Re: [bolger] Re: Gypsy question: add a traveler
Fellas, I have to disagree here. Having a few more years than many, I have
done the Carpul Tunnel surgery on both hands (to great effect!), and it has
made me aware of the needless strain in many places. Spend twenty bucks and
throw a couple pullies in the system! Every line added halves the strain.
You will still be able to let go in a flash. The only drawback is in that
accidental jibe (probably I am the only one who does this anyhow...) when if
you haul in the sheets as fast as you can, you can let it out slowly after
it decapitates you. With a little mechanical advantage, you will have to
haul faster.
Otherwise, you'll be tending the sheets like the big boys, and getting less
fatigued in the process.
Jim
Peter Vanderwaart wrote:
done the Carpul Tunnel surgery on both hands (to great effect!), and it has
made me aware of the needless strain in many places. Spend twenty bucks and
throw a couple pullies in the system! Every line added halves the strain.
You will still be able to let go in a flash. The only drawback is in that
accidental jibe (probably I am the only one who does this anyhow...) when if
you haul in the sheets as fast as you can, you can let it out slowly after
it decapitates you. With a little mechanical advantage, you will have to
haul faster.
Otherwise, you'll be tending the sheets like the big boys, and getting less
fatigued in the process.
Jim
Peter Vanderwaart wrote:
> > Perhaps I should not make any changes from a design
> > where my hand strength is the weakest link.
>
> One of the Mystic Seaport staff (Rob Pittaway, if I remember the name
> correctly) said of a particular small boat (not a Gypsy) that it was
> safe for his son because 'he was not strong enough to capsize it,'
> meaning, I belive, that the sheet would be pulled from his hand
> before the boat went over.
>
> > Nevertheless, I will employ suggestions that move the main sheet
> > block off the rudder head a placement I consider to be flawed. >
> > And a fairlead/cam cleat boy, that's tempting.
>
> I think the sheet system of Gypsy is one of Bolger's over-crude
> creations. I don't like having the sheet on the rudder head of a
> boat, at least in part because I don't like having the pull of the
> sheet affect what the helm feels like. Of course, any cam cleat must
> be arranges so it can be freed INSTANTLY.
>
> Alternatives to the cam cleat are (1) a snubbing 'winch' or horn
> cleat to run the sheet around without actually cleating it to ease
> the strain, and (2) a ratchet block.
>
> Peter
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
see below
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, jboatguy@c... wrote:
snip
>
> And don't be misled by those 'thin spars'. They are as strong as
> they need to be, and by a good margin. They'll bend but, if built
> reasonably close to design, and from decent wood, they won't break.
> Same with the hull.
I think this is the same rig as on Brick. Much stronger than it looks,
and our mast has little knots in it.
Wood, on a per weight basis, is stronger than
> steel. Read Dave Gerr's 'The Nature of Boats' if you don't believe
> that. Let me quote from pg 347:
>
> "Amazingly--and contrary to everything you've probably read and
heard-
> -wood is structurally far more efficient than any of the building
> materials known anywhere! It's even more efficient than titanium and
> advanced graphite fiber and Spectra composites. In other words--all
> things being equal--you can build a lighter structure out of wood
> than of anything else, for the same stiffness."
>
snip
Well, that's only if you don't use the other materials properly. A
carbon/foam or carbon/honeycomb sandwich is going to be far more
"efficient". Wood's advantage is that it's not very dense, so you can
build up a thick section without a lot of weight, and without
bothering with complicated sandwiches or hollow shapes. FOr that
purpose it's very good. It's also very easy to taper so you don't have
any extra material where you don't want it. Of course if you're trying
to build up a section to get strength, then your best bet is balsa
wood, so there is a point where it gets ridiculous. FOr instance, a
balsa mast 3.35" square might weigh around the same as a spruce one 2"
square, but would be something like 1.8X as strong(and 3X as stiff).
Of course you'd have a hell of a time coming up with a step that
didn't crush it.....
Above calculation based on numbers from:
http://www.bomarc.com/Misc/interesting_facts_about_balsa_wo.htmusing
10 lb. balsa. If they're wrong, I'm wrong, but you get the idea. If
the quote above was true as written, you'd see a lot of wood in
spacecraft and other hi tech, cost is no object applications.
From reading your comments about sheeting, and possibly breaking the
rig, I can't help thinking that you have a misunderstanding about the
sprit boom rig.
The sprit boom doesn't need a traveler because the sheet is not
needed to provide down force on the boom to minimize sail twist.
That's what the snotter, and the geometry between the boom/foot does
for you. The sheet is just needed to move the boom in and out, and
it should actually be arranged to *minimize* the downforce it gives
to the boom, if for no other reason than to make it easier to sheet.
And don't be misled by those 'thin spars'. They are as strong as
they need to be, and by a good margin. They'll bend but, if built
reasonably close to design, and from decent wood, they won't break.
Same with the hull. Wood, on a per weight basis, is stronger than
steel. Read Dave Gerr's 'The Nature of Boats' if you don't believe
that. Let me quote from pg 347:
"Amazingly--and contrary to everything you've probably read and heard-
-wood is structurally far more efficient than any of the building
materials known anywhere! It's even more efficient than titanium and
advanced graphite fiber and Spectra composites. In other words--all
things being equal--you can build a lighter structure out of wood
than of anything else, for the same stiffness."
The specific wood Gerr used for the analysis in that chapter (47) is
Douglas Fir, which is probably exactly what your mast is made of.
Of course all things aren't 'equal' and there are deficiencies to
wood that make it less than ideal, or even useless, for many
applications, but the point is, Gypsy is a lot stronger than I think
you give her credit for. She is not a delicate boat. If she's built
to specs with decent material you're not going to seriously break her
with that rig, and it doesn't matter what mechanial advantage you
build into the sheet.
As far as knowing what conditions she can handle, it seems to me that
that's purely a matter of experience. There is no set rule. When I
first started sailing my tiddly Cartoppers I was a nervous puppy in
anything about 10-12 kts or over, especially downwind, to the point
where I'd 'wear ship' (is that the term?) rather than gybe! After 2
years sailing them 10-12 seems nothing more than a good sailing
breeze to me. I've only dumped them twice, both times when I hit
mud, hard, going downwind in a breeze of wind. (I *NEVER* cleat the
sheet!, not in the nervous breezes of the CA Delta!).
I once dropped one of my Cartoppers from the roof of my car.
Cartopper got a tiny scratch on her gunwale, and chine. My car's
right taillight was all but totaled (it's still all but totalled,
they don't make taillights for '72 Volvos anymore!).
Good sailing (when the weather breaks!) John
rig, I can't help thinking that you have a misunderstanding about the
sprit boom rig.
The sprit boom doesn't need a traveler because the sheet is not
needed to provide down force on the boom to minimize sail twist.
That's what the snotter, and the geometry between the boom/foot does
for you. The sheet is just needed to move the boom in and out, and
it should actually be arranged to *minimize* the downforce it gives
to the boom, if for no other reason than to make it easier to sheet.
And don't be misled by those 'thin spars'. They are as strong as
they need to be, and by a good margin. They'll bend but, if built
reasonably close to design, and from decent wood, they won't break.
Same with the hull. Wood, on a per weight basis, is stronger than
steel. Read Dave Gerr's 'The Nature of Boats' if you don't believe
that. Let me quote from pg 347:
"Amazingly--and contrary to everything you've probably read and heard-
-wood is structurally far more efficient than any of the building
materials known anywhere! It's even more efficient than titanium and
advanced graphite fiber and Spectra composites. In other words--all
things being equal--you can build a lighter structure out of wood
than of anything else, for the same stiffness."
The specific wood Gerr used for the analysis in that chapter (47) is
Douglas Fir, which is probably exactly what your mast is made of.
Of course all things aren't 'equal' and there are deficiencies to
wood that make it less than ideal, or even useless, for many
applications, but the point is, Gypsy is a lot stronger than I think
you give her credit for. She is not a delicate boat. If she's built
to specs with decent material you're not going to seriously break her
with that rig, and it doesn't matter what mechanial advantage you
build into the sheet.
As far as knowing what conditions she can handle, it seems to me that
that's purely a matter of experience. There is no set rule. When I
first started sailing my tiddly Cartoppers I was a nervous puppy in
anything about 10-12 kts or over, especially downwind, to the point
where I'd 'wear ship' (is that the term?) rather than gybe! After 2
years sailing them 10-12 seems nothing more than a good sailing
breeze to me. I've only dumped them twice, both times when I hit
mud, hard, going downwind in a breeze of wind. (I *NEVER* cleat the
sheet!, not in the nervous breezes of the CA Delta!).
I once dropped one of my Cartoppers from the roof of my car.
Cartopper got a tiny scratch on her gunwale, and chine. My car's
right taillight was all but totaled (it's still all but totalled,
they don't make taillights for '72 Volvos anymore!).
Good sailing (when the weather breaks!) John
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, mkrauss@m... wrote:
> Thank you for replies to the traveler question. They are very
> enlightening. The most thought provoking point, I think, was
offered
> by Peter who warns against modifications that will overpower the
> rigging. Right now there is a balance between how much the wind
can
> pull on the rig before the sheet slips from my hand. The whole set-
> up is as strong as it's weakest link and I think that on my Gypsy,
my
> hand strength is the chink in the armor. When I consider Ann's
> suggested two-part mainsheet, I am worried that it will enable me
to
> apply more force than my thin spars can support. The top portion
of
> the spar is very tapered and the materials are lumber yard,
> construction grade quality, selected with adherence to Dynamite
> Payson's penchant for frugality. If I add a traveler and some
blocks
> and upgrade the mast I may need to add a forestay and shrouds.
Would
> I also need to reinforce the mast step? Where does it end? It's
all
> comes down to a question of balancing form over function. I
believe
> the Gypsy is a delicate boat that could quickly become tender in a
> stiff breeze. Perhaps I should not make any changes from a design
> where my hand strength is the weakest link. I should question my
> motives for inquiring about rigging modifications. I think I just
> want to increase performance (read speed). I should accept the
Gypsy
> for what she is and not be disappointed that she is not a
performance
> sailing craft with a hull designed for planing and a rig
> necessitating a trapeze. She's a fair weather friend.
> Nevertheless, I will employ suggestions that move the main sheet
> block off the rudder head a placement I consider to be flawed.
And
> a fairlead/cam cleat boy, that's tempting.
I think it depends on crew weight and agility, and the size and shape
of the waves. I'm not very agile, but at 6'3" and 250
lbs I make pretty good ballast for a boat as light as the Gypsy. I
sailed her mostly on lakes in Minnesota and Wisconsin, where the
waves may be short and choppy, but not large. 25 is about the limit
with me, and that's luffing a little in puffs, leaning pretty far
out but not sitting on the rail. Also, only when the water's warm
enough that the risk of going swimming isn't a problem, although
I've never dumped her close-hauled. I think the boat would stand
more, but it gets too exciting for one of my sailing skill, and you
get awfully wet. I eventually sold her to a considerably smaller
friend, and he says low 20s is as much as he wants to try.
There was a good thread a while back about reefing with a sprit
boom (or was it on the WoodenBoat Forum? don't remember).
You can do it, but it makes a wonderfully simple rig quite a lot more
complicated. Regardless, you should tighten the snotter as quite a
lot in those winds, which bends the mast and flattens the sail nicely.
Keith Wilson
of the waves. I'm not very agile, but at 6'3" and 250
lbs I make pretty good ballast for a boat as light as the Gypsy. I
sailed her mostly on lakes in Minnesota and Wisconsin, where the
waves may be short and choppy, but not large. 25 is about the limit
with me, and that's luffing a little in puffs, leaning pretty far
out but not sitting on the rail. Also, only when the water's warm
enough that the risk of going swimming isn't a problem, although
I've never dumped her close-hauled. I think the boat would stand
more, but it gets too exciting for one of my sailing skill, and you
get awfully wet. I eventually sold her to a considerably smaller
friend, and he says low 20s is as much as he wants to try.
There was a good thread a while back about reefing with a sprit
boom (or was it on the WoodenBoat Forum? don't remember).
You can do it, but it makes a wonderfully simple rig quite a lot more
complicated. Regardless, you should tighten the snotter as quite a
lot in those winds, which bends the mast and flattens the sail nicely.
Keith Wilson
>speed?
> Come to think of it, what do you think is the Gypsy's design
> Specifically, I mean to ask, at what wind speed does she becomethe
> overpowered so that measures must be taken to bleed air by either
> twisting the sail, or letting out the main, or heading down from
> optimal close-hauled point of sail because she heels too much. Isquestion
> there a better way to describe being over powered? Maybe my
> should be: up to at what wind speed do you feel comfortablesailing
> your Gypsy? I appreciate that this is a very subjective questionwater
> that may need to take into account varying conditions, such as
> temperature, fetch for the waves in your area, and the character of
> your winds be they either gusty or consistent.
> I suggest that you deadend the sheet on the rudderhead, lead itthrough a
> light block on the end of the boom...With respect to my quibble about the sheet affecting the feel of the
tiller, the closer the attachment is to the pivot axis (pintle
axis?), the less it will matter.
With respect to cleating a sheet in a small boat, it's fine if you
cleat it when you don't need to (in a drift), and don't cleat it when
you want to (in a blow).
Peter
Keith, you convinced me. Taking into account your experience sailing
your boat with the modifications you suggested, I will make these
changes too. But even then, I will not willingly test my mettle or
my boat's wood in +25 knot winds! I would prefer to face that
challenge in my dinghy made of glass, aluminum and steel.
Come to think of it, what do you think is the Gypsy's design speed?
Specifically, I mean to ask, at what wind speed does she become
overpowered so that measures must be taken to bleed air by either
twisting the sail, or letting out the main, or heading down from the
optimal close-hauled point of sail because she heels too much. Is
there a better way to describe being over powered? Maybe my question
should be: up to at what wind speed do you feel comfortable sailing
your Gypsy? I appreciate that this is a very subjective question
that may need to take into account varying conditions, such as water
temperature, fetch for the waves in your area, and the character of
your winds be they either gusty or consistent.
your boat with the modifications you suggested, I will make these
changes too. But even then, I will not willingly test my mettle or
my boat's wood in +25 knot winds! I would prefer to face that
challenge in my dinghy made of glass, aluminum and steel.
Come to think of it, what do you think is the Gypsy's design speed?
Specifically, I mean to ask, at what wind speed does she become
overpowered so that measures must be taken to bleed air by either
twisting the sail, or letting out the main, or heading down from the
optimal close-hauled point of sail because she heels too much. Is
there a better way to describe being over powered? Maybe my question
should be: up to at what wind speed do you feel comfortable sailing
your Gypsy? I appreciate that this is a very subjective question
that may need to take into account varying conditions, such as water
temperature, fetch for the waves in your area, and the character of
your winds be they either gusty or consistent.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Ann Romanczuk" <kwilson800@a...> wrote:
The Gypsy's not particularly delicate
> at all, IMHO. I was never
> concerned with breaking anything.
>
>> --- Inbolger@egroups.com, mkrauss@m... wrote:
> > the Gypsy is a delicate boat that could quickly become tender in
a
> > stiff breeze. She's a fair weather friend.
A couple of points: I think the main thing that limits Gypsy's
performance is that she's a little undercanvassed. She's
rather a slug in light air, particularly with a load. I think
another 20-30 square feet of sail with reef points would be good.
She will plane nicely in a strong breeze (and, despite the screen
name that results from my wife having signed up for another e-group
using the same e-mail address, I'm not Ann light crew
weight is not a factor here). The Gypsy's not particularly delicate
at all, IMHO. That tapered mast is more than strong enough unless
there are some serious flaws in the wood, and you'll get blown
over long before the mast will break. It'll bend surprisingly,
but that just spills wind from the top of the sail. I've sailed
her in 25+ knots, and although it requires vigilance, I was never
concerned with breaking anything.
A two-part mainsheet won't do any harm at all unless you sheet in
WAY too hard, but you may find you don't need it if you put on a
cam cleat. Now that's something that I think no small boat
should be without; this "never cleat the main" business is
from another era before Messrs. Harken. You can dump the sheet 99%
as fast with a cam cleat as you can when you're just holding it in
your hand, and the sailing is much more pleasant because you don't
have to work as hard. A Hexarachet with a cam cleat is even better,
but that would probably be overkill in this case.
Keith Wilson
performance is that she's a little undercanvassed. She's
rather a slug in light air, particularly with a load. I think
another 20-30 square feet of sail with reef points would be good.
She will plane nicely in a strong breeze (and, despite the screen
name that results from my wife having signed up for another e-group
using the same e-mail address, I'm not Ann light crew
weight is not a factor here). The Gypsy's not particularly delicate
at all, IMHO. That tapered mast is more than strong enough unless
there are some serious flaws in the wood, and you'll get blown
over long before the mast will break. It'll bend surprisingly,
but that just spills wind from the top of the sail. I've sailed
her in 25+ knots, and although it requires vigilance, I was never
concerned with breaking anything.
A two-part mainsheet won't do any harm at all unless you sheet in
WAY too hard, but you may find you don't need it if you put on a
cam cleat. Now that's something that I think no small boat
should be without; this "never cleat the main" business is
from another era before Messrs. Harken. You can dump the sheet 99%
as fast with a cam cleat as you can when you're just holding it in
your hand, and the sailing is much more pleasant because you don't
have to work as hard. A Hexarachet with a cam cleat is even better,
but that would probably be overkill in this case.
Keith Wilson
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, mkrauss@m... wrote:
> Thank you for replies to the traveler question. They are very
> enlightening. The most thought provoking point, I think, was
offered
> by Peter who warns against modifications that will overpower the
> rigging. Right now there is a balance between how much the wind
can
> pull on the rig before the sheet slips from my hand. The whole set-
> up is as strong as it's weakest link and I think that on my Gypsy,
my
> hand strength is the chink in the armor. When I consider Ann's
> suggested two-part mainsheet, I am worried that it will enable me
to
> apply more force than my thin spars can support. The top portion
of
> the spar is very tapered and the materials are lumber yard,
> construction grade quality, selected with adherence to Dynamite
> Payson's penchant for frugality. If I add a traveler and some
blocks
> and upgrade the mast I may need to add a forestay and shrouds.
Would
> I also need to reinforce the mast step? Where does it end? It's
all
> comes down to a question of balancing form over function. I
believe
> the Gypsy is a delicate boat that could quickly become tender in a
> stiff breeze. Perhaps I should not make any changes from a design
> where my hand strength is the weakest link. I should question my
> motives for inquiring about rigging modifications. I think I just
> want to increase performance (read speed). I should accept the
Gypsy
> for what she is and not be disappointed that she is not a
performance
> sailing craft with a hull designed for planing and a rig
> necessitating a trapeze. She's a fair weather friend.
> Nevertheless, I will employ suggestions that move the main sheet
> block off the rudder head a placement I consider to be
flawed.
And
> a fairlead/cam cleat boy, that's tempting.
I don't remember exactly what the rig is, but in 103 Rigs, PCB mentions that
he takes the sheet to the rudder head because it it the highest point
available and the higher, the better a sprit boom will work. Clyde
Peter Vanderwaart wrote:
he takes the sheet to the rudder head because it it the highest point
available and the higher, the better a sprit boom will work. Clyde
Peter Vanderwaart wrote:
> > Perhaps I should not make any changes from a design
> > where my hand strength is the weakest link.
>
> One of the Mystic Seaport staff (Rob Pittaway, if I remember the name
> correctly) said of a particular small boat (not a Gypsy) that it was
> safe for his son because 'he was not strong enough to capsize it,'
> meaning, I belive, that the sheet would be pulled from his hand
> before the boat went over.
>
> > Nevertheless, I will employ suggestions that move the main sheet
> > block off the rudder head a placement I consider to be flawed. >
> > And a fairlead/cam cleat boy, that's tempting.
>
> I think the sheet system of Gypsy is one of Bolger's over-crude
> creations. I don't like having the sheet on the rudder head of a
> boat, at least in part because I don't like having the pull of the
> sheet affect what the helm feels like. Of course, any cam cleat must
> be arranges so it can be freed INSTANTLY.
>
> Alternatives to the cam cleat are (1) a snubbing 'winch' or horn
> cleat to run the sheet around without actually cleating it to ease
> the strain, and (2) a ratchet block.
>
> Peter
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> Perhaps I should not make any changes from a designOne of the Mystic Seaport staff (Rob Pittaway, if I remember the name
> where my hand strength is the weakest link.
correctly) said of a particular small boat (not a Gypsy) that it was
safe for his son because 'he was not strong enough to capsize it,'
meaning, I belive, that the sheet would be pulled from his hand
before the boat went over.
> Nevertheless, I will employ suggestions that move the main sheetI think the sheet system of Gypsy is one of Bolger's over-crude
> block off the rudder head a placement I consider to be flawed. >
> And a fairlead/cam cleat boy, that's tempting.
creations. I don't like having the sheet on the rudder head of a
boat, at least in part because I don't like having the pull of the
sheet affect what the helm feels like. Of course, any cam cleat must
be arranges so it can be freed INSTANTLY.
Alternatives to the cam cleat are (1) a snubbing 'winch' or horn
cleat to run the sheet around without actually cleating it to ease
the strain, and (2) a ratchet block.
Peter
Thank you for replies to the traveler question. They are very
enlightening. The most thought provoking point, I think, was offered
by Peter who warns against modifications that will overpower the
rigging. Right now there is a balance between how much the wind can
pull on the rig before the sheet slips from my hand. The whole set-
up is as strong as it's weakest link and I think that on my Gypsy, my
hand strength is the chink in the armor. When I consider Ann's
suggested two-part mainsheet, I am worried that it will enable me to
apply more force than my thin spars can support. The top portion of
the spar is very tapered and the materials are lumber yard,
construction grade quality, selected with adherence to Dynamite
Payson's penchant for frugality. If I add a traveler and some blocks
and upgrade the mast I may need to add a forestay and shrouds. Would
I also need to reinforce the mast step? Where does it end? It's all
comes down to a question of balancing form over function. I believe
the Gypsy is a delicate boat that could quickly become tender in a
stiff breeze. Perhaps I should not make any changes from a design
where my hand strength is the weakest link. I should question my
motives for inquiring about rigging modifications. I think I just
want to increase performance (read speed). I should accept the Gypsy
for what she is and not be disappointed that she is not a performance
sailing craft with a hull designed for planing and a rig
necessitating a trapeze. She's a fair weather friend.
Nevertheless, I will employ suggestions that move the main sheet
block off the rudder head a placement I consider to be flawed. And
a fairlead/cam cleat boy, that's tempting.
enlightening. The most thought provoking point, I think, was offered
by Peter who warns against modifications that will overpower the
rigging. Right now there is a balance between how much the wind can
pull on the rig before the sheet slips from my hand. The whole set-
up is as strong as it's weakest link and I think that on my Gypsy, my
hand strength is the chink in the armor. When I consider Ann's
suggested two-part mainsheet, I am worried that it will enable me to
apply more force than my thin spars can support. The top portion of
the spar is very tapered and the materials are lumber yard,
construction grade quality, selected with adherence to Dynamite
Payson's penchant for frugality. If I add a traveler and some blocks
and upgrade the mast I may need to add a forestay and shrouds. Would
I also need to reinforce the mast step? Where does it end? It's all
comes down to a question of balancing form over function. I believe
the Gypsy is a delicate boat that could quickly become tender in a
stiff breeze. Perhaps I should not make any changes from a design
where my hand strength is the weakest link. I should question my
motives for inquiring about rigging modifications. I think I just
want to increase performance (read speed). I should accept the Gypsy
for what she is and not be disappointed that she is not a performance
sailing craft with a hull designed for planing and a rig
necessitating a trapeze. She's a fair weather friend.
Nevertheless, I will employ suggestions that move the main sheet
block off the rudder head a placement I consider to be flawed. And
a fairlead/cam cleat boy, that's tempting.
I suggest that you deadend the sheet on the rudderhead, lead it through a
light block on the end of the boom, and then down to a rachet block
somewhere near your feet. This gives you an OK lead, and puts the working
end exactly where it should be. No cam cleat is needed on a rig this
size. If you want both hands free, use your teeth, sit on the sheet, or
step on it. There's almost no strain.
-- Dan Segal
light block on the end of the boom, and then down to a rachet block
somewhere near your feet. This gives you an OK lead, and puts the working
end exactly where it should be. No cam cleat is needed on a rig this
size. If you want both hands free, use your teeth, sit on the sheet, or
step on it. There's almost no strain.
-- Dan Segal
> A traveler/bridle/sheet horse would give no improvement in sailwon't do any harm either.
> control, since the foot of the sail holds the boom down, but it
I once heard Mark Ellis describe how a Nonsuch catboat owner
installed a traveler. With the traveler down, the owner pulled so
hard on the sheet to get the sail in that he broke some of the
hardware. (With the traveler down, the sheet pulls down more than it
pulls in.)
The point is that the sprit rig on Gypsy and the wishbone rig on the
Nonsuch catboats do not put much force on the sheet and the hardware
can be light. If you try to sheet it as you would an ordinary boom,
you increase the sheet force a lot and may overstress some other
component.
Probably on Gypsy, everything is over strong, but the risk is there.
Peter
Tightening the snotter will flatten the sail as much as you could
want. There's not much travel, so it would be easy to set up a multi-
part snotter tackle even a Harken magic box on the front of the
mast would work, if that's not too high-tech. Luff tension is also
critical I'd use a 4-part tack downhaul if I had to do it again.
With variations in snotter and luff tension, you have about as much
control over sail shape as you can get with vang, outhaul, and
cunningham on a "normal sail. Good point in another post about
snotter tension changing as the boom swings, particularly on
the "bad" tack.
I rigged the mainsheet on my Gypsy as follows: it runs from the end
of the boom, through a block on the transom right next to the rudder,
the to a Harken fairlead/cam cleat combination on the centerline of
the aft bulkhead/frame. The block on the transom is close enough to
the rudder so that the sheet doesn't interfere with the tiller, and
the aft bulkhead was cut down to the level of the seats. Works
great. Rigging a two-part mainsheet would be easy, just put a block
with a becket on the transom, and a block on the aft end of the
boom.
A traveler/bridle/sheet horse would give no improvement in sail
control, since the foot of the sail holds the boom down, but it won't
do any harm either.
want. There's not much travel, so it would be easy to set up a multi-
part snotter tackle even a Harken magic box on the front of the
mast would work, if that's not too high-tech. Luff tension is also
critical I'd use a 4-part tack downhaul if I had to do it again.
With variations in snotter and luff tension, you have about as much
control over sail shape as you can get with vang, outhaul, and
cunningham on a "normal sail. Good point in another post about
snotter tension changing as the boom swings, particularly on
the "bad" tack.
I rigged the mainsheet on my Gypsy as follows: it runs from the end
of the boom, through a block on the transom right next to the rudder,
the to a Harken fairlead/cam cleat combination on the centerline of
the aft bulkhead/frame. The block on the transom is close enough to
the rudder so that the sheet doesn't interfere with the tiller, and
the aft bulkhead was cut down to the level of the seats. Works
great. Rigging a two-part mainsheet would be easy, just put a block
with a becket on the transom, and a block on the aft end of the
boom.
A traveler/bridle/sheet horse would give no improvement in sail
control, since the foot of the sail holds the boom down, but it won't
do any harm either.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, mkrauss@m... wrote:
> I am interested if and how others have modified the Gypsy's sprit
> rigged sai . . . . .
Sprit boom rigs work better if the mast rotates, it has nothing to do
with aerodynamics. Because of the sprit geometry (it stays on one
side of the mast, and is thus not on centerline, like a wishbone
would be), the snotter tension varies (if you don't adjust it) from
tack to tack if the mast doesn't rotate. The Gypsy probably would
behave better if it rotated only because of that--you wouldn't need
to adjust it tack to tack if you wanted the same tension. My
experience (soley seat of the pants), is that on the upwind 'bad
tack' Cartopper benifits from easing the snotter, putting slightly
more draft in the sail, so I often end up messing with it tack to
tack anyway (thought I don't have to if I don't want to).
Thanks for the compliments! I sent a copy of the photo to Bolger,
and he wrote back that it was the best picture he had of
Cartopper, 'making knots and trimmed as intended' is what he wrote,
as I remember.
I actually have two of them! I took that photo from my other,
identical boat. That's my daughter with the smile on her face. She
swears she doesn't like sailing, but that day had a smile on her
face the whole time. Maybe it's a teenager thing....
-32C? Oh my God! Brrrrr... I'm afraid I'm a died in the wool
moderate weather type. I spent my childhood in the Northeast US and
Illinois, and always thought I missed real seasons till I spent a
winter in Mass. some years back. I don't mind telling ya, I don't
miss it anymore!
Take care! Bundle up! I'm getting chills just thinking about it!
John....
with aerodynamics. Because of the sprit geometry (it stays on one
side of the mast, and is thus not on centerline, like a wishbone
would be), the snotter tension varies (if you don't adjust it) from
tack to tack if the mast doesn't rotate. The Gypsy probably would
behave better if it rotated only because of that--you wouldn't need
to adjust it tack to tack if you wanted the same tension. My
experience (soley seat of the pants), is that on the upwind 'bad
tack' Cartopper benifits from easing the snotter, putting slightly
more draft in the sail, so I often end up messing with it tack to
tack anyway (thought I don't have to if I don't want to).
Thanks for the compliments! I sent a copy of the photo to Bolger,
and he wrote back that it was the best picture he had of
Cartopper, 'making knots and trimmed as intended' is what he wrote,
as I remember.
I actually have two of them! I took that photo from my other,
identical boat. That's my daughter with the smile on her face. She
swears she doesn't like sailing, but that day had a smile on her
face the whole time. Maybe it's a teenager thing....
-32C? Oh my God! Brrrrr... I'm afraid I'm a died in the wool
moderate weather type. I spent my childhood in the Northeast US and
Illinois, and always thought I missed real seasons till I spent a
winter in Mass. some years back. I don't mind telling ya, I don't
miss it anymore!
Take care! Bundle up! I'm getting chills just thinking about it!
John....
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, mkrauss@m... wrote:
> John, I sure enjoy reading your messages. I will fire off this
quick
> reply before leaving work, and my internet access.
>
> I'm interested, what is the function of a rotating mast in the
> Cartopper? My Gyspy mast is fixed and does not rotate, but the
mast
> in my TASAR does. I understand the purpose in the TASAR is to
> streamline the flow around an aeordynamically tapered mast. Is the
> Cartopper mast tapered to receive this benefit from rotating? Or
> does it rotate to accomodate the dynamics of a sprit rig? My next
> question is, would the Gypsy's rig perform better if her mast
rotated?
>
> Thank you for the reference to the photo. What a bit of eye candy
it
> is to see such a lovely boat moving so nicely on a warm day! It
> warms my heart up here north of the 49th on a -32 Celsius day.
John, I sure enjoy reading your messages. I will fire off this quick
reply before leaving work, and my internet access.
I'm interested, what is the function of a rotating mast in the
Cartopper? My Gyspy mast is fixed and does not rotate, but the mast
in my TASAR does. I understand the purpose in the TASAR is to
streamline the flow around an aeordynamically tapered mast. Is the
Cartopper mast tapered to receive this benefit from rotating? Or
does it rotate to accomodate the dynamics of a sprit rig? My next
question is, would the Gypsy's rig perform better if her mast rotated?
Thank you for the reference to the photo. What a bit of eye candy it
is to see such a lovely boat moving so nicely on a warm day! It
warms my heart up here north of the 49th on a -32 Celsius day.
reply before leaving work, and my internet access.
I'm interested, what is the function of a rotating mast in the
Cartopper? My Gyspy mast is fixed and does not rotate, but the mast
in my TASAR does. I understand the purpose in the TASAR is to
streamline the flow around an aeordynamically tapered mast. Is the
Cartopper mast tapered to receive this benefit from rotating? Or
does it rotate to accomodate the dynamics of a sprit rig? My next
question is, would the Gypsy's rig perform better if her mast rotated?
Thank you for the reference to the photo. What a bit of eye candy it
is to see such a lovely boat moving so nicely on a warm day! It
warms my heart up here north of the 49th on a -32 Celsius day.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, mkrauss@m... wrote:
eyes. If you don't have a deck, I imagine you could use the mast,
one eye per side. Mine run from there to either side of the top of
my c/b trunk, to jam cleats.
As far as the stretch, I really don't notice, probably because I'm
alwasy fooling with them, and because it doesn't matter that much.
It's not a Star or a 49'er! The tensions, all things considered, are
pretty low.
snotter pulls tight and binds the sprit against the mast. In waves
or gusts, the rig bounces...<<
My mast rotates. Does yours? It sounds like it doesn't. With a
rotating mast the whole mast just rotates as the sail and sprit boom
come around. If you rig the snotter as I do, you may not have a
probelm with binding, because there is some limited amount of 'slack'
built into the system no matter how tight your lines are, at least
when using manilla.
I don't have a problem with 'bouncing,' at least not that I've
noticed in 2 years of nearly weekly sailing. In light air it will
somtimes slap the mast when the boat rolls in a wake because I have
the snotter so loose, but it's not really a problem that bothers be.
I do get a little chafe wear on the mast and sprit where they meet,
but nothing a little varnish won't clear up.
see the heading for Cartopper and just click on it. You can see my
sheet arrangement clearly. It's an old photo, the snotter is 'pre
downhaul' but you can see how I have my snotter (now snotter 'uphaul')
rigged if you look closely--down to deck and aft to hand on the stbd
side of the trunk. I simply rigged the downhaul to the other side.
If you have your sprit-boom rigged Payson style per New Instant
Boats, with a notch cut in it, and an eye-splice in the end of the
snotter, the downhaul is easy to rig. Just put an identically sized
eye-splice in it (another reason to use manilla--so easy to splice!)
and put it around the boom after you've put the snotter 'uphaul' eye-
splice around the boom, but before you jam the uphaul in the slot.
I've never, ever, had the arrangement come even close to failing me
(though it is a tight fit in the notch on my sprit boom).
I did have a snotter uphaul break underway on Loon Lake in the
Sierras once, solely due to wear (and my negligence in not replacing
it sooner). I was racing an El Toro upwind. I just re-rigged the
downhaul as an uphaul, did without the dowhaul, and went on my way,
still ahead of the El Toro! (That was probably more due to the fact
that it was the first time that guy had ever sailed his boat, than it
was to my seamanship!)
to the transom, with a hole cut in each one to accept the bridle.
won't plane, she just makes waves. In Cartopper if the winds so
strong that she'll be straining, it's best to reef (I do have reef
points) or not head out in the first place. I don't hike out
anymore, too much strain on the hull. I started finding little
cracks in the fillets between frame and hull, since fixed. But yea,
it was fun to find the limit! It took me a long time to get
acquainted enough with her enough to dare hike out. She's a tiddly
craft, more so than the longer Gypsy I'm sure. And with the strong,
shifty inland winds where I normally sail, it would only take an
instant's inattention to end up in the drink. The very day I first
got up my confidence to start hiking out, I raced past an anchored
power boater, looking to impress the ladies who were obviously eyeing
my boat. I made the mistake of going past on the lee side...
It was a tall cruiser. The wind instantly (I don't know that that's
a strong enough word for what happened!) died. I shipped a couple
gallons of water before I recovered! Luckily, I wasn't facing them,
so I didn't have to see their no doubt amused reaction...
Good sailing. Gypsy is a good looking boat! John
> John,the
>
> Thank you very much for the excellent suggestion of adding a
> sprit "down haul...where did you run the
> lines aft to cam cleats so that they do not interfere with where
> crew sits or hikes? Where are the cam cleats attached? Aremanilla
> snotter lines too springy?<<On my Cartopper, they run straight down to deck mounted turning
eyes. If you don't have a deck, I imagine you could use the mast,
one eye per side. Mine run from there to either side of the top of
my c/b trunk, to jam cleats.
As far as the stretch, I really don't notice, probably because I'm
alwasy fooling with them, and because it doesn't matter that much.
It's not a Star or a 49'er! The tensions, all things considered, are
pretty low.
>>sometimes when my Gypsy is on a very broad port reach and anytimewhen she is running with the sprit over the starboard side, the
snotter pulls tight and binds the sprit against the mast. In waves
or gusts, the rig bounces...<<
My mast rotates. Does yours? It sounds like it doesn't. With a
rotating mast the whole mast just rotates as the sail and sprit boom
come around. If you rig the snotter as I do, you may not have a
probelm with binding, because there is some limited amount of 'slack'
built into the system no matter how tight your lines are, at least
when using manilla.
I don't have a problem with 'bouncing,' at least not that I've
noticed in 2 years of nearly weekly sailing. In light air it will
somtimes slap the mast when the boat rolls in a wake because I have
the snotter so loose, but it's not really a problem that bothers be.
I do get a little chafe wear on the mast and sprit where they meet,
but nothing a little varnish won't clear up.
>To see my Cartopper just click on 'files', under 'messages'. You'll
see the heading for Cartopper and just click on it. You can see my
sheet arrangement clearly. It's an old photo, the snotter is 'pre
downhaul' but you can see how I have my snotter (now snotter 'uphaul')
rigged if you look closely--down to deck and aft to hand on the stbd
side of the trunk. I simply rigged the downhaul to the other side.
If you have your sprit-boom rigged Payson style per New Instant
Boats, with a notch cut in it, and an eye-splice in the end of the
snotter, the downhaul is easy to rig. Just put an identically sized
eye-splice in it (another reason to use manilla--so easy to splice!)
and put it around the boom after you've put the snotter 'uphaul' eye-
splice around the boom, but before you jam the uphaul in the slot.
I've never, ever, had the arrangement come even close to failing me
(though it is a tight fit in the notch on my sprit boom).
I did have a snotter uphaul break underway on Loon Lake in the
Sierras once, solely due to wear (and my negligence in not replacing
it sooner). I was racing an El Toro upwind. I just re-rigged the
downhaul as an uphaul, did without the dowhaul, and went on my way,
still ahead of the El Toro! (That was probably more due to the fact
that it was the first time that guy had ever sailed his boat, than it
was to my seamanship!)
> I also look forward to adding a bridle. Did you reinforce thestern
> quarters in any manner to support the transom where the bridle isI just have the normal 'knees' (is that the term) bridgeing the side
> attached?
to the transom, with a hole cut in each one to accept the bridle.
> Have you ever felt the need to install a hiking strap? I'm sorryto
> learn about your broken mast, but ya gotta like it that you went toNo hiking strap! Cartopper is really not meant for hiking. She
> the edge and found out her limitations.
won't plane, she just makes waves. In Cartopper if the winds so
strong that she'll be straining, it's best to reef (I do have reef
points) or not head out in the first place. I don't hike out
anymore, too much strain on the hull. I started finding little
cracks in the fillets between frame and hull, since fixed. But yea,
it was fun to find the limit! It took me a long time to get
acquainted enough with her enough to dare hike out. She's a tiddly
craft, more so than the longer Gypsy I'm sure. And with the strong,
shifty inland winds where I normally sail, it would only take an
instant's inattention to end up in the drink. The very day I first
got up my confidence to start hiking out, I raced past an anchored
power boater, looking to impress the ladies who were obviously eyeing
my boat. I made the mistake of going past on the lee side...
It was a tall cruiser. The wind instantly (I don't know that that's
a strong enough word for what happened!) died. I shipped a couple
gallons of water before I recovered! Luckily, I wasn't facing them,
so I didn't have to see their no doubt amused reaction...
Good sailing. Gypsy is a good looking boat! John
John,
Thank you very much for the excellent suggestion of adding a
sprit "down haul". I can picture how that will work very effectively
and I look forward to the Spring when I can rig her and make these
changes.
Can I ask you for a bit more information: where did you run the
lines aft to cam cleats so that they do not interfere with where the
crew sits or hikes? Where are the cam cleats attached? Are manilla
snotter lines too springy? I ask this because when sometimes when my
Gypsy is on a very broad port reach and anytime when she is running
with the sprit over the starboard side, the snotter pulls tight and
binds the sprit against the mast. In waves or gusts, the rig bounces
and I am often concerned that it will bounce too hard, back wind, and
then accidently jibe. I can appreciate that a snotter with some
stretch may limit binding, but does it agravate the potential for the
bounce-slap-jibe?
I would love to see the Cartopper pictures in the files but I am new
to this group and I have not figured out how to search properly.
Could you please give me more direction when I can find the pictures?
I also look forward to adding a bridle. Did you reinforce the stern
quarters in any manner to support the transom where the bridle is
attached?
Have you ever felt the need to install a hiking strap? I'm sorry to
learn about your broken mast, but ya gotta like it that you went to
the edge and found out her limitations.
Again, thanks for the tips and the benefit of your experience.
Thank you very much for the excellent suggestion of adding a
sprit "down haul". I can picture how that will work very effectively
and I look forward to the Spring when I can rig her and make these
changes.
Can I ask you for a bit more information: where did you run the
lines aft to cam cleats so that they do not interfere with where the
crew sits or hikes? Where are the cam cleats attached? Are manilla
snotter lines too springy? I ask this because when sometimes when my
Gypsy is on a very broad port reach and anytime when she is running
with the sprit over the starboard side, the snotter pulls tight and
binds the sprit against the mast. In waves or gusts, the rig bounces
and I am often concerned that it will bounce too hard, back wind, and
then accidently jibe. I can appreciate that a snotter with some
stretch may limit binding, but does it agravate the potential for the
bounce-slap-jibe?
I would love to see the Cartopper pictures in the files but I am new
to this group and I have not figured out how to search properly.
Could you please give me more direction when I can find the pictures?
I also look forward to adding a bridle. Did you reinforce the stern
quarters in any manner to support the transom where the bridle is
attached?
Have you ever felt the need to install a hiking strap? I'm sorry to
learn about your broken mast, but ya gotta like it that you went to
the edge and found out her limitations.
Again, thanks for the tips and the benefit of your experience.
Oh, and PS, don't worry about the 'frail' Bolger mast. It'll bend,
but it won't break if it's a good quality Doug Fir or equivelent
mast, built to specs, unless you're out in way big breeze with a
couple of big bodies hiking out on the weather rail. Even then if
it's well built, it'll bend a lot, but it's probably not going to
break.
I did have one break once, in a too big breeze (maybe 15k), upwind,
when I was hiking out sitting on the rail (difficult in a tiddly
Cartopper, trust me on that) trying to impress a watching laser
sailer (bad move!). The mast didn't come all the way down, just
split something horrendous (to hear!) right at a huge knot about six
feet up that had magically appeared as I'd planed down the glued-up
lumberyard boards when I was making the mast. I've since
build 'bird's mouth' masts for both my boats.
If the new masts break, I shouldn't have been out in that weather
anyway.
John
but it won't break if it's a good quality Doug Fir or equivelent
mast, built to specs, unless you're out in way big breeze with a
couple of big bodies hiking out on the weather rail. Even then if
it's well built, it'll bend a lot, but it's probably not going to
break.
I did have one break once, in a too big breeze (maybe 15k), upwind,
when I was hiking out sitting on the rail (difficult in a tiddly
Cartopper, trust me on that) trying to impress a watching laser
sailer (bad move!). The mast didn't come all the way down, just
split something horrendous (to hear!) right at a huge knot about six
feet up that had magically appeared as I'd planed down the glued-up
lumberyard boards when I was making the mast. I've since
build 'bird's mouth' masts for both my boats.
If the new masts break, I shouldn't have been out in that weather
anyway.
John
>I am unhappy with the lack ofI have two Cartoppers, and know *exactly* what you are talking
> adjustments to the leech.
about. The answer is a two-part snotter. Take the snotter
attachment point at your mast and move it up about 18 inches or so,
depending, and rig the snotter as you normally would to the higher
point. Now add a 'downhaul' to the end of the sprit boom. Run both
lines, snotter and snotter downhaul, through deck or mast mounted
turning blocks or eyes (definatly use a fat eye or expensive swivel
block for the 'downhaul' as it rakes through a fairly wide angle)
then aft to cam cleats or some arrangement for easy adjustment. Make
the snotter lines out of something ( I use manilla) that will stretch
or give if the mast turns 180 (or more!), as doing so puts fair
strain on sails and masts if the snotters are not allowed to turn
with the mast, and instead wrap around it (when novices go out, rig
the snotters to a cleat on the mast, they're not going to want to
adjust it anyway).
That will clear up your leech problem because you'll be able to
easily adjust the height of the sprit in relation to the mast, simply
by adjusting the two parts of the snotter (Slack the snotter uphaul,
and haul on the snotter dowhaul, and down comes the sprit, and vice
versa).
It works GREAT. It light airs you can adjust the boom (if you make
your snotter long enough) clear down to the foot of the sail (don't
forget to duck!). Plus, the downhaul allows you to get a bit more
tension on the sprit than you can get using uphaul alone.
> Controlling sail camber is limited without a boom and vang.<This is just like having a vang, and outhaul, all in one.
>I over-stress the pintles and gudgeons when I pull hard on theSee Cartopper picture in the files. Run a rope bridle across from
> main sheet.
the stern quarters, then tie two stopper knots, one to each side of
centerline, and hook one end of your sheet between them.
Rig a block to the end of your boom, run your sheet through it then
in to hand. Now you have mechnical advantage and no rudder stress.
Make your sheet about 30' long, certainly no less than 26'. In light
air you'll probably still end up with more leech tension than you
want, but what did you want, perfection!
And no, you're not coming across as a woose. Only 59 sq ft or not,
that sheet does generate some pull without mechanical advantage. I
don't know about you, but if I want an upper body workout I go to the
gym, because I can leave there when I get tired. But it's definately
considered bad practice to leave the boat before you get to the ramp,
no matter how tired you get.
Good sailing! John
Mike,
Buddy, you need to get a better line on the snotter so you can haul it tight
and it will stay. The foot of the sail is a vang if the snotter is tight. A
good snotter will flatten the sail like a sheet of aluminum if the spars will
stand it.
Cheers/Step
Buddy, you need to get a better line on the snotter so you can haul it tight
and it will stay. The foot of the sail is a vang if the snotter is tight. A
good snotter will flatten the sail like a sheet of aluminum if the spars will
stand it.
Cheers/Step
Glad you liked my last note, but sorry, not much experience with these. I
always thought they were self vanging. I do have a sprit boom on my mizzen,
though, and found that I had to experiment to get the right height at the
forward end to get the sail to set right.
However, I'll defer to more knowlegeable members out there.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From:mkrauss@...[mailto:mkrauss@...]
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 2:23 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Gypsy question: add a traveler
I am interested if and how others have modified the Gypsy's sprit
rigged sail. In particular, I am unhappy with the lack of
adjustments to the leech. Close hauled, it twists off too much.
Controlling sail camber is limited without a boom and vang. Is
pulling the sprit spar back towards the clew enough to flatten the
sail? I over-stress the pintles and gudgeons when I pull hard on the
main sheet. It feels like I could pull the rudder assembly right off
the transom. Would the rigging be better if I installed a traveler
or a bridle for the main sheet? I've been thinking that to attach
the bridle, I could put pieces of wood in the stern for reinforcement
where the side panel meets the transom. I could also run the main
sheet through a block (like on a Laser) so that I could have a 2 to
1 set-up. Fearing that I will come across as a woose, I must admit
that this would be very welcomed because the main pulls hard in a
good breeze when she's working on the wind, and my poor hands get
tired. I am concerned, however, that the frail wooden mast Bolger
specifies may not be able to take the raking that would occur from a
main sheeted in with enhanced mechanical advantage.
In general, has anyone had success adding rigging that controls sail
shape? In particular, how would a traveler affect things?
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
- no flogging dead horses
- add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
- stay on topic and punctuate
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
always thought they were self vanging. I do have a sprit boom on my mizzen,
though, and found that I had to experiment to get the right height at the
forward end to get the sail to set right.
However, I'll defer to more knowlegeable members out there.
Jamie Orr
-----Original Message-----
From:mkrauss@...[mailto:mkrauss@...]
Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2000 2:23 PM
To:bolger@egroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Gypsy question: add a traveler
I am interested if and how others have modified the Gypsy's sprit
rigged sail. In particular, I am unhappy with the lack of
adjustments to the leech. Close hauled, it twists off too much.
Controlling sail camber is limited without a boom and vang. Is
pulling the sprit spar back towards the clew enough to flatten the
sail? I over-stress the pintles and gudgeons when I pull hard on the
main sheet. It feels like I could pull the rudder assembly right off
the transom. Would the rigging be better if I installed a traveler
or a bridle for the main sheet? I've been thinking that to attach
the bridle, I could put pieces of wood in the stern for reinforcement
where the side panel meets the transom. I could also run the main
sheet through a block (like on a Laser) so that I could have a 2 to
1 set-up. Fearing that I will come across as a woose, I must admit
that this would be very welcomed because the main pulls hard in a
good breeze when she's working on the wind, and my poor hands get
tired. I am concerned, however, that the frail wooden mast Bolger
specifies may not be able to take the raking that would occur from a
main sheeted in with enhanced mechanical advantage.
In general, has anyone had success adding rigging that controls sail
shape? In particular, how would a traveler affect things?
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I am interested if and how others have modified the Gypsy's sprit
rigged sail. In particular, I am unhappy with the lack of
adjustments to the leech. Close hauled, it twists off too much.
Controlling sail camber is limited without a boom and vang. Is
pulling the sprit spar back towards the clew enough to flatten the
sail? I over-stress the pintles and gudgeons when I pull hard on the
main sheet. It feels like I could pull the rudder assembly right off
the transom. Would the rigging be better if I installed a traveler
or a bridle for the main sheet? I've been thinking that to attach
the bridle, I could put pieces of wood in the stern for reinforcement
where the side panel meets the transom. I could also run the main
sheet through a block (like on a Laser) so that I could have a 2 to
1 set-up. Fearing that I will come across as a woose, I must admit
that this would be very welcomed because the main pulls hard in a
good breeze when she's working on the wind, and my poor hands get
tired. I am concerned, however, that the frail wooden mast Bolger
specifies may not be able to take the raking that would occur from a
main sheeted in with enhanced mechanical advantage.
In general, has anyone had success adding rigging that controls sail
shape? In particular, how would a traveler affect things?
rigged sail. In particular, I am unhappy with the lack of
adjustments to the leech. Close hauled, it twists off too much.
Controlling sail camber is limited without a boom and vang. Is
pulling the sprit spar back towards the clew enough to flatten the
sail? I over-stress the pintles and gudgeons when I pull hard on the
main sheet. It feels like I could pull the rudder assembly right off
the transom. Would the rigging be better if I installed a traveler
or a bridle for the main sheet? I've been thinking that to attach
the bridle, I could put pieces of wood in the stern for reinforcement
where the side panel meets the transom. I could also run the main
sheet through a block (like on a Laser) so that I could have a 2 to
1 set-up. Fearing that I will come across as a woose, I must admit
that this would be very welcomed because the main pulls hard in a
good breeze when she's working on the wind, and my poor hands get
tired. I am concerned, however, that the frail wooden mast Bolger
specifies may not be able to take the raking that would occur from a
main sheeted in with enhanced mechanical advantage.
In general, has anyone had success adding rigging that controls sail
shape? In particular, how would a traveler affect things?