[bolger] Re: Boatbuilding...sort of
I appreciate the input. I hadn't thought of beveling the outer third the way
you mention. That would look pretty neat. But it might preclude my favorite
method of having a square edge to run my router around to cut the final shape
of the deck after its has been attached. I have looked at Patrick Crockett's
pics alot. It looks like he went the recessed route (and it really does look
nice). I'm pretty sure I'd screw this up badly.
I think I have enough stock left to do the inside strake beveled. Since I have
a Table Saw, its really a matter of setting up (finger boards, infeed roller
stand).It'll be a little thicker, but these things look to be easy to bend
around the hull. Then I'll add the two remaining strakes and the Gunwale will
finish square.
I've thought about using the hull forms as the bulkheads. What I really want
to do is hide the buttstraps, so there is likely going to be some cut & fit.
Also, I've toyed with the idea if building my mast partner differently, since
I'll have that deck to fastern things to.
Once you start to modify any of these seemingly small details, you really slow
yourself down. Part of it is the thinking through process, the other is the
lack of a scaled plan for an idiot like me to follow. Just going to a 1/2 inch
bottom with the "square scarf" added significant time to my building process.
If I didn't have my angle grinder to get the right bevel on that 1/2" bottom
after attaching it and routing square, I'd still be sanding.
BTW, what did you decide to build, the IMB?
Robert Lundy
Quoting John Bell <jmbell@...>:
St. Petersburg, Fla.
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you mention. That would look pretty neat. But it might preclude my favorite
method of having a square edge to run my router around to cut the final shape
of the deck after its has been attached. I have looked at Patrick Crockett's
pics alot. It looks like he went the recessed route (and it really does look
nice). I'm pretty sure I'd screw this up badly.
I think I have enough stock left to do the inside strake beveled. Since I have
a Table Saw, its really a matter of setting up (finger boards, infeed roller
stand).It'll be a little thicker, but these things look to be easy to bend
around the hull. Then I'll add the two remaining strakes and the Gunwale will
finish square.
I've thought about using the hull forms as the bulkheads. What I really want
to do is hide the buttstraps, so there is likely going to be some cut & fit.
Also, I've toyed with the idea if building my mast partner differently, since
I'll have that deck to fastern things to.
Once you start to modify any of these seemingly small details, you really slow
yourself down. Part of it is the thinking through process, the other is the
lack of a scaled plan for an idiot like me to follow. Just going to a 1/2 inch
bottom with the "square scarf" added significant time to my building process.
If I didn't have my angle grinder to get the right bevel on that 1/2" bottom
after attaching it and routing square, I'd still be sanding.
BTW, what did you decide to build, the IMB?
Robert Lundy
Quoting John Bell <jmbell@...>:
>Robert N. Lundy
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Robert N. Lundy <rlundy@...>
> To: <bolger@egroups.com>
> Sent: Saturday, November 27, 1999 8:06 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Boatbuilding...sort of
>
>
> > I was lucky and found some 18' ft fir 2X4s to get the wales out of.
> Which
> > brings me to why I've been putting this off.
> >
> > I want some decking fore and aft as bouyancy chambers, maybe foam, maybe
> > just airtight with screw in access ports. anyway, the problem is with
> these
> > 5/8 x 1 1/2 triple wales. If I install them per the plan, the amount of
> > curvature in the deck will (I think) spoil the lines somewhat. Plus I'LL
> > have to figure out the curve in the deck beam. If I do flat decks, I'll
> > have to go back and make more looonngg cuts to get a bevel right
>
>
> I never built the float tanks on my Windsprint so take this for what it's
> worth:
>
> I'll send you a JPG off list that may give you one answer, provided you
> feel
> up to cutting those long bevels. Simply put you need to cut bevels one
> side
> of on the inner and outer strakes of the wales only. Since Windsprint has a
> constant 15 degree flare along the length of the topsides, make those
> bevels
> 15 degrees. Install the inner strake with the bevel up, then and unbevelled
> strake, followed by the outer strake with the beveled down. This makes a
> nice looking "flange" gunwale. It will give a flat to stick decks to and
> allow you to use recessed oarlock sockets. My dory has a similar gunwale,
> but only two strakes. The long bevels were easy since they were cut before
> I
> scarfed them together. Ripping an eight foot board is a lot easier than one
> twice that long, I know.
>
> Another option is to recess the decks. You can either rip a short clamp to
> mount on the inside of the hull to screw and glue to, or install them with
> epoxy fillets and glass tape. Personally, I think the recessed decks will
> look the best, but be the hardest to fit. If you use the flange method
> described above, you could scribe the decks before attaching the two outer
> strakes. This would save a lot of fiddling with the fit. (You could even
> use
> the router method to cut them out.) If you recess the decks, plan on
> spending a lot of time cutting the decks to exactly the right shape.
>
> In either case, I'd use the forward and aft molds as your bulkheads.
>
> Best,
>
> John Bell
> Kennesaw, GA
>jmbell@...
>http://jmbell.home.mindspring.com
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Accurate impartial advice on everything from laptops to tablesaws.
>http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/1701
>
>
>
> -- 20 megs of disk space in your group's Document Vault
> --http://www.egroups.com/docvault/bolger/?m=1
>
>
St. Petersburg, Fla.
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----- Original Message -----
From: Robert N. Lundy <rlundy@...>
To: <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 27, 1999 8:06 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Boatbuilding...sort of
> I was lucky and found some 18' ft fir 2X4s to get the wales out of. Which
> brings me to why I've been putting this off.
>
> I want some decking fore and aft as bouyancy chambers, maybe foam, maybe
> just airtight with screw in access ports. anyway, the problem is with
these
> 5/8 x 1 1/2 triple wales. If I install them per the plan, the amount of
> curvature in the deck will (I think) spoil the lines somewhat. Plus I'LL
> have to figure out the curve in the deck beam. If I do flat decks, I'll
> have to go back and make more looonngg cuts to get a bevel right
I never built the float tanks on my Windsprint so take this for what it's
worth:
I'll send you a JPG off list that may give you one answer, provided you feel
up to cutting those long bevels. Simply put you need to cut bevels one side
of on the inner and outer strakes of the wales only. Since Windsprint has a
constant 15 degree flare along the length of the topsides, make those bevels
15 degrees. Install the inner strake with the bevel up, then and unbevelled
strake, followed by the outer strake with the beveled down. This makes a
nice looking "flange" gunwale. It will give a flat to stick decks to and
allow you to use recessed oarlock sockets. My dory has a similar gunwale,
but only two strakes. The long bevels were easy since they were cut before I
scarfed them together. Ripping an eight foot board is a lot easier than one
twice that long, I know.
Another option is to recess the decks. You can either rip a short clamp to
mount on the inside of the hull to screw and glue to, or install them with
epoxy fillets and glass tape. Personally, I think the recessed decks will
look the best, but be the hardest to fit. If you use the flange method
described above, you could scribe the decks before attaching the two outer
strakes. This would save a lot of fiddling with the fit. (You could even use
the router method to cut them out.) If you recess the decks, plan on
spending a lot of time cutting the decks to exactly the right shape.
In either case, I'd use the forward and aft molds as your bulkheads.
Best,
John Bell
Kennesaw, GA
jmbell@...
http://jmbell.home.mindspring.com
I was lucky and found some 18' ft fir 2X4s to get the wales out of. Which
brings me to why I've been putting this off.
I want some decking fore and aft as bouyancy chambers, maybe foam, maybe
just airtight with screw in access ports. anyway, the problem is with these
5/8 x 1 1/2 triple wales. If I install them per the plan, the amount of
curvature in the deck will (I think) spoil the lines somewhat. Plus I'LL
have to figure out the curve in the deck beam. If I do flat decks, I'll
have to go back and make more looonngg cuts to get a bevel right. If I
don't bevel both sides (the narrow top and bottom of the wale, the wale will
end up looking weird. I may have enough stock to make one each thicker than
5/8 with a bevel to bring the wale structure out level after adding the
already cut pieces. Anyway, its why I've been putting this off. I really
like the way flat decks look on the Bobcats I've seen in pictures.
I did glass the bottom today. looks pretty good. I'll have at least one
deblush and sand session before finally getting the weave all "disappeared
at the chines. just like all the books (and everyone whos done it) says,
just when you think it looks great, you notice that the edge grain has
sucked up some more and the weave is showing again.
Robert Lundy
brings me to why I've been putting this off.
I want some decking fore and aft as bouyancy chambers, maybe foam, maybe
just airtight with screw in access ports. anyway, the problem is with these
5/8 x 1 1/2 triple wales. If I install them per the plan, the amount of
curvature in the deck will (I think) spoil the lines somewhat. Plus I'LL
have to figure out the curve in the deck beam. If I do flat decks, I'll
have to go back and make more looonngg cuts to get a bevel right. If I
don't bevel both sides (the narrow top and bottom of the wale, the wale will
end up looking weird. I may have enough stock to make one each thicker than
5/8 with a bevel to bring the wale structure out level after adding the
already cut pieces. Anyway, its why I've been putting this off. I really
like the way flat decks look on the Bobcats I've seen in pictures.
I did glass the bottom today. looks pretty good. I'll have at least one
deblush and sand session before finally getting the weave all "disappeared
at the chines. just like all the books (and everyone whos done it) says,
just when you think it looks great, you notice that the edge grain has
sucked up some more and the weave is showing again.
Robert Lundy
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Bell [mailto:jmbell@...]
> Sent: 26 November, 1999 11:57 PM
> To:bolger@egroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Boatbuilding...sort of
>
>
> Moving boats around...
>
> Always a problem for me. Once I put a boat on a mechanics creeper
> to move it
> outside for sanding. Big mistake. A mechanic creeper has no directional
> stability, especially on a grade. It can't be turned, it only
> goes down hill
> and always into the most expensive thing at the bottom of the ill, like my
> new car. Live and learn... sigh.
>
> The next boat is in the planning stages at this moment. It is
> very apparent
> that a mobile building cradle is an imperative since this boat
> will consume
> more wood than both of my other boats combined. It will be too
> heavy to pick
> up an carry.
>
> Re your Windsprint gunwales: The wales were my least favorite part of the
> assembly process. My advice, take your time and stick on one course at a
> time, alternating sides. Plan on at least three work sessions to get them
> on. If you have not already figured it out, they need to be about 17' long
> so a little scarfing is in order. If you don't already have about 20
> C-clamps, make up a bunch of PVC pipe clamps before you start. Have fun!
>
> John Bell
> Kennesaw, GA
>jmbell@...
>http://jmbell.home.mindspring.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Robert N. Lundy <rlundy@...>
> To: A-Bolger List <bolger@egroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, November 26, 1999 9:36 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Boatbuilding...sort of
>
>
> > I spent the first three hours of boatbuilding today building a cart to
> > easily move the Windsprint in and out of the garage for the
> really messing
> > sanding steps that seem to occur with great frequency now that
> the hull is
> > together. Haven't seen much discussion about moving the boats
> around for
> > this type of thing. My cart is a 8'X40" ladder frame with some cheap
> > casters from Lowes and cross pieces at each end to support the
> boat (about
> > $38 worth of stuff). In an absolute fit of creativity, I screwed some
> > stranglely shaped plywood scraps to the crossmembers in the ladder frame
> > and, voila', a tool shelf for all the power tools. I can roll the thing
> out
> > of my garage and be working away in about 2 minutes this way. Makes it
> alot
> > easier to do little jobs at night after work. As soon as the film gets
> > developed I'll put up some pics of the cart on my website for
> anyone with
> > similar problems moving the boat around.
> >
> > I used some of the pre-thickened epoxy putty (microballoons) from
> Fiberglass
> > Coatings today for the first time. A little harder to mix at 2:1 as
> opposed
> > to the prethickened adhesive at 1:1. But really nice to patch
> holes left
> by
> > drywall screws etc. I'm hoping to get the stem/sternpost
> glassed tomorrow
> > and finish sanding down the bottom edges to the same angle as
> the chines.
> > then it'll be time to do the gunwales.
> >
> > Robert Lundy
> >http://members.xoom.com/flboatyard
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Accurate impartial advice on everything from laptops to tablesaws.
> >http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/1701
> >
> >
> >
> > -- Check out your group's private Chat room
> > --http://www.egroups.com/ChatPage?listName=bolger&m=1
> >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Was the salesman clueless? Productopia has the answers.
>http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/1702
>
>
>
> -- Easily schedule meetings and events using the group calendar!
> --http://www.egroups.com/cal?listname=bolger&m=1
>
>
Moving boats around...
Always a problem for me. Once I put a boat on a mechanics creeper to move it
outside for sanding. Big mistake. A mechanic creeper has no directional
stability, especially on a grade. It can't be turned, it only goes down hill
and always into the most expensive thing at the bottom of the ill, like my
new car. Live and learn... sigh.
The next boat is in the planning stages at this moment. It is very apparent
that a mobile building cradle is an imperative since this boat will consume
more wood than both of my other boats combined. It will be too heavy to pick
up an carry.
Re your Windsprint gunwales: The wales were my least favorite part of the
assembly process. My advice, take your time and stick on one course at a
time, alternating sides. Plan on at least three work sessions to get them
on. If you have not already figured it out, they need to be about 17' long
so a little scarfing is in order. If you don't already have about 20
C-clamps, make up a bunch of PVC pipe clamps before you start. Have fun!
John Bell
Kennesaw, GA
jmbell@...
http://jmbell.home.mindspring.com
Always a problem for me. Once I put a boat on a mechanics creeper to move it
outside for sanding. Big mistake. A mechanic creeper has no directional
stability, especially on a grade. It can't be turned, it only goes down hill
and always into the most expensive thing at the bottom of the ill, like my
new car. Live and learn... sigh.
The next boat is in the planning stages at this moment. It is very apparent
that a mobile building cradle is an imperative since this boat will consume
more wood than both of my other boats combined. It will be too heavy to pick
up an carry.
Re your Windsprint gunwales: The wales were my least favorite part of the
assembly process. My advice, take your time and stick on one course at a
time, alternating sides. Plan on at least three work sessions to get them
on. If you have not already figured it out, they need to be about 17' long
so a little scarfing is in order. If you don't already have about 20
C-clamps, make up a bunch of PVC pipe clamps before you start. Have fun!
John Bell
Kennesaw, GA
jmbell@...
http://jmbell.home.mindspring.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Robert N. Lundy <rlundy@...>
To: A-Bolger List <bolger@egroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 26, 1999 9:36 PM
Subject: [bolger] Boatbuilding...sort of
> I spent the first three hours of boatbuilding today building a cart to
> easily move the Windsprint in and out of the garage for the really messing
> sanding steps that seem to occur with great frequency now that the hull is
> together. Haven't seen much discussion about moving the boats around for
> this type of thing. My cart is a 8'X40" ladder frame with some cheap
> casters from Lowes and cross pieces at each end to support the boat (about
> $38 worth of stuff). In an absolute fit of creativity, I screwed some
> stranglely shaped plywood scraps to the crossmembers in the ladder frame
> and, voila', a tool shelf for all the power tools. I can roll the thing
out
> of my garage and be working away in about 2 minutes this way. Makes it
alot
> easier to do little jobs at night after work. As soon as the film gets
> developed I'll put up some pics of the cart on my website for anyone with
> similar problems moving the boat around.
>
> I used some of the pre-thickened epoxy putty (microballoons) from
Fiberglass
> Coatings today for the first time. A little harder to mix at 2:1 as
opposed
> to the prethickened adhesive at 1:1. But really nice to patch holes left
by
> drywall screws etc. I'm hoping to get the stem/sternpost glassed tomorrow
> and finish sanding down the bottom edges to the same angle as the chines.
> then it'll be time to do the gunwales.
>
> Robert Lundy
>http://members.xoom.com/flboatyard
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Accurate impartial advice on everything from laptops to tablesaws.
>http://clickhere.egroups.com/click/1701
>
>
>
> -- Check out your group's private Chat room
> --http://www.egroups.com/ChatPage?listName=bolger&m=1
>
>
I spent the first three hours of boatbuilding today building a cart to
easily move the Windsprint in and out of the garage for the really messing
sanding steps that seem to occur with great frequency now that the hull is
together. Haven't seen much discussion about moving the boats around for
this type of thing. My cart is a 8'X40" ladder frame with some cheap
casters from Lowes and cross pieces at each end to support the boat (about
$38 worth of stuff). In an absolute fit of creativity, I screwed some
stranglely shaped plywood scraps to the crossmembers in the ladder frame
and, voila', a tool shelf for all the power tools. I can roll the thing out
of my garage and be working away in about 2 minutes this way. Makes it alot
easier to do little jobs at night after work. As soon as the film gets
developed I'll put up some pics of the cart on my website for anyone with
similar problems moving the boat around.
I used some of the pre-thickened epoxy putty (microballoons) from Fiberglass
Coatings today for the first time. A little harder to mix at 2:1 as opposed
to the prethickened adhesive at 1:1. But really nice to patch holes left by
drywall screws etc. I'm hoping to get the stem/sternpost glassed tomorrow
and finish sanding down the bottom edges to the same angle as the chines.
then it'll be time to do the gunwales.
Robert Lundy
http://members.xoom.com/flboatyard
easily move the Windsprint in and out of the garage for the really messing
sanding steps that seem to occur with great frequency now that the hull is
together. Haven't seen much discussion about moving the boats around for
this type of thing. My cart is a 8'X40" ladder frame with some cheap
casters from Lowes and cross pieces at each end to support the boat (about
$38 worth of stuff). In an absolute fit of creativity, I screwed some
stranglely shaped plywood scraps to the crossmembers in the ladder frame
and, voila', a tool shelf for all the power tools. I can roll the thing out
of my garage and be working away in about 2 minutes this way. Makes it alot
easier to do little jobs at night after work. As soon as the film gets
developed I'll put up some pics of the cart on my website for anyone with
similar problems moving the boat around.
I used some of the pre-thickened epoxy putty (microballoons) from Fiberglass
Coatings today for the first time. A little harder to mix at 2:1 as opposed
to the prethickened adhesive at 1:1. But really nice to patch holes left by
drywall screws etc. I'm hoping to get the stem/sternpost glassed tomorrow
and finish sanding down the bottom edges to the same angle as the chines.
then it'll be time to do the gunwales.
Robert Lundy
http://members.xoom.com/flboatyard