's
a great boat.
All best,
Garth
The extra bulkhead is just forward of the mast step -- because other
than somehow boxing off the mast step, you'd lose airtightness where
the mast comes in. So -- just forward of the forward edge of the mast
step, I plunked down a bulkhead, sealed its edges with epoxy putty
and glass, sealed the decking along its top (after gluing a strip of
3/4 X 3/4 running along the top edge of the bulkhead) with silicone
sealant.
The blades of the oars pass through Bulkhead #6 and butt up
against the new bulkhead, pretty much.
Under the decking between the new bulkhead and Bulkhead #6 -- the
non-airtight section -- all around the maststep, I stuffed in as much
grayboard foam as I could fit -- probably a couple of extra cubic
feet of it there, leaving two tunnels through it for the oar blades
to enter.
The new rowing thwart had to be hinged to be able to get the oars
to pass under it. If it was fixed, they couldn't get to a low enough
angle (because the ends bump against the rear bulkhead) to slide
under the seat. You could obviate all that messing around if you go
with the seat design in that "Mid-Atlantic" Gypsy posted in the files
-- full-length airtight seats, no Bulkhead #12. Seems a very elegant
solution, so long as you don't lose hull stiffness without Bulkhead
#12 bracing crossways. Also, build in ventilation hatches for those
airtight spaces -- possible areas of rot otherwise.
As for weight -- I think the original was supposed to weigh about
150 lbs. (?). Mine's probably 170-180 -- just a guess. Still able to
cartop it, but it ain't pretty to watch me grunting and groaning to
heave it up onto the roofrack. My car has a number of new dings on
the trunk from oarlock sockets wacking it, etc. Next year -- a
trailer!
Ask again if anything needs clarification. And go for it! Gypsy's
a great boat.
All best,
Garth
>I am having a little troublepass
> visualizing what you did ahead of the mast. I see that the oars
> through the bulkhead. Is the extra bulkhead you added just aheadof
> that one? I assume from what you said that the bow compartment isyou
> sealed.
>
> I am also a little confused about the rowing thwart. Maybe if I
> study the plans and your pictures I can get a better idea of what
> did in that area.
>
> Do you have any idea of what the finished product weighed after you
> modifications. It doesn't look like you added much weight, but
> certainly some.
>
> Thanks again to everyone for all of the advice.
>
> Pete Staehling
First, thanks to all for the helpful comments.
All this good advice has convinced me that Gypsy is a good choice. I
do plan to add more flotation. I like the idea of adding some
decking and sealed compartments. I am having a little trouble
visualizing what you did ahead of the mast. I see that the oars pass
through the bulkhead. Is the extra bulkhead you added just ahead of
that one? I assume from what you said that the bow compartment is
sealed.
I am also a little confused about the rowing thwart. Maybe if I
study the plans and your pictures I can get a better idea of what you
did in that area.
Do you have any idea of what the finished product weighed after you
modifications. It doesn't look like you added much weight, but
certainly some.
Thanks again to everyone for all of the advice.
Pete Staehling
All this good advice has convinced me that Gypsy is a good choice. I
do plan to add more flotation. I like the idea of adding some
decking and sealed compartments. I am having a little trouble
visualizing what you did ahead of the mast. I see that the oars pass
through the bulkhead. Is the extra bulkhead you added just ahead of
that one? I assume from what you said that the bow compartment is
sealed.
I am also a little confused about the rowing thwart. Maybe if I
study the plans and your pictures I can get a better idea of what you
did in that area.
Do you have any idea of what the finished product weighed after you
modifications. It doesn't look like you added much weight, but
certainly some.
Thanks again to everyone for all of the advice.
Pete Staehling
Buy new ones from Mr. Payson, $40.00.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: JDMST [mailto:jdmst@...]
> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 1:09 PM
> To:bolger@egroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Gypsy plans
>
>
> Hi everyone,
> I'm considering building Gypsy as my first attempted project.
> I'm handy enough with tools, and figure that I've convinced a friend
> to let me use his storage area.
>
> Is Gypsy a good first try project?
>
> I've got an old pole vaulters pole which I think would make a dandy
> mast...any comments?
>
> Would any of the Gypsy builders be interested in selling their
> plans?
>
> Any advice/comments would be very appreciated.
>
> John
> Thanks,
>
> John Staunton
>JDMST@...
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing
> - stay on topic
> - use punctuation
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> - add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
try this:
http://www.egroups.com/files/bolger/Mid-Atl.+Small+Craft+Festival/
Img20.jpg
http://www.egroups.com/files/bolger/Mid-Atl.+Small+Craft+Festival/
Img20.jpg
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, Bruce Fountain <bruce.fountain@m...> wrote:
> There is a line break in the middle of the URL - try cutting
> and pasting the two lines together in your browser
>
> From: R Coy
>
There is a line break in the middle of the URL - try cutting
and pasting the two lines together in your browser
From: R Coy
This email and any files transmitted with it from Mi Services
Group may contain information which is
privileged, confidential and protected from disclosure.
If it is not addressed to you, please immediately contact
nzpostmaster@...and do not use, disclose,
copy, distribute or retain any of it without our authority.
**********************************************************************
and pasting the two lines together in your browser
From: R Coy
> Pardon me for sounding like a maaroon, but I couldn't**********************************************************************
> find the pic you speak of.
> Could you please clarify it's name please?
> Thanks
> Roger
>
> ---pmcrannell@...wrote:
> > Pete,
> >
> > Here's a picture of one guy's solution to all of
> > Gypsy's ills:
> >
> >http://www.egroups.com/files/bolger/Mid-
> > Atl.+Small+Craft+Festival/Img20.jpg
This email and any files transmitted with it from Mi Services
Group may contain information which is
privileged, confidential and protected from disclosure.
If it is not addressed to you, please immediately contact
nzpostmaster@...and do not use, disclose,
copy, distribute or retain any of it without our authority.
**********************************************************************
Pardon me for sounding like a maaroon, but I couldn't
find the pic you speak of.
Could you please clarify it's name please?
Thanks
Roger
---pmcrannell@...wrote:
Do You Yahoo!?
From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer.
http://experts.yahoo.com/
find the pic you speak of.
Could you please clarify it's name please?
Thanks
Roger
---pmcrannell@...wrote:
> Pete,__________________________________________________
>
> Here's a picture of one guy's solution to all of
> Gypsy's ills:
>
>http://www.egroups.com/files/bolger/Mid-
> Atl.+Small+Craft+Festival/Img20.jpg
>
> He sailed her for ten years, built just like the
> plans. Last year,
> he added the foredeck and air tank/seats. She's now
> easy to bail
> after a capsize, and a lot siffer. He said that she
> was pretty
> flexible, before.
>
> He now goes out and stomps all over Lasers, and
> doesn't worry
> about pushing it. He sails on Barnegat Bay, where it
> blows all the
> time. He's tossing around the idea of installing an
> Elvstrom bailer
> to get rid of water.
>
> Take care,
> Pete Reunolds
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@egroups.com, staehpj1@h... wrote:
> > I am thinking of building a Gypsy. I have a
> suitable sail already
> > that is very close to the right dimensions. I am
> wondering about
> how
> > easy she is to right and bail. I will sail under
> conditions where
> I
> > expect to get knocked down once in a while. I
> would assume she
> would
> > be a cinch to right, but tough to get bailed out
> in any chop.
> > Comments?
> >
> > What other designs might I consider. I want to
> use the same sail.
> > It would be nice to be able to car top. It would
> be nice but not
> > mandatory that she would row well. Primary area
> of use is the
> upper
> > Chesapeake Bay and it's tributaries (Middle River
> much of the
> time).
> > She should be easy to build. She will be my
> second building
> project,
> > my first was a Nymph. Self bailing would be a big
> plus.
> >
> > Pete Staehling
>
>
Do You Yahoo!?
From homework help to love advice, Yahoo! Experts has your answer.
http://experts.yahoo.com/
Yes, definitely. It was the first boat I built, and it floated. One
of Bolger's nicest designs, IMHO
I think a pole vaulter's pole would be way too flexible. Making the
mast isn't hard, and the materials are two 16' 2x4s, so not too
expensive either.
Re: plans - Aw, c'mon, Harold Payson is a really nice guy and needs
to eat too. The plans are only $40. See
http://www.instantboats.com/gypsy.htm
If that's too steep, there is a complete set of plans, albeit small
scale, with the Gypsy building instructions in "Build the New Instant
Boats" for $22.95, or you could get the book out of the library, but
if you're that strapped I wouldn't suggest building a boat.
Other advice:
- She really really needs a skeg for rowing.
- Rig a 3- or 4-part downhaul on the tack of the sail. Enough luff
tension is critical, particularly in strong wind.
- More flotation couldn't hurt - see other recent posts about the
Gypsy
- If I had to do it again I'd use 1/2" or 3/4" plywood for the
frames (bulkheads?) and cut them way down so they really look like
frames. It would make construction easier, and wouldn't add much if
any weight.
Have fun. It's a great boat.
of Bolger's nicest designs, IMHO
I think a pole vaulter's pole would be way too flexible. Making the
mast isn't hard, and the materials are two 16' 2x4s, so not too
expensive either.
Re: plans - Aw, c'mon, Harold Payson is a really nice guy and needs
to eat too. The plans are only $40. See
http://www.instantboats.com/gypsy.htm
If that's too steep, there is a complete set of plans, albeit small
scale, with the Gypsy building instructions in "Build the New Instant
Boats" for $22.95, or you could get the book out of the library, but
if you're that strapped I wouldn't suggest building a boat.
Other advice:
- She really really needs a skeg for rowing.
- Rig a 3- or 4-part downhaul on the tack of the sail. Enough luff
tension is critical, particularly in strong wind.
- More flotation couldn't hurt - see other recent posts about the
Gypsy
- If I had to do it again I'd use 1/2" or 3/4" plywood for the
frames (bulkheads?) and cut them way down so they really look like
frames. It would make construction easier, and wouldn't add much if
any weight.
Have fun. It's a great boat.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "JDMST" <jdmst@s...> wrote:
> Hi everyone,
> . . .
> Is Gypsy a good first try project?
>
> I've got an old pole vaulters pole which I think would make a dandy
> mast...any comments?
>
>Would any of the Gypsy builders be interested in selling their
> plans?
>
> Any advice/comments would be very appreciated.
Pete,
Here's a picture of one guy's solution to all of Gypsy's ills:
http://www.egroups.com/files/bolger/Mid-
Atl.+Small+Craft+Festival/Img20.jpg
He sailed her for ten years, built just like the plans. Last year,
he added the foredeck and air tank/seats. She's now easy to bail
after a capsize, and a lot siffer. He said that she was pretty
flexible, before.
He now goes out and stomps all over Lasers, and doesn't worry
about pushing it. He sails on Barnegat Bay, where it blows all the
time. He's tossing around the idea of installing an Elvstrom bailer
to get rid of water.
Take care,
Pete Reunolds
Here's a picture of one guy's solution to all of Gypsy's ills:
http://www.egroups.com/files/bolger/Mid-
Atl.+Small+Craft+Festival/Img20.jpg
He sailed her for ten years, built just like the plans. Last year,
he added the foredeck and air tank/seats. She's now easy to bail
after a capsize, and a lot siffer. He said that she was pretty
flexible, before.
He now goes out and stomps all over Lasers, and doesn't worry
about pushing it. He sails on Barnegat Bay, where it blows all the
time. He's tossing around the idea of installing an Elvstrom bailer
to get rid of water.
Take care,
Pete Reunolds
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, staehpj1@h... wrote:
> I am thinking of building a Gypsy. I have a suitable sail already
> that is very close to the right dimensions. I am wondering about
how
> easy she is to right and bail. I will sail under conditions where
I
> expect to get knocked down once in a while. I would assume she
would
> be a cinch to right, but tough to get bailed out in any chop.
> Comments?
>
> What other designs might I consider. I want to use the same sail.
> It would be nice to be able to car top. It would be nice but not
> mandatory that she would row well. Primary area of use is the
upper
> Chesapeake Bay and it's tributaries (Middle River much of the
time).
> She should be easy to build. She will be my second building
project,
> my first was a Nymph. Self bailing would be a big plus.
>
> Pete Staehling
I built a Gypsy about eleven years ago and sailed her for quite a few
years. She's a great boat, and improves the scenery wherever she
goes (unlike some of Mr. Bolger's designs). Yes, she's easy to right
but floats very low in the water, and is almost impossible to bail
out without a lot more flotation than is shown on the plans. I never
dumped her far from shore, but I don't think I could get back in in
any chop at all. If you're concerned about righting after a
knockdown, best add more flotation. That large empty volume behind
the last bulkhead and ahead of the mast could be enclosed relatively
easily.
I didn't find her particularly tender at all; she puts her chine down
and then stiffens up nicely. If anything, I think she's a little
undercanvassed. With more than one person aboard, she's a bit of a
slug in light air. For rowing, she DESPERATELY needs a small skeg.
As drawn, she likes to rotate about her centerline when rowing a lot
more than she likes to go straight. Adding a skeg like the
cartopper's fixed the problem completely.
years. She's a great boat, and improves the scenery wherever she
goes (unlike some of Mr. Bolger's designs). Yes, she's easy to right
but floats very low in the water, and is almost impossible to bail
out without a lot more flotation than is shown on the plans. I never
dumped her far from shore, but I don't think I could get back in in
any chop at all. If you're concerned about righting after a
knockdown, best add more flotation. That large empty volume behind
the last bulkhead and ahead of the mast could be enclosed relatively
easily.
I didn't find her particularly tender at all; she puts her chine down
and then stiffens up nicely. If anything, I think she's a little
undercanvassed. With more than one person aboard, she's a bit of a
slug in light air. For rowing, she DESPERATELY needs a small skeg.
As drawn, she likes to rotate about her centerline when rowing a lot
more than she likes to go straight. Adding a skeg like the
cartopper's fixed the problem completely.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, staehpj1@h... wrote:
> I am thinking of building a Gypsy. I have a suitable sail already
> that is very close to the right dimensions. I am wondering about
how
> easy she is to right and bail. . .
Hi everyone,
I'm considering building Gypsy as my first attempted project.
I'm handy enough with tools, and figure that I've convinced a friend
to let me use his storage area.
Is Gypsy a good first try project?
I've got an old pole vaulters pole which I think would make a dandy
mast...any comments?
Would any of the Gypsy builders be interested in selling their
plans?
Any advice/comments would be very appreciated.
John
Thanks,
John Staunton
JDMST@...
I'm considering building Gypsy as my first attempted project.
I'm handy enough with tools, and figure that I've convinced a friend
to let me use his storage area.
Is Gypsy a good first try project?
I've got an old pole vaulters pole which I think would make a dandy
mast...any comments?
Would any of the Gypsy builders be interested in selling their
plans?
Any advice/comments would be very appreciated.
John
Thanks,
John Staunton
JDMST@...
Pete --
I built a Gypsy this summer and I had your concerns about recovering
from knockdowns, etc., as I like to sail out away from shore and mess
about in rougher water and higher winds than might be considered
prudent. I built in a lot of extra floatation so I'd be able to self-
rescue in choppy water. I haven't had occasion to test it in that way
yet -- but it looks promising.
The only flaw in the overall Gypsy design, I think -- and it IS the
sweetest, fastest little hull shape you'll ever see -- the only flaw
is that Mr. Bolger wanted to get all of the panels for the side and
bottom and the frames out of four sheets of ply -- hence the bilge
panels and side panels are probably a few inches shy of what would be
optimum. You can see in the plans how the lines for the side panels
and bilge panels nearly graze each other and can't be made much
larger.
If it had sides a few inches higher, the gunwale wouldn't so
easily be put at water-level. Of course, the boat wouldn't look so
sleek and low-down gorgeous, either. . . .
Sometimes I'm tempted to put the lines in Gregg Carlson's
Hullforms program, stretch the sides up a few inches and maybe out an
inch or two, and derive new panel shapes. When you're working with
1/4" luan at $9 a sheet -- who cares if you need two extra sheets?
Anyway -- feels like blasphemy to suggest altering a PCB design, but
these wicked thoughts do occur to me.
My solution for my current boat is next year I'll add a 3" coaming
around the cockpit, with maybe a teeny decking to bring it in from
the edge, so it can lay down a bit in a stiff breeze and stay dry.
Will also help in the event of bailing in rough water -- keeps new
water out as you try to raise the level of the boat.
It's a tiddly boat -- but not necessarily unstable -- that is, the
small flat bottom and broad angled bilges let it rock a lot more than
say, a Junebug or a Windsprint with a full wide flat bottom. But when
the bilge panels go flat in the water, you get a lot of flotation.
Low initial stability -- fairly good reserve stability.
Here's the little writeup I did for Chuck at Duckworks. Hope it's
helpful.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/gypsy/index.htm
I also built a little set of removable, stowable wheels (which mount
via the CB slot) to cart the boat around -- I'll have pictures
developed tomorrow and will post them to the files.
All best,
Garth
I built a Gypsy this summer and I had your concerns about recovering
from knockdowns, etc., as I like to sail out away from shore and mess
about in rougher water and higher winds than might be considered
prudent. I built in a lot of extra floatation so I'd be able to self-
rescue in choppy water. I haven't had occasion to test it in that way
yet -- but it looks promising.
The only flaw in the overall Gypsy design, I think -- and it IS the
sweetest, fastest little hull shape you'll ever see -- the only flaw
is that Mr. Bolger wanted to get all of the panels for the side and
bottom and the frames out of four sheets of ply -- hence the bilge
panels and side panels are probably a few inches shy of what would be
optimum. You can see in the plans how the lines for the side panels
and bilge panels nearly graze each other and can't be made much
larger.
If it had sides a few inches higher, the gunwale wouldn't so
easily be put at water-level. Of course, the boat wouldn't look so
sleek and low-down gorgeous, either. . . .
Sometimes I'm tempted to put the lines in Gregg Carlson's
Hullforms program, stretch the sides up a few inches and maybe out an
inch or two, and derive new panel shapes. When you're working with
1/4" luan at $9 a sheet -- who cares if you need two extra sheets?
Anyway -- feels like blasphemy to suggest altering a PCB design, but
these wicked thoughts do occur to me.
My solution for my current boat is next year I'll add a 3" coaming
around the cockpit, with maybe a teeny decking to bring it in from
the edge, so it can lay down a bit in a stiff breeze and stay dry.
Will also help in the event of bailing in rough water -- keeps new
water out as you try to raise the level of the boat.
It's a tiddly boat -- but not necessarily unstable -- that is, the
small flat bottom and broad angled bilges let it rock a lot more than
say, a Junebug or a Windsprint with a full wide flat bottom. But when
the bilge panels go flat in the water, you get a lot of flotation.
Low initial stability -- fairly good reserve stability.
Here's the little writeup I did for Chuck at Duckworks. Hope it's
helpful.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/articles/gypsy/index.htm
I also built a little set of removable, stowable wheels (which mount
via the CB slot) to cart the boat around -- I'll have pictures
developed tomorrow and will post them to the files.
All best,
Garth
Hello Pete,
I found my Gypsy VERY tippy...so I bought and installed a 5/8" ss sail track
for mast, rigged reefing points in my Polysail, and use the reefing method
per www.sailrite.com. I also have halyard and snotter run thru blocks on
mast partner back to cleats on daggerboard trunk. I can do it all without
having to stand or go f'ward. I also added lead weight in forward edge of
rudder, near where it curves aft, just to keep it in the water. Run a 1/4"
line from aft edge of rudder thru fairlead on top of tiller to small cleat
near my handhold to lift the rudder when beaching.
Standing on dagger brings her up; but, you could almost shake her dry like a
canoe if it were not for the mast/boom/sail et al...bailing bucket...if you
can find it after going over.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From:staehpj1@...<staehpj1@...>
To:bolger@egroups.com<bolger@egroups.com>
Date: Thursday, November 02, 2000 11:17 AM
Subject: [bolger] Gypsy Question
I found my Gypsy VERY tippy...so I bought and installed a 5/8" ss sail track
for mast, rigged reefing points in my Polysail, and use the reefing method
per www.sailrite.com. I also have halyard and snotter run thru blocks on
mast partner back to cleats on daggerboard trunk. I can do it all without
having to stand or go f'ward. I also added lead weight in forward edge of
rudder, near where it curves aft, just to keep it in the water. Run a 1/4"
line from aft edge of rudder thru fairlead on top of tiller to small cleat
near my handhold to lift the rudder when beaching.
Standing on dagger brings her up; but, you could almost shake her dry like a
canoe if it were not for the mast/boom/sail et al...bailing bucket...if you
can find it after going over.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From:staehpj1@...<staehpj1@...>
To:bolger@egroups.com<bolger@egroups.com>
Date: Thursday, November 02, 2000 11:17 AM
Subject: [bolger] Gypsy Question
>I am thinking of building a Gypsy. I have a suitable sail already
>that is very close to the right dimensions. I am wondering about how
>easy she is to right and bail. I will sail under conditions where I
>expect to get knocked down once in a while. I would assume she would
>be a cinch to right, but tough to get bailed out in any chop.
>Comments?
>
>What other designs might I consider. I want to use the same sail.
>It would be nice to be able to car top. It would be nice but not
>mandatory that she would row well. Primary area of use is the upper
>Chesapeake Bay and it's tributaries (Middle River much of the time).
>She should be easy to build. She will be my second building project,
>my first was a Nymph. Self bailing would be a big plus.
>
>Pete Staehling
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing
>- stay on topic
>- use punctuation
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
>- add some content: send "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
>
>
I am thinking of building a Gypsy. I have a suitable sail already
that is very close to the right dimensions. I am wondering about how
easy she is to right and bail. I will sail under conditions where I
expect to get knocked down once in a while. I would assume she would
be a cinch to right, but tough to get bailed out in any chop.
Comments?
What other designs might I consider. I want to use the same sail.
It would be nice to be able to car top. It would be nice but not
mandatory that she would row well. Primary area of use is the upper
Chesapeake Bay and it's tributaries (Middle River much of the time).
She should be easy to build. She will be my second building project,
my first was a Nymph. Self bailing would be a big plus.
Pete Staehling
that is very close to the right dimensions. I am wondering about how
easy she is to right and bail. I will sail under conditions where I
expect to get knocked down once in a while. I would assume she would
be a cinch to right, but tough to get bailed out in any chop.
Comments?
What other designs might I consider. I want to use the same sail.
It would be nice to be able to car top. It would be nice but not
mandatory that she would row well. Primary area of use is the upper
Chesapeake Bay and it's tributaries (Middle River much of the time).
She should be easy to build. She will be my second building project,
my first was a Nymph. Self bailing would be a big plus.
Pete Staehling