Re: [bolger] Re: The Teal (scaling down from the windsprint for a first boat)

I think of the weight thing as kind of like when you're going
back-packing up in the mountains.... when chosing your gear you can shave off an ounce
here, a couple of ounces there, a few ounces elsewhere, none very important by
themselves, but in aggregate you can loose several pounds and that can make a
real difference in how that pack feels ....same with a boat...a pound here, a
couple of pounds there, added up, can make a difference ....of you have a big
boat, something no one would imagine trying to carry by hand, and if you're
using a trailer to launch and retrieve, then a few extra pounds are probably
not be very important...but if you 'd like to be able to tote it on your
shoulder or wrestle it in and out of a truck or up on a roof rack, then weight
matters...I've been struggling with my own tendency to over-build ever since I
built my first Teal years ago..have to consciously resist and over-ride my desire
to make 'em overly sturdy...it's pretty easy to build a strong and sturdy boat
if you don't care what it weighs...a boat that's both sturdy and light is
somewhat more challenging..
Tyson in Galveston


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
You know the few lbs you may save are not going to
change the speed much, if at all. About the only time
it comes into play is when you are moving the boat by
hand. (ie loading and unloading) Then a small cart
made to fit the craft make that easy to do as well.

Bright Blessings Krissie

--- Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@...> wrote:

> I am not convinced about the weight savings of
> stitch and glue over glue
> and nail. I suppose if you use microballoons
> instead of wood flour in
> your epoxy and are very careful about using a
> minimal amount of epoxy.
> On the other hand, if you use spruce (or generic
> SPF, which generally is
> spruce around here), the chine log is not very
> heavy.
>
> Patrick
>
>pgochnour@...wrote:
> > Glue and nail, glue and screw ( I actually
> prefer screws too..more
> > control and easier to get 'em back out if you need
> to than a ring-shank nail
> > )...but either way you need that big 'ol clunky ,
> heavy chine log....what I like
> > about glue and nail or glue and screw is that you
> can get on with it rather
> > quickly, it's pretty cheap, and you've got a good
> solid chine if it takes a hard
> > knock....the term 'log' is appropriate...but with
> epoxy fillets you can loose
> > some weight ...
> > Tyson in Galvston
> >
>


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I am not convinced about the weight savings of stitch and glue over glue
and nail. I suppose if you use microballoons instead of wood flour in
your epoxy and are very careful about using a minimal amount of epoxy.
On the other hand, if you use spruce (or generic SPF, which generally is
spruce around here), the chine log is not very heavy.

Patrick

pgochnour@...wrote:
> Glue and nail, glue and screw ( I actually prefer screws too..more
> control and easier to get 'em back out if you need to than a ring-shank nail
> )...but either way you need that big 'ol clunky , heavy chine log....what I like
> about glue and nail or glue and screw is that you can get on with it rather
> quickly, it's pretty cheap, and you've got a good solid chine if it takes a hard
> knock....the term 'log' is appropriate...but with epoxy fillets you can loose
> some weight ...
> Tyson in Galvston
>
Glue and nail, glue and screw ( I actually prefer screws too..more
control and easier to get 'em back out if you need to than a ring-shank nail
)...but either way you need that big 'ol clunky , heavy chine log....what I like
about glue and nail or glue and screw is that you can get on with it rather
quickly, it's pretty cheap, and you've got a good solid chine if it takes a hard
knock....the term 'log' is appropriate...but with epoxy fillets you can loose
some weight ... ... for hauling I built a simple rack of 2 x 4's with notches
the size of the strip along the Teal's bottom ( I forget what that's called
...skeg? )......if you are young and reasonably fit using a sliding rack or
winch or come-along ito load a Teal in a pickup is over-kill ..
Tyson in Galvston


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Heck Patrick, I've already been looking into small hand winch prices
through the surplus stores once I saw the cradel idea. The wheels
sound like a really good idea too.

Tyson,

I was thinking of glue and screw instead of the nails. I tend to
trust screws more. Just got to figure out what I actually need for
lengths so I don't have to much to grind off when they break through.

And yes, I do flag everything I carry that extends beyond the bed.

Steven




--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Patrick Crockett <pcrockett@...> wrote:
>
> I like the cradle idea -- if you gave it some rollers and a pivot
(like
> a Jerr-Dan tow truck bed), you could just back down the ramp and slip
> the boat on and off. Or use little strap-on wheels on one end of the
> boat (like kayakers use) to drag the boat to and from the truck and
slip
> it on and off the truck in the parking lot.
>
> Patrick
>
Another thought...the Teal is a conventional glue and nail boat...there
may be a good reason not to build her as a stitch and glue job, but I can't
think of one...wouldn't need those big old chine logs...save some weight..and as
another poster noted: when building in the shop the Teals seemed huge..found
myself wondering why I was building such a big boat...but get one out in a
big open bay and that perception will be altered significantly....
Tyson in Galveston


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Stephen,

> Also, I do have the 8ft bed in the truck, but I'm not sure I want
to
> have 4 ft of boat hanging out the back. But it may be doable as an
> alternative. Might even build a wooden cradle into the bed and
bolt
> it in for added strength.

I carry a 14' Michalak Robote in the 8' bed of my pickup, and it's
no problem at all. Although I don't have a photo of it to show you,
I made a simple, small rack out of 2x4 stock that holds the bow of
the boat and keeps the boat from sliding out the back. A simple tie
down strap at the back of the bed keeps the boat on the bed and the
bow rack. It's all much simpler than it sounds in this message.

Don't forget that you get about 2' more flat space with the tailgate
down, so you really only have 2' or so of a Teal unsupported. Don't
forget to put a flag on it.

Jon Kolb
www.kolbsadventures.com/boatbuilding_index.htm
I like the cradle idea -- if you gave it some rollers and a pivot (like
a Jerr-Dan tow truck bed), you could just back down the ramp and slip
the boat on and off. Or use little strap-on wheels on one end of the
boat (like kayakers use) to drag the boat to and from the truck and slip
it on and off the truck in the parking lot.

Patrick

Steven DAntonio wrote:
> How car topable (or in my case pickup topable) is the teal? (have
> seen folks who have built Bolger boats in the 11 ft range say they are
> easily car topable. Does the extra ft (with the 12 ft teal) make for
> a big difference to weight or ability to car top? Are there any legal
> limits to the size of car topable boats?
>
> Also, I do have the 8ft bed in the truck, but I'm not sure I want to
> have 4 ft of boat hanging out the back. But it may be doable as an
> alternative. Might even build a wooden cradle into the bed and bolt
> it in for added strength.
>
> Any other ideas or comments are strongly desired.
>
> Steven
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - NO "GO AWAY SPAMMER!" posts!!! Please!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, respamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
Thaks for all the replies.

Kristine I know exactly what you mean about the back. I like the idea
of the cart to go from truch to water. Havent had much use for the
little red waggon I had as a kid, but I know my folks still have it
around and use it for moving heavy stuff from the house to the garden
(or at least did, the garden is how grass, but the waggon still is there).

Chris, I was thinking of going .2 luan anyway, but I was also thinking
of doubling it up on the bottom. I've heard some people complain that
the .2 luan is a bit to flexable (but this is mostly on larger boats
where I hear this complaint).

I think lifting one end into the truck bed, then going to the other
end and sliding it in would be very doable and easy on the back since
I'm never actually lifting the whole thing at once.

Construction begins when the weather clears up.

Anyone have any idea of the paramaters I would want for the sail shape
(the airfoil dimensions) when using sailcut? The clue, luff and leach
are all in the plans, but nothing about he depth of the sail.

thanks again,
Steven
Thanks Tyson,

A picture is definitely worth a thousand words. I see exactly what
you did there.

Steven


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, pgochnour@... wrote:
>
> You could use that aft frame as a kind of pattern, or just pull
the
> sides together until you get the shape you want and make your own
pattern. It
> doesn't have to be heavily reinforced. I would definiately apply
thickend epoxy
> fillets and tape in the inside of the corners, and a couple of
layers of tape
> and epoxy on the outside...There happens to be a photo of that Teal
with the
> transom modification, along with some pics of a couple more of my
grubby little
> boats, on the duckworks site...go to:
> www.duckworksmagazine.com open NEW in the upper left
corner of the
> page, then open May Reports, and scroll down....hey, they may be
ugly, but
> their mine and I love 'em...
> Tyson in Galveston
>
>
> **************************************
> See what's free
> athttp://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
You could use that aft frame as a kind of pattern, or just pull the
sides together until you get the shape you want and make your own pattern. It
doesn't have to be heavily reinforced. I would definiately apply thickend epoxy
fillets and tape in the inside of the corners, and a couple of layers of tape
and epoxy on the outside...There happens to be a photo of that Teal with the
transom modification, along with some pics of a couple more of my grubby little
boats, on the duckworks site...go to:
www.duckworksmagazine.com open NEW in the upper left corner of the
page, then open May Reports, and scroll down....hey, they may be ugly, but
their mine and I love 'em...
Tyson in Galveston


**************************************
See what's free
athttp://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Steven you are also more likely to enjoy useing the
boat if you don't have to fight it to get it to and
from the water....

With a trailer you just hook up and go. Then when you
are done just park it and unhook. The truck is ready
for the Honey Do list.... Or is that you take the boat
out after the Honey Do list is done?

Oh even those of us that are gay or lesbian have a
Honey Do list as well! There is just no getting away
from the Honey Do list if you are a couple married or
not!!

Bright Blessings, Krissie

> Hello Bruce,
>
> Thanks for the reply. I'll probably end up
> overbuilding it too. If I
> can handle it then I'll just haul it around in the
> truck bed as Tyson
> mentioned. If not, I'll get a trailer.
>
> Steven
>
>


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Hey Steven if you don't have a rack of your truck yet
see if you can find one that you can make a part of it
slide out past the truck body so you only have to lift
one end at a time! It will take a bit longer to load
but it will save your back a lot!

Let's face it your back is something you want to
reuse! I messed mine up at about 15 and I have paid
dearly for being dumb as a kid. So if you are going to
cartop or truck top make it so you can do it with out
the need to lift the whole thing at one time.

Also look into a cart to move your boat to the beach
with, and again to save your back.

Blessings Krissie

> I think hauling it around in the bed of the ranger
> would work well
> after all.
>
> I'll definitely have to graduate to the trailer for
> the next boat.
> But old age will catch up with me sooner or later
> and I may pick up
> the trailer sooner than I plan.
>
> Steven
>
>

__________________________________________________
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Hello Bruce,

Thanks for the reply. I'll probably end up overbuilding it too. If I
can handle it then I'll just haul it around in the truck bed as Tyson
mentioned. If not, I'll get a trailer.

Steven
Hello Tyson,

Interesting idea on the transom modification. I just reread Paysons
writeup in instant boats and of course it wouldn't be there since it
was likely a private communication between the two of you. How wide
is the transom you made for it. I would think the easiest way would
be to take the temporary stern frame and use that as the transom
(after attaching a 3/8 ply skin to it), assuming it is wide enough to
add the stability.

I think hauling it around in the bed of the ranger would work well
after all.

I'll definitely have to graduate to the trailer for the next boat.
But old age will catch up with me sooner or later and I may pick up
the trailer sooner than I plan.

Steven


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, pgochnour@... wrote:
>
> Hi Steve...I've built two Teals...the first one fell apart due to
neglect
> on my part and not being properly stored and cared for ( letting
kids play in
> it )...but I liked it so much that when we moved down here to the
coast I
> built another....I modified both boats by building them with a
tombstone-type
> transom which , according to Mr. Payson, makes the boat a bit less
> tender...tender, of course, is a nautical term meaning "easy to turn
over"....it's a
> versatile little craft.. rows fairly well for a sailboat and sails
fairly well for a
> rowboat....I sail it with a lateen sail similar to a Sunfish sail,
though a bit
> smaller...I'm not a skiled or experienced sailor so I err on the
side of
> caution...I hauled mine for years in the back of an F-150...with the
tailgate down
> you don't have all that much sticking out the back..in my younger
days ( when
> I built the first one) I could man-handle the thing in and out of
the truck,
> but have graduated to a trailer .... I think getting it on top of a
vehicle
> would be a real bear..of course if you stand about 6 ft 4 , weigh
about 250 lbs,
> and can press your weight it'd be a snap....or, you could build it with
> lighter materials than the plans call for...or you could invest in a
trailer...
> Tyson in Galveston
>
>
> **************************************
> See what's free
> athttp://www.aol.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
It depends on how heavy you build it! I built my Teal with the
attitude that if: 'some is good then more is better' and I ended up
with a boat weighing perhaps 30 pounds more than necessary. Making my
Teal a real bear to carry and cartop.

Since then, I have been working on honing my skills to build boats
while skimping on weight and have learned that 'stronger is not always
better', at least for cartopping.

Results, my 16 foot 'Cartoon 5' rowboat is lighter and much easier to
cartop than my 12 foot Teal.

In short, make everything as thin and light as possible, and avoid the
'all over' fiberglass. A downside is a less durable boat, but I thank
myself every time I have to carry my boat single handed, and hoist it
on top of the car alone.
Hi Steve...I've built two Teals...the first one fell apart due to neglect
on my part and not being properly stored and cared for ( letting kids play in
it )...but I liked it so much that when we moved down here to the coast I
built another....I modified both boats by building them with a tombstone-type
transom which , according to Mr. Payson, makes the boat a bit less
tender...tender, of course, is a nautical term meaning "easy to turn over"....it's a
versatile little craft.. rows fairly well for a sailboat and sails fairly well for a
rowboat....I sail it with a lateen sail similar to a Sunfish sail, though a bit
smaller...I'm not a skiled or experienced sailor so I err on the side of
caution...I hauled mine for years in the back of an F-150...with the tailgate down
you don't have all that much sticking out the back..in my younger days ( when
I built the first one) I could man-handle the thing in and out of the truck,
but have graduated to a trailer .... I think getting it on top of a vehicle
would be a real bear..of course if you stand about 6 ft 4 , weigh about 250 lbs,
and can press your weight it'd be a snap....or, you could build it with
lighter materials than the plans call for...or you could invest in a trailer...
Tyson in Galveston


**************************************
See what's free
athttp://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
How car topable (or in my case pickup topable) is the teal? (have
seen folks who have built Bolger boats in the 11 ft range say they are
easily car topable. Does the extra ft (with the 12 ft teal) make for
a big difference to weight or ability to car top? Are there any legal
limits to the size of car topable boats?

Also, I do have the 8ft bed in the truck, but I'm not sure I want to
have 4 ft of boat hanging out the back. But it may be doable as an
alternative. Might even build a wooden cradle into the bed and bolt
it in for added strength.

Any other ideas or comments are strongly desired.

Steven
Hi Chester, and Bolgerites!
Just got back to Duluth, MN from my winter cruising in Florida and saw the blogs about trailers. As Chester said, I always tow with an equalizer hitch, but not because of any swaying problem, side to side or up and down. A properly made and balanced trailer, and I always make my own, tracks perfect. The only way to get things in balance is to get it weighed, loaded as you would be for trailering, then take 7 to a max of 10% for the tongue weight. If you do not have the correct tongue weight you have to move the axel/s forward or back until you have the right weight. There is no other practical way to get the right balance. banking on placing stuff in the boat in just the right place to achieve balance is bound to fail. The reason I use the equalizer hitch is to shift part of the load to the forward axel of the tow vehicle, since I am using a front wheel drive for towing. We all know that rear wheel drives are the best, unless you have 4 wheel, but I refuse to own
more the one vehicle and won't have a rear wheel drive because they are inferior in traction to front wheel. UNLESS you have too much weight on the REAR. If I wanted to pay the price of having adjustable rear air shocks put on my van I probably wouldn't need the equalizer hitch, but I am too cheap to spend the money when I already own the hitch:)
A Public THANK YOU to Chester and his wife Susan for allowing me to park my van and trailer in his side yard while cruising the Caloosahatchee River, Pine Island Sound and south to the Ten Thousand Islands in the Everglades. I was going to send this to him alone, but decided to throw this in for all. If you get the chance to cruise the ST Johns River, do so! I have seen many places that appeal to me more as to landscape scenery, but I have never seen so many birds and gators anywhere!! Not even in the Everglades! The Lake Woodruff Wildlife Refuge just south of Lake George is especially wonderful. I also cruised on the Ochlochonee, Sopchoppy, and Crooked Rivers, and went canoeing on the Blackwater River, which is beautiful, but too shallow for anthing else, at least with the present low water that everyplace seems to be having. Now that I"m back I will try to write some articles for MAIB in the near future. I have to get used to having a computer and Internet
access again!

Bob Slimak,
Bantam "Drifter"


---------------------------------
Ahhh...imagining that irresistible "new car" smell?
Check outnew cars at Yahoo! Autos.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
You cand buy the tapers and build your owen axel having the square
tube already. They are pritty cheap at
http://www.surpluscenter.com/home.asp?UID=2004101421590880
and other places.

Jon

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Clyde Wisner <clydewis@...> wrote:
>
> COD, all "Daves Trailers" in Glen Bernie. He has a lot of parts
and
> might be familiar with yours. Clyde
>
> craig o'donnell wrote:
>
> > >Craig:
> > >
> > >I expect you've tried warming the bearing with a torch? And
banging it
> > >with a cold chisel? You don't care about destroying the bearing
at this
> > >point, just getting it off.
> > >
> > >Patrick
> >
> > Yep. Everything short of a cutting torch, including my auto
mechanic's
> > press. It's welded itself on. The other bearing came off after
some
> > persuasion.
> >
> > I guess thes Highlander trailers with the short axle were
somewhat unique.
> >
> > >
> > >craig o'donnell wrote:
> > >> I've got a "Highlander" trailer I inherited with a 44-inch
axle (U
> > channel
> > >> with stub axles). One bearing has resisted all attempts to
pull it,
> > it's
> > >> damned well seized, and I'm having trouble locating another 44-
inch
> > axle
> > >> with the spindles already on it.
> > >>
> > >> Anyone have likely sources?
> > >>
> > >> Lacking that it's going to be off to the welder's with new
stub axles.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> >
> > --
> > Craig O'Donnell
> > Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
> > <http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/
> > <http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/%7Efassitt/>>
> > The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html
> > <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>>
> > The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/
> > <http://www.friend.ly.net/%7Edadadata/>>
> > Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
> > American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
> > Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
> > _________________________________
> >
> > -- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
> > -- Macintosh kinda guy
> > Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
> > _________________________________
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
Not sure if this would help. Once at the shop I had to remove a press
fitted rotor from a tapered shaft. Nothing worked. Heat, bearing
pullers, you name it. Called the company. They told me to really heat
the rotor and then have someone wrap a bag full of ice around the
shaft. Thing popped off in my hands.

Bryant

--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, craig o'donnell <dadadata@...> wrote:
>
> >Craig:
> >
> >I expect you've tried warming the bearing with a torch? And banging it
> >with a cold chisel? You don't care about destroying the bearing at this
> >point, just getting it off.
> >
> >Patrick
>
> Yep. Everything short of a cutting torch, including my auto mechanic's
> press. It's welded itself on. The other bearing came off after some
> persuasion.
>
> I guess thes Highlander trailers with the short axle were somewhat
unique.
>
>
> >
> >craig o'donnell wrote:
> >> I've got a "Highlander" trailer I inherited with a 44-inch axle
(U channel
> >> with stub axles). One bearing has resisted all attempts to pull
it, it's
> >> damned well seized, and I'm having trouble locating another
44-inch axle
> >> with the spindles already on it.
> >>
> >> Anyone have likely sources?
> >>
> >> Lacking that it's going to be off to the welder's with new stub
axles.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Craig O'Donnell
> Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
> <http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
> The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
> The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
> Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
> American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
> Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
> _________________________________
>
> -- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
> -- Macintosh kinda guy
> Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
> _________________________________
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
COD, all "Daves Trailers" in Glen Bernie. He has a lot of parts and
might be familiar with yours. Clyde

craig o'donnell wrote:

> >Craig:
> >
> >I expect you've tried warming the bearing with a torch? And banging it
> >with a cold chisel? You don't care about destroying the bearing at this
> >point, just getting it off.
> >
> >Patrick
>
> Yep. Everything short of a cutting torch, including my auto mechanic's
> press. It's welded itself on. The other bearing came off after some
> persuasion.
>
> I guess thes Highlander trailers with the short axle were somewhat unique.
>
> >
> >craig o'donnell wrote:
> >> I've got a "Highlander" trailer I inherited with a 44-inch axle (U
> channel
> >> with stub axles). One bearing has resisted all attempts to pull it,
> it's
> >> damned well seized, and I'm having trouble locating another 44-inch
> axle
> >> with the spindles already on it.
> >>
> >> Anyone have likely sources?
> >>
> >> Lacking that it's going to be off to the welder's with new stub axles.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
> --
> Craig O'Donnell
> Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
> <http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/
> <http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/%7Efassitt/>>
> The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html
> <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>>
> The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/
> <http://www.friend.ly.net/%7Edadadata/>>
> Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
> American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
> Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
> _________________________________
>
> -- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
> -- Macintosh kinda guy
> Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
> _________________________________
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>Craig:
>
>I expect you've tried warming the bearing with a torch? And banging it
>with a cold chisel? You don't care about destroying the bearing at this
>point, just getting it off.
>
>Patrick

Yep. Everything short of a cutting torch, including my auto mechanic's
press. It's welded itself on. The other bearing came off after some
persuasion.

I guess thes Highlander trailers with the short axle were somewhat unique.


>
>craig o'donnell wrote:
>> I've got a "Highlander" trailer I inherited with a 44-inch axle (U channel
>> with stub axles). One bearing has resisted all attempts to pull it, it's
>> damned well seized, and I'm having trouble locating another 44-inch axle
>> with the spindles already on it.
>>
>> Anyone have likely sources?
>>
>> Lacking that it's going to be off to the welder's with new stub axles.
>>
>>
>
>


--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________

-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Craig:

I expect you've tried warming the bearing with a torch? And banging it
with a cold chisel? You don't care about destroying the bearing at this
point, just getting it off.

Patrick

craig o'donnell wrote:
> I've got a "Highlander" trailer I inherited with a 44-inch axle (U channel
> with stub axles). One bearing has resisted all attempts to pull it, it's
> damned well seized, and I'm having trouble locating another 44-inch axle
> with the spindles already on it.
>
> Anyone have likely sources?
>
> Lacking that it's going to be off to the welder's with new stub axles.
>
>
>Will a slightly longer axle work? I am finding a lot of 60 inchers on
>Northern Tool.

60's a lot longer than 44, that's the trouble.

>HJ
>
>craig o'donnell wrote:
>> I've got a "Highlander" trailer I inherited with a 44-inch axle (U channel
>> with stub axles). One bearing has resisted all attempts to pull it, it's
>> damned well seized, and I'm having trouble locating another 44-inch axle
>> with the spindles already on it.
>>
>> Anyone have likely sources?
>>
>> Lacking that it's going to be off to the welder's with new stub axles.
>>
>>
>
>


--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________

-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Will a slightly longer axle work? I am finding a lot of 60 inchers on
Northern Tool.

HJ

craig o'donnell wrote:
> I've got a "Highlander" trailer I inherited with a 44-inch axle (U channel
> with stub axles). One bearing has resisted all attempts to pull it, it's
> damned well seized, and I'm having trouble locating another 44-inch axle
> with the spindles already on it.
>
> Anyone have likely sources?
>
> Lacking that it's going to be off to the welder's with new stub axles.
>
>
I've got a "Highlander" trailer I inherited with a 44-inch axle (U channel
with stub axles). One bearing has resisted all attempts to pull it, it's
damned well seized, and I'm having trouble locating another 44-inch axle
with the spindles already on it.

Anyone have likely sources?

Lacking that it's going to be off to the welder's with new stub axles.

--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________

-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
This is also strongly effected by the weight of the load and trailer. This
is the limiting factor in weight rating. I had a 600 pound boat on a
trailer with 13" wheels. It could go 200 miles at interstate speed with no
trouble.

V/R
Chris

snip...
Trailers are wonderful gadgets...but remember...the smaller the wheel
,
the smaller the tire, the faster it has to turn to cover a given piece of
ground, so the faster it spins on the bearings, and the hotter they will
become... twelve inches is a mighty small wheel, but it should be okay if
you don't
have to haul your boat very far or very fast...
Old Wharf Rat
snip...
Trailers are wonderful gadgets...but remember...the smaller the wheel ,
the smaller the tire, the faster it has to turn to cover a given piece of
ground, so the faster it spins on the bearings, and the hotter they will
become... twelve inches is a mighty small wheel, but it should be okay if you don't
have to haul your boat very far or very fast...
Old Wharf Rat


**************************************
See what's free at
http://www.aol.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The larger utility trailer could be adapted. How did you extend the
tongue?

David Jost "Taxachusetts"
>
> --- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Glen
> Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
> >
> > David and all,
> >
> > I did some research for a trailer for my Micro (launching this
> spring,
> > hopefully), and this was one of the best deals I found. Probably
> > several could be made to work . . . .
The cost is the same as the Northern, but this trailer holds more
weight and is very adaptable to a number of projects. I have seen one
before that was used by a boatyard to haul floats and other stuff
around. Too bad it floats, I wonder how much weight it takes to sink
it. Maybe a couple of well placed cinder blocks would do it?
David Jost


> Made of wood and a sturdy booger it would be. I bought the plans
and
> this trailer would be fairly simple to build. Cost would come in at
> about the same as Northerns so unless you want a classic old timey
> look, you may be better off buying.
> No, I haven't built it yet.
> Gives you another avenue to look at.
> Rich
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Ann Romanczuk" <kwilson800@a...> wrote:
> > FWIW, here's another relatively inexpensive trailer source, also
> good
> > for parts if you want to build your own. I modified the small
> $160
> > trailer for a Gypsy (longer tongue and wooden bunks).
> >
> >http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-
> > bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/category/NTE_subfeature.d2w/report?
> > cgrfnbr=166839&cgmenbr=6970&PHOTOS=on
> >
> >
> > --- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Glen
> > Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
> > >
> > > David and all,
> > >
> > > I did some research for a trailer for my Micro (launching this
> > spring,
> > > hopefully), and this was one of the best deals I found.
Probably
> > > several could be made to work . . . .
Yes Peter,

I concur. There needs to be a match between the boat and the
trailer to prevent damage to the boat, and to enable safe travel.
Micro weighs between 800-900lbs. depending on internal gear,
therefore a trailer rated for this weight range is appropriate. From
what I have seen, the UPS shippable trailers do not carry this weight
.

I will probably take Greg's suggestion of modifying a flatbed for the
purpose, although the boat will be higher off the ground than intended
and will make launch and retrieval slightly more difficult. the other
option is to modify a powerboat trailer. I have found one for $350
that may be suitable.

I wish the photo of the Oldshoe trailer were bigger, I would like to
see how the bunk arrangement was done.

David Jost

>
> The heavier the rated load, the stiffer the springs. If you put a
> light boat on a trailer rated for a bigger load, it may take a
> beating. It won't be heavy enough to flex the springs.
>
> Peter
Hmm. . . Maybe that picture of Washington crossing the Delaware in a
boat is a farce. If you account for global warming, the possibility
is that he simply walked across! If he had a Micro, he could have
arrived in style, carried 3 friends with him, and simply have stepped
off over the bow. Kevlar glass, and it would have been bullet proof!

David Jost "just getting plain silly"


>
> Note the snow. The Delaware is pretty much frozen across here in
> Philly. I think that they cancelled the Washington Crossing the
> Delaware reenactment this year due to ice. It has not been this
cold
> in years. I have had to seek out increasingly brackish waters each
> week in which to paddle or sail. I'll have to go way down the bay
> tomorrow. Actually, I think I'll just stay home and watch the
Eagles.
>
> Regards,
>
> Andy Farquhar
I uploaded a picture of my Oldshoe "Jersey Girl" aka "Greenhead" on
its trailer into the files. I apologize for the tiny pic, but I am a
complete web novice.

I bought the trailer used, took off the rollers and made bunks out of
4x4s and 2x6s - covered with stair tread carpet. i have not launched
yet, but the thing has a long tongue and I expect no problems. The
trailer actually expands to take an 18' or so boat. So, with my
wife's (the boat's namesake) indulgence, I already have a trailer for
my next project.

Note the snow. The Delaware is pretty much frozen across here in
Philly. I think that they cancelled the Washington Crossing the
Delaware reenactment this year due to ice. It has not been this cold
in years. I have had to seek out increasingly brackish waters each
week in which to paddle or sail. I'll have to go way down the bay
tomorrow. Actually, I think I'll just stay home and watch the Eagles.

Regards,

Andy Farquhar
Glen:

If you live in or near Ohio check out the auctions on E-bay. Someone
is seling bunch for 150-250.

I have built a Bolger Oldshoe and bought a used trailer from nearby.
The lights and tires were shot so I replaced these. Trailer light
kits and tires are pretty cheap. Also, the trailer I bought had
rollers and was built for a power boat. I took off the rollers and
attached homemade bunks made from 2x6s.

Regards, Andy Farquhar
If you feel like building your own, try
http://www.stevproj.com/SpecPurp.html
Made of wood and a sturdy booger it would be. I bought the plans and
this trailer would be fairly simple to build. Cost would come in at
about the same as Northerns so unless you want a classic old timey
look, you may be better off buying.
No, I haven't built it yet.
Gives you another avenue to look at.
Rich




--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Ann Romanczuk" <kwilson800@a...> wrote:
> FWIW, here's another relatively inexpensive trailer source, also
good
> for parts if you want to build your own. I modified the small
$160
> trailer for a Gypsy (longer tongue and wooden bunks).
>
>http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-
> bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/category/NTE_subfeature.d2w/report?
> cgrfnbr=166839&cgmenbr=6970&PHOTOS=on
>
>
> --- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Glen
> Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
> >
> > David and all,
> >
> > I did some research for a trailer for my Micro (launching this
> spring,
> > hopefully), and this was one of the best deals I found. Probably
> > several could be made to work . . . .
> I'm probably going to go for a 2000 pound trailer, as boats always
get
> heavier over time (stuff, not waterlogged) and everything I read
about
> trailers indicates the bigger the wheels, the better they ride and
last.

The heavier the rated load, the stiffer the springs. If you put a
light boat on a trailer rated for a bigger load, it may take a
beating. It won't be heavy enough to flex the springs.

Peter
FWIW, here's another relatively inexpensive trailer source, also good
for parts if you want to build your own. I modified the small $160
trailer for a Gypsy (longer tongue and wooden bunks).

http://www.northerntool.com/cgi-
bin/ncommerce3/ExecMacro/category/NTE_subfeature.d2w/report?
cgrfnbr=166839&cgmenbr=6970&PHOTOS=on


--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Glen
Gibson" <glen@i...> wrote:
>
> David and all,
>
> I did some research for a trailer for my Micro (launching this
spring,
> hopefully), and this was one of the best deals I found. Probably
> several could be made to work . . . .
David and all,

I did some research for a trailer for my Micro (launching this spring,
hopefully), and this was one of the best deals I found. Probably
several could be made to work.

http://www.magnetatrailers.com/and go to "New Products" to see pictures
of the boat trailers. This is some information that someone there sent
me, hope it helps. Oh yes, and they ship these things UPS, freight
included in the price!!!

This is the way I'm probably going to go when the time comes, I too am
more interested in working on the boat than on building a trailer ;-)
I'm probably going to go for a 2000 pound trailer, as boats always get
heavier over time (stuff, not waterlogged) and everything I read about
trailers indicates the bigger the wheels, the better they ride and last.


UFB SERIES BOAT TRAILERS

UFB1------$499.00 UFB5214HD---$809.00 UFB5218HD----$849.00
UFB6417HD----$989.00
UFB5212----$759.00 UFB5216-----$799.00 UFB6415-----$859.00
UFB6417XHD---$1049.00
UFB5212HD--$799.00 UFB5216HD---$829.00 UFB6415HD----$979.00
UFB6419-----
$1019.00
UFB5214----$769.00 UFB5218-----$809.00 UFB6417-----$869.00
UFB6419HD---$1099.00
UFB SERIES TRAILER OPTIONS
#WGR8 8 ROLLER OPTION---$149.00 #WGR16 16 ROLLER
OPTION---$299.00
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PROTECTORS---$ 8.95 pr.

>UFB6415 1650 carry cap
>UFB6415HD 2250 carry cap.
>UFB6417 1650 carry cap.
>UFB6417HD 2250 carry cap.
>UFB6417XHD 2650 carry cap
>UFB6419 2250 carry cap
>UFB6419HD 265.0 carry cap
>
>Also, I assume the 64" referred to is between the wheels? Or is it
overall
>width? YES THAT IS THE WIDTH BETWEEN FENDERS ADD 18" FOR THE OVERALL
WIDTH.


TRAILER ASSECCORIES

MCK1 ---$249.00 WCK1---$199.00 MSG1---$69.00
WGR2---$69.00
each
TSG1----$ 61.00 WBK2---$119.00 MSG2---$99.00
WGR4---$109.50 each
TSG3----$139.00 WSK3---$ 99.00

ALL PRICES SHOWN INCLUDE THE FREIGHT CHARGES INSIDE THE CONTINENTAL
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WE ACCEPT VISA, MASTERCARD AND DISCOVER CREDIT CARDS
ORDERS ARE GENERALLY SHIPPED IN 2 TO 4 DAYS. TRAILERS ARE SHIPPED VIA
THE
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CALL 1-800-397-3819 TOLL FREE TO PLACE YOUR ORDER!!


Regards,

Glen