[bolger] Re: Circular saw
By far the most common size of circular saw here is 7-1/4" blade. These cut
plywood very well and can cut gentle curves. Use a blade intended for
plywood (many teeth) and set the depth of cut so that the blade protrudes
through the plywood by no more than 1/4".
There are smaller saws intended for plywood and trim work, but they'd be no
good at all for heavier work.
pippobianco@...wrote:
plywood very well and can cut gentle curves. Use a blade intended for
plywood (many teeth) and set the depth of cut so that the blade protrudes
through the plywood by no more than 1/4".
There are smaller saws intended for plywood and trim work, but they'd be no
good at all for heavier work.
pippobianco@...wrote:
> Dear all - I'm willing to buy an hand held circular saw (any
> boatbuilding book recommends it as one of the best tools) but I can't
> decide which one to choose. I've located a nice Black and Decker (all
> metal construction) direct drive sidewinder with a 9" diameter blade,
> rip fence and bevel scale, which sells for the equivalent of 120 US$.
> For 100 $ I could buy a Bosch with a significantly smaller blade (40 mm
> = 1.5" cut depth max). I doubt that any of those would be really good
> in cutting plywood with respect to my jigsaw. True, it gives somehow
> wobbly edges, but it is much lighter and it's easy to look at the blade
> while cutting. My impression is that a big circular saw would be ok to
> deal with straight cuts on thick stock, but cutting thin plywood would
> need a very small circular saw (say, 3" or 4" dia. blade). Any
> thoughts? Thanks - Pippo
>
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Hello Pippo and Group
I use a 7 1/4 inch saw to do 90% of my plywood cutting, even the curves. Two mistakes I made for a long time were to use a jigsaw (wobbly lines) and to try and cut to the line (always, always cut outside the line and shave the last bit off with a plane or spokeshave for inside curves). I set my skilsaw to the minimum depth necesary to penetrate the ply as this allows tighter curves to be followed.
Regards - Foster
----------
From:pippobianco@...
Sent: Sunday, 8 August 1999 8:55 pm
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Circular saw
Dear all - I'm willing to buy an hand held circular saw (any
boatbuilding book recommends it as one of the best tools) but I can't
decide which one to choose. I've located a nice Black and Decker (all
metal construction) direct drive sidewinder with a 9" diameter blade,
rip fence and bevel scale, which sells for the equivalent of 120 US$.
For 100 $ I could buy a Bosch with a significantly smaller blade (40 mm
= 1.5" cut depth max). I doubt that any of those would be really good
in cutting plywood with respect to my jigsaw. True, it gives somehow
wobbly edges, but it is much lighter and it's easy to look at the blade
while cutting. My impression is that a big circular saw would be ok to
deal with straight cuts on thick stock, but cutting thin plywood would
need a very small circular saw (say, 3" or 4" dia. blade). Any
thoughts? Thanks - Pippo
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I use a 7 1/4 inch saw to do 90% of my plywood cutting, even the curves. Two mistakes I made for a long time were to use a jigsaw (wobbly lines) and to try and cut to the line (always, always cut outside the line and shave the last bit off with a plane or spokeshave for inside curves). I set my skilsaw to the minimum depth necesary to penetrate the ply as this allows tighter curves to be followed.
Regards - Foster
----------
From:pippobianco@...
Sent: Sunday, 8 August 1999 8:55 pm
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Circular saw
Dear all - I'm willing to buy an hand held circular saw (any
boatbuilding book recommends it as one of the best tools) but I can't
decide which one to choose. I've located a nice Black and Decker (all
metal construction) direct drive sidewinder with a 9" diameter blade,
rip fence and bevel scale, which sells for the equivalent of 120 US$.
For 100 $ I could buy a Bosch with a significantly smaller blade (40 mm
= 1.5" cut depth max). I doubt that any of those would be really good
in cutting plywood with respect to my jigsaw. True, it gives somehow
wobbly edges, but it is much lighter and it's easy to look at the blade
while cutting. My impression is that a big circular saw would be ok to
deal with straight cuts on thick stock, but cutting thin plywood would
need a very small circular saw (say, 3" or 4" dia. blade). Any
thoughts? Thanks - Pippo
------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Pippo,
Here's what I do: Buy a saw with a big blade and the deepest depth you can
get, and spend a little bit on a high-quality carbide with a good set to
the teeth. I wouldn't try fighting with a thin veneer blade. As with a
table saw, set the blade just past the thickness of the material - about
1/8"/4 mm. The set of the teeth will cut a kerf plenty wide for any boat
building radius I've seen. (On 1/4" material, with a good blade, you can
just about spin the saw in place.)
I've used the battery-powered 3-4" saws. Just like you think, the power is
marginal and short-lived, and the blades are very thin to conserve power
reaulting in no kerf to work your saw in. And, the limited depth is an
annoyance any time you want to cut lumber.
You'll get a much better part than by jig saw. By the way, I use a Dewalt;
a great saw, generally better than the B&D. But, they're ALL good...
Gregg
At 01:55 AM 8/8/99 -0700, you wrote:
Here's what I do: Buy a saw with a big blade and the deepest depth you can
get, and spend a little bit on a high-quality carbide with a good set to
the teeth. I wouldn't try fighting with a thin veneer blade. As with a
table saw, set the blade just past the thickness of the material - about
1/8"/4 mm. The set of the teeth will cut a kerf plenty wide for any boat
building radius I've seen. (On 1/4" material, with a good blade, you can
just about spin the saw in place.)
I've used the battery-powered 3-4" saws. Just like you think, the power is
marginal and short-lived, and the blades are very thin to conserve power
reaulting in no kerf to work your saw in. And, the limited depth is an
annoyance any time you want to cut lumber.
You'll get a much better part than by jig saw. By the way, I use a Dewalt;
a great saw, generally better than the B&D. But, they're ALL good...
Gregg
At 01:55 AM 8/8/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Dear all - I'm willing to buy an hand held circular saw (any
>boatbuilding book recommends it as one of the best tools) but I can't
>decide which one to choose. I've located a nice Black and Decker (all
>metal construction) direct drive sidewinder with a 9" diameter blade,
>rip fence and bevel scale, which sells for the equivalent of 120 US$.
>For 100 $ I could buy a Bosch with a significantly smaller blade (40 mm
>= 1.5" cut depth max). I doubt that any of those would be really good
>in cutting plywood with respect to my jigsaw. True, it gives somehow
>wobbly edges, but it is much lighter and it's easy to look at the blade
>while cutting. My impression is that a big circular saw would be ok to
>deal with straight cuts on thick stock, but cutting thin plywood would
>need a very small circular saw (say, 3" or 4" dia. blade). Any
>thoughts? Thanks - Pippo
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Click Here to apply for a NextCard Internet Visa and start earning
>FREE travel in HALF the time with the NextCard Rew@rds Program.
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>
>
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>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
>
>
Hello Pippo and all;
I think that if one wants to scarph 1/4 inch ply, than a full size blade
will be needed. I seem to recall the blade will have to be over 7". I am
looking at battery powered circular saws with much smaller blades, the
smallest being about 3 1/2" (Craftsman) with 5" also being available
(DeWalt) and I wonder if the small blade size will result in better ability
to easily cut the curvature of (for example) the sheer line in the 1/4 or 6mm
ply that is so often called for in Bolger designed boats. The DeWalt is full
featured, the Craftsman does not have adjustable angle cutting. Regards,
Warren
I think that if one wants to scarph 1/4 inch ply, than a full size blade
will be needed. I seem to recall the blade will have to be over 7". I am
looking at battery powered circular saws with much smaller blades, the
smallest being about 3 1/2" (Craftsman) with 5" also being available
(DeWalt) and I wonder if the small blade size will result in better ability
to easily cut the curvature of (for example) the sheer line in the 1/4 or 6mm
ply that is so often called for in Bolger designed boats. The DeWalt is full
featured, the Craftsman does not have adjustable angle cutting. Regards,
Warren
Hello,
If you are right handed buy a circular saw with the blade on the left
side. That makes it easy to see the cut line. Porter Cable makes a really
nice one with a 6" blade , called the Saw Boss (Model 345PC). It should
sell for about the same as the Black and Decker. They also make a 7 1/4"
model , but I can't find the model #. These saws weigh very little because
they use some magnesium parts. The thickness of the plywood isn't a
problem if you use a good thin kerf blade with sharp carbide teeth. You may
want 20 or more teeth to reduce chip out, but taping the cut line will help
also.
I taught shop for many years and found the B&D equipment did not hold up
to our constant use by beginners as well as Makita, Bosch, Porter Cable and
lately Dewalt.
Good luck,
Richard
If you are right handed buy a circular saw with the blade on the left
side. That makes it easy to see the cut line. Porter Cable makes a really
nice one with a 6" blade , called the Saw Boss (Model 345PC). It should
sell for about the same as the Black and Decker. They also make a 7 1/4"
model , but I can't find the model #. These saws weigh very little because
they use some magnesium parts. The thickness of the plywood isn't a
problem if you use a good thin kerf blade with sharp carbide teeth. You may
want 20 or more teeth to reduce chip out, but taping the cut line will help
also.
I taught shop for many years and found the B&D equipment did not hold up
to our constant use by beginners as well as Makita, Bosch, Porter Cable and
lately Dewalt.
Good luck,
Richard
> Dear all - I'm willing to buy an hand held circular saw (any
> boatbuilding book recommends it as one of the best tools) but I can't
> decide which one to choose. I've located a nice Black and Decker (all
> metal construction) direct drive sidewinder with a 9" diameter blade,
> rip fence and bevel scale, which sells for the equivalent of 120 US$.
> For 100 $ I could buy a Bosch with a significantly smaller blade (40 mm
> = 1.5" cut depth max). I doubt that any of those would be really good
> in cutting plywood with respect to my jigsaw.
> while cutting. My impression is that a big circular saw would be ok to
> deal with straight cuts on thick stock, but cutting thin plywood would
> need a very small circular saw (say, 3" or 4" dia. blade). Any
> thoughts? Thanks - Pippo
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Click Here to apply for a NextCard Internet Visa and start earning
> FREE travel in HALF the time with the NextCard Rew@rds Program.
>http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/449
>
>
> eGroups.com home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger
>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
Dear all - I'm willing to buy an hand held circular saw (any
boatbuilding book recommends it as one of the best tools) but I can't
decide which one to choose. I've located a nice Black and Decker (all
metal construction) direct drive sidewinder with a 9" diameter blade,
rip fence and bevel scale, which sells for the equivalent of 120 US$.
For 100 $ I could buy a Bosch with a significantly smaller blade (40 mm
= 1.5" cut depth max). I doubt that any of those would be really good
in cutting plywood with respect to my jigsaw. True, it gives somehow
wobbly edges, but it is much lighter and it's easy to look at the blade
while cutting. My impression is that a big circular saw would be ok to
deal with straight cuts on thick stock, but cutting thin plywood would
need a very small circular saw (say, 3" or 4" dia. blade). Any
thoughts? Thanks - Pippo
boatbuilding book recommends it as one of the best tools) but I can't
decide which one to choose. I've located a nice Black and Decker (all
metal construction) direct drive sidewinder with a 9" diameter blade,
rip fence and bevel scale, which sells for the equivalent of 120 US$.
For 100 $ I could buy a Bosch with a significantly smaller blade (40 mm
= 1.5" cut depth max). I doubt that any of those would be really good
in cutting plywood with respect to my jigsaw. True, it gives somehow
wobbly edges, but it is much lighter and it's easy to look at the blade
while cutting. My impression is that a big circular saw would be ok to
deal with straight cuts on thick stock, but cutting thin plywood would
need a very small circular saw (say, 3" or 4" dia. blade). Any
thoughts? Thanks - Pippo