Re: [bolger] Re: cleaning carbeurator
DAve,
I think that is right. As for not being easy, it seems to be to me, but I
don't have much feel for what these things are like for someone who hasn't
been doing it all his life. Maybe a neighbor or friend who is mechanically
gifted can look over your shoulder the first time.
As for getting a spare gasket, that is a safe method, but I find that the
carb usually comes off without damage to the gasket.
Cheers/Don
Be *bold* Dave :-)
I think that is right. As for not being easy, it seems to be to me, but I
don't have much feel for what these things are like for someone who hasn't
been doing it all his life. Maybe a neighbor or friend who is mechanically
gifted can look over your shoulder the first time.
As for getting a spare gasket, that is a safe method, but I find that the
carb usually comes off without damage to the gasket.
Cheers/Don
Be *bold* Dave :-)
Thanks for the detailed answer Carron. I never really winterized the
engine until recently. I have a Shop Manual for Evinrude engines and
it does explain how to take the carb apart though it doesn't look
that easy for a novice like me. Seems like there are a lot of parts
and that I should order a new gasket. I assume that from what you
have told me, once I clean the carb of deposits it will probably run
correctly since everything else is in good order.
engine until recently. I have a Shop Manual for Evinrude engines and
it does explain how to take the carb apart though it doesn't look
that easy for a novice like me. Seems like there are a lot of parts
and that I should order a new gasket. I assume that from what you
have told me, once I clean the carb of deposits it will probably run
correctly since everything else is in good order.
In a message dated 12/06/2000 10:<BR23:<BR11 PM
Eastern Standard,boldav@...writes:
your message where you are mechanically. I'd guess that you aren't a lifelong
"wrench" :-)
The carbs on smaller outboards are really simple devices. "Rebuild' is much
too elegant a word to apply well to the needed work. Disassemble and clean is
a better concept. Get a book with a good exploded drawing and a bowl of some
solvent. Gasoline is effective but dangerous. Lacquer thinner is less
dangerous and still effective. Best is parts store "carburetor cleaner", not
the spray stuff, but the dark liquid you use to soak the parts.
Read the manual and look at the picture until you understand how all the bits
go together. Set yourself a firm plan to have it back together the same day
you start, as there will be much less chance of forgetfulness.
Take the carb off, being careful to save the fibre gasket at the base. Take
all the bits apart, looking carefully at each one and imagining what it will
look like when you "offer it up" for reassembly. Check each hole carefully
for little steel balls and springs. Make notes if you need to. Place all the
small bits in a container of clean solvent.
Clean the body in a separate container of solvent. Take care to clean the
float needle seat and the tips of the needle valves. Blow through every hole,
with your breath if you have no compressor. Do not use wires to clean needle
orifices and jets, though larger passages can be swabbed with pipe cleaners.
Reassemble just as you now know how :-) and remount it. Check the timing with
a static light if you can. I'll bet that it will work. Now you can forgive
the DPO (dopey previous owner) for allowing old gasoline to stay in the carb
bowl all winter long. You will always run the engine dry from now on and will
squirt Marvel Mystery oil in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over a
few times before storing it :-)
Don't know about you, but I find these little tasks among the more enjoyable
parts of boating.
Cheers/Carron
Eastern Standard,boldav@...writes:
> I have a 4 hp long shaft Evinrude that I use on our 15 sailboat, andPlease don't think I'm talking down to you, Boldav. I'm trying to glean from
> I was wondering if I have to rebuild the carb
your message where you are mechanically. I'd guess that you aren't a lifelong
"wrench" :-)
The carbs on smaller outboards are really simple devices. "Rebuild' is much
too elegant a word to apply well to the needed work. Disassemble and clean is
a better concept. Get a book with a good exploded drawing and a bowl of some
solvent. Gasoline is effective but dangerous. Lacquer thinner is less
dangerous and still effective. Best is parts store "carburetor cleaner", not
the spray stuff, but the dark liquid you use to soak the parts.
Read the manual and look at the picture until you understand how all the bits
go together. Set yourself a firm plan to have it back together the same day
you start, as there will be much less chance of forgetfulness.
Take the carb off, being careful to save the fibre gasket at the base. Take
all the bits apart, looking carefully at each one and imagining what it will
look like when you "offer it up" for reassembly. Check each hole carefully
for little steel balls and springs. Make notes if you need to. Place all the
small bits in a container of clean solvent.
Clean the body in a separate container of solvent. Take care to clean the
float needle seat and the tips of the needle valves. Blow through every hole,
with your breath if you have no compressor. Do not use wires to clean needle
orifices and jets, though larger passages can be swabbed with pipe cleaners.
Reassemble just as you now know how :-) and remount it. Check the timing with
a static light if you can. I'll bet that it will work. Now you can forgive
the DPO (dopey previous owner) for allowing old gasoline to stay in the carb
bowl all winter long. You will always run the engine dry from now on and will
squirt Marvel Mystery oil in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over a
few times before storing it :-)
Don't know about you, but I find these little tasks among the more enjoyable
parts of boating.
Cheers/Carron
I have a 4 hp long shaft Evinrude that I use on our 15 sailboat, and
I was wondering if I have to rebuild the carb in order to clean the
low speed jet. I have tried the usual carb cleaners and the engine
still idles poorly or shuts down when I go quickly from high to low
throttle. Any ideas out there?
I was wondering if I have to rebuild the carb in order to clean the
low speed jet. I have tried the usual carb cleaners and the engine
still idles poorly or shuts down when I go quickly from high to low
throttle. Any ideas out there?