Re: Block question
That seems like a lot of stress on the wire! Do they have wire with a
working load that high? I get, very roughly, somewhere above 40,000
psi, not accounting for the spaces between the strands. Don't know,
but I should think working load would be reduced in an application
where you move the wire over a block under load.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "MA Farrell, G Blankenship " <gbship@i...>
wrote:
snip probably should be metal and probably should also be grooved for
1/4-
working load that high? I get, very roughly, somewhere above 40,000
psi, not accounting for the spaces between the strands. Don't know,
but I should think working load would be reduced in an application
where you move the wire over a block under load.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "MA Farrell, G Blankenship " <gbship@i...>
wrote:
snip probably should be metal and probably should also be grooved for
1/4-
> inch wire. The working (not breaking) strength should be around acold
> ton. snip
> Any thoughts/suggestions? Many thanks for any help!
>
> Gary Blankenship
> Tallahassee, FL, where it's not only too cold to epoxy, it's too
> to paint!
- I'm not sure if what I have is what you're looking for, but a few
years ago my neighbor gave me a pair of (new) all steel blocks on
their own base. I think they are originally for the steering cables
of old outboards. Very hefty, I'm guessing they are drilled for a pair
of 3/8" mounting bolts. If you think one might work, let me know and
I'll scan a photo to you. You can have one if you pay the shipping.
Rick
-- Inbolger@egroups.com, "MA Farrell, G Blankenship " <gbship@i...>
wrote:
years ago my neighbor gave me a pair of (new) all steel blocks on
their own base. I think they are originally for the steering cables
of old outboards. Very hefty, I'm guessing they are drilled for a pair
of 3/8" mounting bolts. If you think one might work, let me know and
I'll scan a photo to you. You can have one if you pay the shipping.
Rick
-- Inbolger@egroups.com, "MA Farrell, G Blankenship " <gbship@i...>
wrote:
> The design of the lifting keel for my rebuilding project calls fora
> rather hefty block (for the lifting wire) that's proving hard tocatalogs,
> find. Nothing has been located that looks like the drawing, which
> resembles a masthead turning block and I think a conventional block
> shackled to a stout padeye would do. But after pouring over
> the right block as remained elusive -- except with a price tag of1/4-
> $200 or more, and I've built entire boats for less. Here's what's
> needed: A rather large block with a 3-inch or so sheave. The sheave
> probably should be metal and probably should also be grooved for
> inch wire. The working (not breaking) strength should be around acold
> ton. If the block comes with its own baseplate, it should take at
> least 1/4-inch bolts.
>
> Any thoughts/suggestions? Many thanks for any help!
>
> Gary Blankenship
> Tallahassee, FL, where it's not only too cold to epoxy, it's too
> to paint!
The design of the lifting keel for my rebuilding project calls for a
rather hefty block (for the lifting wire) that's proving hard to
find. Nothing has been located that looks like the drawing, which
resembles a masthead turning block and I think a conventional block
shackled to a stout padeye would do. But after pouring over catalogs,
the right block as remained elusive -- except with a price tag of
$200 or more, and I've built entire boats for less. Here's what's
needed: A rather large block with a 3-inch or so sheave. The sheave
probably should be metal and probably should also be grooved for 1/4-
inch wire. The working (not breaking) strength should be around a
ton. If the block comes with its own baseplate, it should take at
least 1/4-inch bolts.
Any thoughts/suggestions? Many thanks for any help!
Gary Blankenship
Tallahassee, FL, where it's not only too cold to epoxy, it's too cold
to paint!
rather hefty block (for the lifting wire) that's proving hard to
find. Nothing has been located that looks like the drawing, which
resembles a masthead turning block and I think a conventional block
shackled to a stout padeye would do. But after pouring over catalogs,
the right block as remained elusive -- except with a price tag of
$200 or more, and I've built entire boats for less. Here's what's
needed: A rather large block with a 3-inch or so sheave. The sheave
probably should be metal and probably should also be grooved for 1/4-
inch wire. The working (not breaking) strength should be around a
ton. If the block comes with its own baseplate, it should take at
least 1/4-inch bolts.
Any thoughts/suggestions? Many thanks for any help!
Gary Blankenship
Tallahassee, FL, where it's not only too cold to epoxy, it's too cold
to paint!