[bolger] Re: Electric Drive (part deux)
At 01:28 PM 11/23/1999 -0800, you wrote:
"blemished" for $30 each. An honest 230 amp hours each and bullet-proof.
I have 4 in my big sailboat.
shaft collar might hold it on a fair size shaft if that's the way you need
to go. My biggest "supplier" is a machine shop, so I guess I'm spoiled...
GHC
>Here's what I expect:I can't say enough good about my Exide 6-volt golf-cart batteries I got
>
>motor: 3/4 HP 24 volt
>battery: 2 x 140 amp-hour reserve deep cycle marine batteries
"blemished" for $30 each. An honest 230 amp hours each and bullet-proof.
I have 4 in my big sailboat.
>prop: 11x7That's not much. I've never seen the specs, but I'll bet a well-set split
>thrust: 48 pounds
shaft collar might hold it on a fair size shaft if that's the way you need
to go. My biggest "supplier" is a machine shop, so I guess I'm spoiled...
GHC
Sorry, this was sent by mistake while I was still working on it. Here's
the full version:
The expected thrust out of this motor isn't much at all. I've used
Douglas Little's "Electric Boats" as a reference, he in turn leans
heavily on Dave Gerr's "Propeller Handbook" I let Michigan Propellers
spec the prop (came out differentl;y from Douglas' calculations)
Here's what I expect:
motor: 3/4 HP 24 volt
battery: 2 x 140 amp-hour reserve deep cycle marine batteries
prop: 11x7
thrust: 48 pounds
speed: 3 kts max
current: 23 amps max
run time: 2.5 hours @ 23 amps
run dist: 8.4 miles
This should be very adequate as all I expect to use the motor for is
docking, not for running. Should I need it, I can double up the
batteries, this gives slightly more then twice the range. Re-charge
will be by built in and adapted automitive battery chargers; I have a
10A charger here by Exide which I discected and reverese engineered,
it is a very good and safe design, and cheap. Each battery gets its own
charger.
If anyone is interested, I have an Excel 97 spreadsheet where you enter
data about your boat and the motor you want to use and it predicts the
performance. Email me aternie@...for a copy
g carlson <ghart-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=918
the full version:
The expected thrust out of this motor isn't much at all. I've used
Douglas Little's "Electric Boats" as a reference, he in turn leans
heavily on Dave Gerr's "Propeller Handbook" I let Michigan Propellers
spec the prop (came out differentl;y from Douglas' calculations)
Here's what I expect:
motor: 3/4 HP 24 volt
battery: 2 x 140 amp-hour reserve deep cycle marine batteries
prop: 11x7
thrust: 48 pounds
speed: 3 kts max
current: 23 amps max
run time: 2.5 hours @ 23 amps
run dist: 8.4 miles
This should be very adequate as all I expect to use the motor for is
docking, not for running. Should I need it, I can double up the
batteries, this gives slightly more then twice the range. Re-charge
will be by built in and adapted automitive battery chargers; I have a
10A charger here by Exide which I discected and reverese engineered,
it is a very good and safe design, and cheap. Each battery gets its own
charger.
If anyone is interested, I have an Excel 97 spreadsheet where you enter
data about your boat and the motor you want to use and it predicts the
performance. Email me aternie@...for a copy
g carlson <ghart-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=918
> Ernie,collar in
>
> >Thanks, I think I get the intent of your drawing, and the parts
> >catalogs are starting to make more sense. Just a few more questions
> >please.
> >
> >1) The thrust bearing in your drawing makes sense; it transfers the
> >prop thrust to the rest of the boat. But what about when in reverse?
> >What keeps the shaft from shooting out the back? Don't I need a 2nd
> >thrust bearing?
> >
> >2) As opposed to machining the shaft for the thrust bearing, would a
> >Clamp on collar work?
>
> You are correct. I myself would tend not to rely on a friction
> forward, although it, or the pulley, could probably handle reverse.(I
> don't know how much thrust you are talking about, either.)the
>
> >3) The shaft comes in the cabin at about a 6° degree angle, to fit
> >motor without raising the floor I need to mount it horizontal,leaving
> >that 6° skew. I can seporate them by about 20 inches. Can the beltYou
> >follow this bit of twist with minimal loss?
>
> No, I face-mounted the motor on the welded plate to align the belts.
> can twist a belt, but if the motor and shaft lie in the same plane,they
> must be parallel. Flipping my assembly upside down would lower themotor...
>can
> >Now when are you going to email me about your LM317 problems so I
> >help you back?testing
>
> I don't think now that that was my problem, but I'm doing some more
> today - I'm going from 39 to 5 V, and that device was about the onlyway I
> could find to do it, with its high Vin...
>
> Gregg
>
>
The expected thrust out of this motor isn't much at all. I've used
Douglas Little's "Electric Boats" as a reference, he in turn leans
heavily on Dave Gerr's "Propeller Handbook" I let Michigan Propellers
spec the prop (came out differentl;y from Douglas' calculations)
Here's what I expect:
motor: 3/4 HP 24 volt
battery: 2 140 AM reserve deep cycle
prop: 11x7
thrust
g carlson <ghart-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=918
Douglas Little's "Electric Boats" as a reference, he in turn leans
heavily on Dave Gerr's "Propeller Handbook" I let Michigan Propellers
spec the prop (came out differentl;y from Douglas' calculations)
Here's what I expect:
motor: 3/4 HP 24 volt
battery: 2 140 AM reserve deep cycle
prop: 11x7
thrust
g carlson <ghart-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=918
> Ernie,collar in
>
> >Thanks, I think I get the intent of your drawing, and the parts
> >catalogs are starting to make more sense. Just a few more questions
> >please.
> >
> >1) The thrust bearing in your drawing makes sense; it transfers the
> >prop thrust to the rest of the boat. But what about when in reverse?
> >What keeps the shaft from shooting out the back? Don't I need a 2nd
> >thrust bearing?
> >
> >2) As opposed to machining the shaft for the thrust bearing, would a
> >Clamp on collar work?
>
> You are correct. I myself would tend not to rely on a friction
> forward, although it, or the pulley, could probably handle reverse.(I
> don't know how much thrust you are talking about, either.)the
>
> >3) The shaft comes in the cabin at about a 6° degree angle, to fit
> >motor without raising the floor I need to mount it horizontal,leaving
> >that 6° skew. I can seporate them by about 20 inches. Can the beltYou
> >follow this bit of twist with minimal loss?
>
> No, I face-mounted the motor on the welded plate to align the belts.
> can twist a belt, but if the motor and shaft lie in the same plane,they
> must be parallel. Flipping my assembly upside down would lower themotor...
>can
> >Now when are you going to email me about your LM317 problems so I
> >help you back?testing
>
> I don't think now that that was my problem, but I'm doing some more
> today - I'm going from 39 to 5 V, and that device was about the onlyway I
> could find to do it, with its high Vin...
>
> Gregg
>
>
Ernie,
forward, although it, or the pulley, could probably handle reverse. (I
don't know how much thrust you are talking about, either.)
can twist a belt, but if the motor and shaft lie in the same plane, they
must be parallel. Flipping my assembly upside down would lower the motor...
today - I'm going from 39 to 5 V, and that device was about the only way I
could find to do it, with its high Vin...
Gregg
>Thanks, I think I get the intent of your drawing, and the partsYou are correct. I myself would tend not to rely on a friction collar in
>catalogs are starting to make more sense. Just a few more questions
>please.
>
>1) The thrust bearing in your drawing makes sense; it transfers the
>prop thrust to the rest of the boat. But what about when in reverse?
>What keeps the shaft from shooting out the back? Don't I need a 2nd
>thrust bearing?
>
>2) As opposed to machining the shaft for the thrust bearing, would a
>Clamp on collar work?
forward, although it, or the pulley, could probably handle reverse. (I
don't know how much thrust you are talking about, either.)
>3) The shaft comes in the cabin at about a 6° degree angle, to fit theNo, I face-mounted the motor on the welded plate to align the belts. You
>motor without raising the floor I need to mount it horizontal, leaving
>that 6° skew. I can seporate them by about 20 inches. Can the belt
>follow this bit of twist with minimal loss?
can twist a belt, but if the motor and shaft lie in the same plane, they
must be parallel. Flipping my assembly upside down would lower the motor...
>Now when are you going to email me about your LM317 problems so I canI don't think now that that was my problem, but I'm doing some more testing
>help you back?
today - I'm going from 39 to 5 V, and that device was about the only way I
could find to do it, with its high Vin...
Gregg
Gregg,
Thanks, I think I get the intent of your drawing, and the parts
catalogs are starting to make more sense. Just a few more questions
please.
1) The thrust bearing in your drawing makes sense; it transfers the
prop thrust to the rest of the boat. But what about when in reverse?
What keeps the shaft from shooting out the back? Don't I need a 2nd
thrust bearing?
2) As opposed to machining the shaft for the thrust bearing, would a
Clamp on collar work?
3) The shaft comes in the cabin at about a 6° degree angle, to fit the
motor without raising the floor I need to mount it horizontal, leaving
that 6° skew. I can seporate them by about 20 inches. Can the belt
follow this bit of twist with minimal loss?
You've been a great help. John wonderful idea, but I doubt I can spare
the battery juice just to heat the shaft log (i.e., lovely simple idea,
but too lossy for this application)
Now when are you going to email me about your LM317 problems so I can
help you back?
ghc <ghart-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=902
Thanks, I think I get the intent of your drawing, and the parts
catalogs are starting to make more sense. Just a few more questions
please.
1) The thrust bearing in your drawing makes sense; it transfers the
prop thrust to the rest of the boat. But what about when in reverse?
What keeps the shaft from shooting out the back? Don't I need a 2nd
thrust bearing?
2) As opposed to machining the shaft for the thrust bearing, would a
Clamp on collar work?
3) The shaft comes in the cabin at about a 6° degree angle, to fit the
motor without raising the floor I need to mount it horizontal, leaving
that 6° skew. I can seporate them by about 20 inches. Can the belt
follow this bit of twist with minimal loss?
You've been a great help. John wonderful idea, but I doubt I can spare
the battery juice just to heat the shaft log (i.e., lovely simple idea,
but too lossy for this application)
Now when are you going to email me about your LM317 problems so I can
help you back?
ghc <ghart-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=902
> Ernie,right
>
> >You mentioned a water-lubricated bearing in the bottom and maybe a
> >flange-type on the top end. I hate to be a pest, but is there
> >something in McMasters I can look at to get an idea what they are? Do
> >these have to be marine things?
>
> I don't see them in M-Carr, but they might have them. I can get them
> here in Tulsa at Allied Bearing Supply, made by Morse, called "BrassMarine
> Bearings". Naval brass sleeve with fluted rubber internally.(Check
>
> >Or is the hardware store better (cheaper!)?
>
> They won't have these.
>
> >And what kind of a little local store sells bearings and pulleys?
>
> Look in the Yellow Pages under "Bearings" in any big city.
>
> >What does keep the shaft from moving in forward and reverse? Don't I
> >need 2 flange bearings? Where? (I hate being this clueless)
>
> You probably ought to have the top end of your shaft stepped down by
> diameter into the bearing to carry thrust, if that's what you mean.
> your flange bearing at top for its thrust capacity.)is
>
> >Since I need some rotation gearing here, dropping the motor in a box
> >*way* over my head, and puts that thing below the water line. I don't
> >think going there is wise. If I was heading that direction, I'd cut
> >down a trolling motor and stuff it in.
>
> I think you lost me - I'll send another sketch.
>
> Gregg
>
Ernie-
For a water-lubricated stern bearing you can use a chunk of hardwood.
Steamships used to use stern bearings made of lignum vitae, up into the
'70s! You don't need to use wood that fancy and expensive, in an old
Mariners' catalog Pete Culler suggested using a gnarly, burly chunk of any
hardwood, but I suspect even a straight grained piece would work fine; it's
no big deal to make a replacement when it wears out. Drill a hole in the
wood block slightly larger than your shaft, then saw a groove in the bottom
of the hole to improve the water flow and give sand and debris a chance to
escape. Bolt the block to your deadwood with hanger bolts to make
replacement easier.
For a water-lubricated stern bearing you can use a chunk of hardwood.
Steamships used to use stern bearings made of lignum vitae, up into the
'70s! You don't need to use wood that fancy and expensive, in an old
Mariners' catalog Pete Culler suggested using a gnarly, burly chunk of any
hardwood, but I suspect even a straight grained piece would work fine; it's
no big deal to make a replacement when it wears out. Drill a hole in the
wood block slightly larger than your shaft, then saw a groove in the bottom
of the hole to improve the water flow and give sand and debris a chance to
escape. Bolt the block to your deadwood with hanger bolts to make
replacement easier.
On Sat, 20 Nov 1999 13:12:52 -0800, Ernie wrote:
> ...
> You mentioned a water-lubricated bearing in the bottom and maybe a
> flange-type on the top end. I hate to be a pest, but is there
> something in McMasters I can look at to get an idea what they are? Do
> these have to be marine things? Or is the hardware store better
> (cheaper!)? And what kind of a little local store sells bearings and
> pulleys?
> ...
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.cyber-dyne.com/~jkohnen/nautical.html
The denunciation of the young is a necessary part of the hygiene of older
people, and greatly assists the circulation of the blood.
<Logan Pearsall Smith>
Gregg:
I have heard these called "cutlass" bearings. Here is a website for a
company which seems to sell them.
http://www.vesconite.com/apps/marine.html
A search for "cutlass bearings on Google turned up some discussions of them:
http://www.google.com/search?q=cutlass+bearing
Chuck
I have heard these called "cutlass" bearings. Here is a website for a
company which seems to sell them.
http://www.vesconite.com/apps/marine.html
A search for "cutlass bearings on Google turned up some discussions of them:
http://www.google.com/search?q=cutlass+bearing
Chuck
> Ernie,right
>
> >You mentioned a water-lubricated bearing in the bottom and maybe a
> >flange-type on the top end. I hate to be a pest, but is there
> >something in McMasters I can look at to get an idea what they are? Do
> >these have to be marine things?
>
> I don't see them in M-Carr, but they might have them. I can get them
> here in Tulsa at Allied Bearing Supply, made by Morse, called "BrassMarine
> Bearings". Naval brass sleeve with fluted rubber internally.(Check
>
> >Or is the hardware store better (cheaper!)?
>
> They won't have these.
>
> >And what kind of a little local store sells bearings and pulleys?
>
> Look in the Yellow Pages under "Bearings" in any big city.
>
> >What does keep the shaft from moving in forward and reverse? Don't I
> >need 2 flange bearings? Where? (I hate being this clueless)
>
> You probably ought to have the top end of your shaft stepped down by
> diameter into the bearing to carry thrust, if that's what you mean.
> your flange bearing at top for its thrust capacity.)
>
> >Since I need some rotation gearing here, dropping the motor in a box is
> >*way* over my head, and puts that thing below the water line. I don't
> >think going there is wise. If I was heading that direction, I'd cut
> >down a trolling motor and stuff it in.
>
> I think you lost me - I'll send another sketch.
>
> Gregg
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Was the salesman clueless? Productopia has the answers.
>http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/1702
>
>
>
> -- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!
> --http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=bolger&m=1
>
>
>
Ernie,
here in Tulsa at Allied Bearing Supply, made by Morse, called "Brass Marine
Bearings". Naval brass sleeve with fluted rubber internally.
diameter into the bearing to carry thrust, if that's what you mean. (Check
your flange bearing at top for its thrust capacity.)
Gregg
>You mentioned a water-lubricated bearing in the bottom and maybe aI don't see them in M-Carr, but they might have them. I can get them right
>flange-type on the top end. I hate to be a pest, but is there
>something in McMasters I can look at to get an idea what they are? Do
>these have to be marine things?
here in Tulsa at Allied Bearing Supply, made by Morse, called "Brass Marine
Bearings". Naval brass sleeve with fluted rubber internally.
>Or is the hardware store better (cheaper!)?They won't have these.
>And what kind of a little local store sells bearings and pulleys?Look in the Yellow Pages under "Bearings" in any big city.
>What does keep the shaft from moving in forward and reverse? Don't IYou probably ought to have the top end of your shaft stepped down by
>need 2 flange bearings? Where? (I hate being this clueless)
diameter into the bearing to carry thrust, if that's what you mean. (Check
your flange bearing at top for its thrust capacity.)
>Since I need some rotation gearing here, dropping the motor in a box isI think you lost me - I'll send another sketch.
>*way* over my head, and puts that thing below the water line. I don't
>think going there is wise. If I was heading that direction, I'd cut
>down a trolling motor and stuff it in.
Gregg
Apologies for unintentionally broadcasting my sketch for Ernie to the whole
group - bad manners..!
Gregg Carlson
group - bad manners..!
Gregg Carlson
Gregg,
First, hiya. I'm Ernie. "TIA" is a neticism for "Thanks in advance"
I'm stuck on the pulley idea because I can envision it and that's what
Elco has on their pages.
http://www.electriclaunch.com/upgrades.html
But I can see the advantages of your method of the long shaft. I
re-checked the catfish plans and it looks like it is possible to do
this way (I forgot there is a pretty deep cabin sole in there), the
expense of lifting the porta-potty floor up 2" or so. I think I can
live with that. The shaft would be about 10 1/2 feet long and only 6°
off horizontal.
LOTS of advantages this way, especially that I can place the 4 deep
cycle batteries there so that weight balances my butt at the other end.
Glen-L uses a similar drive scheme, with a suggested tube made of
fiberglass to enclose the shaft. That seems like lots of work for
little gain, except end plates and that can be glued. My father has
welding equipment, he'd be very happy to help, but he's a little past
his prime and I'd hate to have the guy burn himself. But got the welder
anyway. There are books I can read.
Oh yes, "trailer use" quality is the goal here.
You mentioned a water-lubricated bearing in the bottom and maybe a
flange-type on the top end. I hate to be a pest, but is there
something in McMasters I can look at to get an idea what they are? Do
these have to be marine things? Or is the hardware store better
(cheaper!)? And what kind of a little local store sells bearings and
pulleys?
What does keep the shaft from moving in forward and reverse? Don't I
need 2 flange bearings? Where? (I hate being this clueless)
Since I need some rotation gearing here, dropping the motor in a box is
*way* over my head, and puts that thing below the water line. I don't
think going there is wise. If I was heading that direction, I'd cut
down a trolling motor and stuff it in.
As far as your LM317 50V supply goes did you buy this or building it?
The '317 is rated for 47 V out max, better use the LM317HV to get 50.
But this is WAAY off topic here, email me at ernie@surfree and I can
help you out with it. Give me the facts about it you think is relevant
and I'll wade through them.
ghc <ghart-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=895
First, hiya. I'm Ernie. "TIA" is a neticism for "Thanks in advance"
I'm stuck on the pulley idea because I can envision it and that's what
Elco has on their pages.
http://www.electriclaunch.com/upgrades.html
But I can see the advantages of your method of the long shaft. I
re-checked the catfish plans and it looks like it is possible to do
this way (I forgot there is a pretty deep cabin sole in there), the
expense of lifting the porta-potty floor up 2" or so. I think I can
live with that. The shaft would be about 10 1/2 feet long and only 6°
off horizontal.
LOTS of advantages this way, especially that I can place the 4 deep
cycle batteries there so that weight balances my butt at the other end.
Glen-L uses a similar drive scheme, with a suggested tube made of
fiberglass to enclose the shaft. That seems like lots of work for
little gain, except end plates and that can be glued. My father has
welding equipment, he'd be very happy to help, but he's a little past
his prime and I'd hate to have the guy burn himself. But got the welder
anyway. There are books I can read.
Oh yes, "trailer use" quality is the goal here.
You mentioned a water-lubricated bearing in the bottom and maybe a
flange-type on the top end. I hate to be a pest, but is there
something in McMasters I can look at to get an idea what they are? Do
these have to be marine things? Or is the hardware store better
(cheaper!)? And what kind of a little local store sells bearings and
pulleys?
What does keep the shaft from moving in forward and reverse? Don't I
need 2 flange bearings? Where? (I hate being this clueless)
Since I need some rotation gearing here, dropping the motor in a box is
*way* over my head, and puts that thing below the water line. I don't
think going there is wise. If I was heading that direction, I'd cut
down a trolling motor and stuff it in.
As far as your LM317 50V supply goes did you buy this or building it?
The '317 is rated for 47 V out max, better use the LM317HV to get 50.
But this is WAAY off topic here, email me at ernie@surfree and I can
help you out with it. Give me the facts about it you think is relevant
and I'll wade through them.
ghc <ghart-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=895
> TIA,might be
>
> Probably, they are specifying the shaft diameter. A little prop
> keyed on a stepped shaft and held with a nut. For install, you coulduse a
> 1" shaft stepped down to 3/4" and keyed for the prop (and they wouldbore
> the prop straight and key.) Key size is indicate by bore range, andthey
> will know that.keyed
>
> Either way, you got to machine it. Your other jackshafts should be
> too for their pulleys. Your shafts will be cold-rolled steel atworst or
> "real" ground shafting - no big deal. You could use 1" all around.Your
> bearings will be 2 or 4 bolt flange (used in pairs) bearings all'round
> (like mcmaster-carr #7928K56) bolted to reinforced plywood or metal.Your
> final bearing that is wet, will be some bought marine, or a customchuck of
> metal like the 2-bolt flange carrying both a bearing and a seal,which do
> different jobs.chunk of
>
> To tell you the truth, I would look at using a standard sealed (with
> rubber) ball-bearing pressed (or loctited, epoxied, 5200?) into a
> aluminum. My hunch is that you might get a fair enough seal for"trailer
> use". Worth a try.some
>
> I would look at using gear-belts like the Gates HTD, which can carry
> fair torque. Look at the HP-RPM by reduction curves and you can sizeyour
> belt and see if it gets too big for you. Otherwise, you go to chains,the guy
> which you won't like.
>
> Then, forget about Mcmaster-carr. Make a sketch of your idea and find
> yourself a little machine shop where they might fix combines. Chat
> up and I'll bet he'll give you some ideas. Then, go to a little localwork.
> store where they sell bearings and pulleys and you'll be set.
>
> -
>
> Now, your arrangement is going to be lossy and noisy and complex and
> expensive and hard to tension components. Chains stretch.
>
> Think about a direct drive per attached. It's a piece of pipe with
> bearings pushed in either end. A little welding and a little machine
> I would use the water-lubricated in the bottom and maybe aflange-type on
> the top end - best if the top is above water-line. The top end has athe
> welded plate and opportunity for gearbelt/chain to adjust reduction;
> motor is mounted in the face on slotted holes to tighten. The driveangle
> is non-horizontal, bet less lossy.supply...
>
> Happy to help, short on time today.
>
> Now, maybe you can tell me what is wrong with my LM317 50-volt power
>a
> Gregg
>
> At 09:29 AM 11/19/1999 -0800, you wrote:
> >Sorry to be a pest and ask the same question again, but I'm still in
> >fog about what I need to add the drive components to my little boat.seals,
> >I've diagrammed my scheme on the web and explain what I do not know,
> >which is basically what you get when an electrical guy tries to do
> >mechanical stuff.
> >
> >If you are knowledgeable about pulleys belts shafts bearings and
> >or just like watching a clueless guy squirm, please stop by my site,rld
> >have a look and toss your two cents in the pile.
> >
> >Please check out:http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/ernies_wo
> >/catfish.htm
> >
> >TIA
> >
> >
> >
> >
Thought - at least put your motor in the box?
GHC
At 09:29 AM 11/19/1999 -0800, you wrote:
GHC
At 09:29 AM 11/19/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>Sorry to be a pest and ask the same question again, but I'm still in a
>fog about what I need to add the drive components to my little boat.
>I've diagrammed my scheme on the web and explain what I do not know,
>which is basically what you get when an electrical guy tries to do
>mechanical stuff.
>
>If you are knowledgeable about pulleys belts shafts bearings and seals,
>or just like watching a clueless guy squirm, please stop by my site,
>have a look and toss your two cents in the pile.
>
>Please check out:http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/ernies_world
>/catfish.htm
>
>TIA
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>eGroups.com Home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/
>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
TIA,
Probably, they are specifying the shaft diameter. A little prop might be
keyed on a stepped shaft and held with a nut. For install, you could use a
1" shaft stepped down to 3/4" and keyed for the prop (and they would bore
the prop straight and key.) Key size is indicate by bore range, and they
will know that.
Either way, you got to machine it. Your other jackshafts should be keyed
too for their pulleys. Your shafts will be cold-rolled steel at worst or
"real" ground shafting - no big deal. You could use 1" all around. Your
bearings will be 2 or 4 bolt flange (used in pairs) bearings all 'round
(like mcmaster-carr #7928K56) bolted to reinforced plywood or metal. Your
final bearing that is wet, will be some bought marine, or a custom chuck of
metal like the 2-bolt flange carrying both a bearing and a seal, which do
different jobs.
To tell you the truth, I would look at using a standard sealed (with
rubber) ball-bearing pressed (or loctited, epoxied, 5200?) into a chunk of
aluminum. My hunch is that you might get a fair enough seal for "trailer
use". Worth a try.
I would look at using gear-belts like the Gates HTD, which can carry some
fair torque. Look at the HP-RPM by reduction curves and you can size your
belt and see if it gets too big for you. Otherwise, you go to chains,
which you won't like.
Then, forget about Mcmaster-carr. Make a sketch of your idea and find
yourself a little machine shop where they might fix combines. Chat the guy
up and I'll bet he'll give you some ideas. Then, go to a little local
store where they sell bearings and pulleys and you'll be set.
-
Now, your arrangement is going to be lossy and noisy and complex and
expensive and hard to tension components. Chains stretch.
Think about a direct drive per attached. It's a piece of pipe with
bearings pushed in either end. A little welding and a little machine work.
I would use the water-lubricated in the bottom and maybe a flange-type on
the top end - best if the top is above water-line. The top end has a
welded plate and opportunity for gearbelt/chain to adjust reduction; the
motor is mounted in the face on slotted holes to tighten. The drive angle
is non-horizontal, bet less lossy.
Happy to help, short on time today.
Now, maybe you can tell me what is wrong with my LM317 50-volt power supply...
Gregg
At 09:29 AM 11/19/1999 -0800, you wrote:
Probably, they are specifying the shaft diameter. A little prop might be
keyed on a stepped shaft and held with a nut. For install, you could use a
1" shaft stepped down to 3/4" and keyed for the prop (and they would bore
the prop straight and key.) Key size is indicate by bore range, and they
will know that.
Either way, you got to machine it. Your other jackshafts should be keyed
too for their pulleys. Your shafts will be cold-rolled steel at worst or
"real" ground shafting - no big deal. You could use 1" all around. Your
bearings will be 2 or 4 bolt flange (used in pairs) bearings all 'round
(like mcmaster-carr #7928K56) bolted to reinforced plywood or metal. Your
final bearing that is wet, will be some bought marine, or a custom chuck of
metal like the 2-bolt flange carrying both a bearing and a seal, which do
different jobs.
To tell you the truth, I would look at using a standard sealed (with
rubber) ball-bearing pressed (or loctited, epoxied, 5200?) into a chunk of
aluminum. My hunch is that you might get a fair enough seal for "trailer
use". Worth a try.
I would look at using gear-belts like the Gates HTD, which can carry some
fair torque. Look at the HP-RPM by reduction curves and you can size your
belt and see if it gets too big for you. Otherwise, you go to chains,
which you won't like.
Then, forget about Mcmaster-carr. Make a sketch of your idea and find
yourself a little machine shop where they might fix combines. Chat the guy
up and I'll bet he'll give you some ideas. Then, go to a little local
store where they sell bearings and pulleys and you'll be set.
-
Now, your arrangement is going to be lossy and noisy and complex and
expensive and hard to tension components. Chains stretch.
Think about a direct drive per attached. It's a piece of pipe with
bearings pushed in either end. A little welding and a little machine work.
I would use the water-lubricated in the bottom and maybe a flange-type on
the top end - best if the top is above water-line. The top end has a
welded plate and opportunity for gearbelt/chain to adjust reduction; the
motor is mounted in the face on slotted holes to tighten. The drive angle
is non-horizontal, bet less lossy.
Happy to help, short on time today.
Now, maybe you can tell me what is wrong with my LM317 50-volt power supply...
Gregg
At 09:29 AM 11/19/1999 -0800, you wrote:
>Sorry to be a pest and ask the same question again, but I'm still in a
>fog about what I need to add the drive components to my little boat.
>I've diagrammed my scheme on the web and explain what I do not know,
>which is basically what you get when an electrical guy tries to do
>mechanical stuff.
>
>If you are knowledgeable about pulleys belts shafts bearings and seals,
>or just like watching a clueless guy squirm, please stop by my site,
>have a look and toss your two cents in the pile.
>
>Please check out:http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/ernies_world
>/catfish.htm
>
>TIA
>
>
>
>
>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>eGroups.com Home:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/
>http://www.egroups.com- Simplifying group communications
>
>
>
Sorry to be a pest and ask the same question again, but I'm still in a
fog about what I need to add the drive components to my little boat.
I've diagrammed my scheme on the web and explain what I do not know,
which is basically what you get when an electrical guy tries to do
mechanical stuff.
If you are knowledgeable about pulleys belts shafts bearings and seals,
or just like watching a clueless guy squirm, please stop by my site,
have a look and toss your two cents in the pile.
Please check out:http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/ernies_world
/catfish.htm
TIA
fog about what I need to add the drive components to my little boat.
I've diagrammed my scheme on the web and explain what I do not know,
which is basically what you get when an electrical guy tries to do
mechanical stuff.
If you are knowledgeable about pulleys belts shafts bearings and seals,
or just like watching a clueless guy squirm, please stop by my site,
have a look and toss your two cents in the pile.
Please check out:http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/ernies_world
/catfish.htm
TIA