Re: ballast tanks
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "edward haile" <ewhaile@h...> wrote:
Resistant Silicone as "Also excellent gasket adhesive and formed-in-
place gasket material." Their Strip-Calk listed as "soft, non-
hardening, waterproof and will not shrink" might also serve for a do-
it-yourself gasket. I suspect either material could be used with
Carron's clever method.
Have fun, John
> I know about sealants, but I'm looking for a gasket. I want thetops
> to be convenient to remove by merely unscrewing or unbolting.For what it's worth, the 3M catalog lists their Marine Grade Mildew
Resistant Silicone as "Also excellent gasket adhesive and formed-in-
place gasket material." Their Strip-Calk listed as "soft, non-
hardening, waterproof and will not shrink" might also serve for a do-
it-yourself gasket. I suspect either material could be used with
Carron's clever method.
Have fun, John
I used to dry boots by inserting an air hose from a cheapo aquarium
pump into the toes. Would probably work to dry tanks, I bet,
particularly if you used a GOOD aquarium pump. Requires electricity,
unfortunately.
pump into the toes. Would probably work to dry tanks, I bet,
particularly if you used a GOOD aquarium pump. Requires electricity,
unfortunately.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "edward haile" <ewhaile@h...> wrote:
> I know about sealants, but I'm looking for a gasket. I want the tops
> to be convenient to remove by merely unscrewing or unbolting. I am
> thinking of a refrigerator door. The reason is that when I removed
> the tops this time, I found wet wood. I think Anderson is right
about
> the danger, but I think a good solution for those who want to retain
> the water ballast option (in all climates) is to be able not merely
> to drain but to dry ballast tanks.
>
> As for the breather valve planned by Gerty, my boat has a 5ft hose
> running from the outside corner of the tank to the top of the
cockpit
> wall with a not-quite-airtight screw plug there. Nothing flows out,
> regardless how the boat is heeled or listing, and it allows
expansion
> & contraction of contents. It doubles, of course, as a means of
> filling and emptying with a pump attachment.
>
>
> ED HAILE
>
> --- Inbolger@egroups.com, "edward haile" <ewhaile@h...> wrote:
> > The tops of my Martha Jane ballast tanks were permanently
attached,
> > but one developed a leak. So, I have removed both tops to replace
> the
> > arrangement with tank tops that are screwed down and easily
> removable
> > on a seasonal basis. I like having the access to all parts of the
> > hull, inside and out.
> >
> > My question is, what would make a good, longlasting, waterproof
> > gasket? How about ordinary closed cell weather stripping, sticky
on
> > one side? Obviously on a ballast tank, the material will have no
UV
> > exposure.
> >
> > ED HAILE
I know about sealants, but I'm looking for a gasket. I want the tops
to be convenient to remove by merely unscrewing or unbolting. I am
thinking of a refrigerator door. The reason is that when I removed
the tops this time, I found wet wood. I think Anderson is right about
the danger, but I think a good solution for those who want to retain
the water ballast option (in all climates) is to be able not merely
to drain but to dry ballast tanks.
As for the breather valve planned by Gerty, my boat has a 5ft hose
running from the outside corner of the tank to the top of the cockpit
wall with a not-quite-airtight screw plug there. Nothing flows out,
regardless how the boat is heeled or listing, and it allows expansion
& contraction of contents. It doubles, of course, as a means of
filling and emptying with a pump attachment.
ED HAILE
to be convenient to remove by merely unscrewing or unbolting. I am
thinking of a refrigerator door. The reason is that when I removed
the tops this time, I found wet wood. I think Anderson is right about
the danger, but I think a good solution for those who want to retain
the water ballast option (in all climates) is to be able not merely
to drain but to dry ballast tanks.
As for the breather valve planned by Gerty, my boat has a 5ft hose
running from the outside corner of the tank to the top of the cockpit
wall with a not-quite-airtight screw plug there. Nothing flows out,
regardless how the boat is heeled or listing, and it allows expansion
& contraction of contents. It doubles, of course, as a means of
filling and emptying with a pump attachment.
ED HAILE
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "edward haile" <ewhaile@h...> wrote:
> The tops of my Martha Jane ballast tanks were permanently attached,
> but one developed a leak. So, I have removed both tops to replace
the
> arrangement with tank tops that are screwed down and easily
removable
> on a seasonal basis. I like having the access to all parts of the
> hull, inside and out.
>
> My question is, what would make a good, longlasting, waterproof
> gasket? How about ordinary closed cell weather stripping, sticky on
> one side? Obviously on a ballast tank, the material will have no UV
> exposure.
>
> ED HAILE
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "edward haile" <ewhaile@h...> wrote:
tank covers just in case access might be needed. The covers were
attached with screws and silicone sealant. A couple of years ago the
starboard tank developed an 'oozing" leak around the outboard edge. I
removed and replaced the cover using 3M Marine Silicone Sealant.
The original seal was still tenacious enough to be hard to remove
without damaging the cover along one edge. So far no leakage at all
from the port tank. I can live with one small nuisance leak in one
tank over ten years even if I might have to make a new cover, and I
would expect silicone seals to be easier to remove than the stronger
structural adhesives. When we talked at St. M. in October I think I
also mentioned my intention (still not done) to add a valved vent for
flooding and draining and to provide a small air cushion for thermal
expansion. That should reduce stress on the seal.
John Gerty (MJ Zephyr)
> The tops of my Martha Jane ballast tanks were permanently attached,Hi Ed, Richard Cullison built Zephyr in 1990 with removable ballast
> but one developed a leak. So, I have removed both tops ....
>
> My question is, what would make a good, longlasting, waterproof
> gasket?
tank covers just in case access might be needed. The covers were
attached with screws and silicone sealant. A couple of years ago the
starboard tank developed an 'oozing" leak around the outboard edge. I
removed and replaced the cover using 3M Marine Silicone Sealant.
The original seal was still tenacious enough to be hard to remove
without damaging the cover along one edge. So far no leakage at all
from the port tank. I can live with one small nuisance leak in one
tank over ten years even if I might have to make a new cover, and I
would expect silicone seals to be easier to remove than the stronger
structural adhesives. When we talked at St. M. in October I think I
also mentioned my intention (still not done) to add a valved vent for
flooding and draining and to provide a small air cushion for thermal
expansion. That should reduce stress on the seal.
John Gerty (MJ Zephyr)
In a message dated 1/18/2001 12:45:56 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ewhaile@...writes:
<< The tops of my Martha Jane ballast tanks were permanently attached,
but one developed a leak. So, I have removed both tops to replace the
arrangement with tank tops that are screwed down and easily removable
on a seasonal basis. I like having the access to all parts of the
hull, inside and out.
My question is, what would make a good, longlasting, waterproof
gasket? >>
I wonder if 4200 might do the trick? My ballast tanks hold sand and lead and
I used 4200 to seal them up anyway - and once had to open them up and it was
hard to do - ( screws too of course). Were the tanks glassed inside?
Leaks - being in the sub tropics that was my fear and that was why I opted
for solid ballast.
We are very happy with our sponsons - increased ballast and dual rudders.
Steve Anderson ( MJ Landroval)
ewhaile@...writes:
<< The tops of my Martha Jane ballast tanks were permanently attached,
but one developed a leak. So, I have removed both tops to replace the
arrangement with tank tops that are screwed down and easily removable
on a seasonal basis. I like having the access to all parts of the
hull, inside and out.
My question is, what would make a good, longlasting, waterproof
gasket? >>
I wonder if 4200 might do the trick? My ballast tanks hold sand and lead and
I used 4200 to seal them up anyway - and once had to open them up and it was
hard to do - ( screws too of course). Were the tanks glassed inside?
Leaks - being in the sub tropics that was my fear and that was why I opted
for solid ballast.
We are very happy with our sponsons - increased ballast and dual rudders.
Steve Anderson ( MJ Landroval)
The tops of my Martha Jane ballast tanks were permanently attached,
but one developed a leak. So, I have removed both tops to replace the
arrangement with tank tops that are screwed down and easily removable
on a seasonal basis. I like having the access to all parts of the
hull, inside and out.
My question is, what would make a good, longlasting, waterproof
gasket? How about ordinary closed cell weather stripping, sticky on
one side? Obviously on a ballast tank, the material will have no UV
exposure.
ED HAILE
but one developed a leak. So, I have removed both tops to replace the
arrangement with tank tops that are screwed down and easily removable
on a seasonal basis. I like having the access to all parts of the
hull, inside and out.
My question is, what would make a good, longlasting, waterproof
gasket? How about ordinary closed cell weather stripping, sticky on
one side? Obviously on a ballast tank, the material will have no UV
exposure.
ED HAILE