Re: Snug Fit for Chine Logs?
Bill, Fritz and Chuck:
Something that Chuck mentioned; external chine logs. I am finishing a
sailing skiff and back when i was fitting the chine logs, I was
thinking that I should have gone with external logs. I believe it
would have been less work and I think I would have liked the "retro
look". I'll do it on the next one.
Claude.
Something that Chuck mentioned; external chine logs. I am finishing a
sailing skiff and back when i was fitting the chine logs, I was
thinking that I should have gone with external logs. I believe it
would have been less work and I think I would have liked the "retro
look". I'll do it on the next one.
Claude.
--- In bolger@y..., "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
> Bill and Fritz:
>
> I agree with Fritz, but I would add this: It seems to me that you
could
> change to external chine logs with no apparent loss of performance
on this
> particular boat. Another option would be to stitch and tape that
joint.
> Having just finished my first taped seam hull, I wonder why one
would use
> any other system.
>
> Chuck
>
>
> > Bill,
> > Won't hurt a bit to start with a gap there in the frames around
the chine
> > logs and clamps, and it will make the fitting a bit easier and
faster to
> > have some gaps anyway. Be sure to fill the gaps later though!
(e.g. with
> > thickened epoxy - inject with syringe or somehow to get a good
fill). Not
> > for strength, but to keep water and rot out.
> >
> > Fritz
> >
> > Bill Wallace wrote:
> > > In building Bolger's Light Schooner, thinking about cutting out
the
> > >notches at the corners of the frames to take the chine logs and
sheer
> > >clamp, I am wondering how important it will be to cut the notch
precisely
> > >and get an accurate and snug fit for the logs and clamps.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------
> > Fritz Funk
> > Email at home: fritzf@a...
> > Phone: (H): (907)780-4261 (W):(907)465-6113
> > Snail: P.O. 6017 Sunset Street, Juneau, AK 99801-9728
> > My Boat Page:http://www.alaska.net/~fritzf/Boats/Boats.htm
> > (Bolger Sneakeasy and other projects)
> > B24 aircrew website:http://www.alaska.net/~fritzf/B24/B24.htm
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> > - no flogging dead horses
> > - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> > - stay on topic and punctuate
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> >
> >
> >
Bill and Fritz:
I agree with Fritz, but I would add this: It seems to me that you could
change to external chine logs with no apparent loss of performance on this
particular boat. Another option would be to stitch and tape that joint.
Having just finished my first taped seam hull, I wonder why one would use
any other system.
Chuck
I agree with Fritz, but I would add this: It seems to me that you could
change to external chine logs with no apparent loss of performance on this
particular boat. Another option would be to stitch and tape that joint.
Having just finished my first taped seam hull, I wonder why one would use
any other system.
Chuck
> Bill,
> Won't hurt a bit to start with a gap there in the frames around the chine
> logs and clamps, and it will make the fitting a bit easier and faster to
> have some gaps anyway. Be sure to fill the gaps later though! (e.g. with
> thickened epoxy - inject with syringe or somehow to get a good fill). Not
> for strength, but to keep water and rot out.
>
> Fritz
>
> Bill Wallace wrote:
> > In building Bolger's Light Schooner, thinking about cutting out the
> >notches at the corners of the frames to take the chine logs and sheer
> >clamp, I am wondering how important it will be to cut the notch precisely
> >and get an accurate and snug fit for the logs and clamps.
>
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------
> Fritz Funk
> Email at home:fritzf@...
> Phone: (H): (907)780-4261 (W):(907)465-6113
> Snail: P.O. 6017 Sunset Street, Juneau, AK 99801-9728
> My Boat Page:http://www.alaska.net/~fritzf/Boats/Boats.htm
> (Bolger Sneakeasy and other projects)
> B24 aircrew website:http://www.alaska.net/~fritzf/B24/B24.htm
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, or spamming
> - no flogging dead horses
> - add something: take "thanks!" and "ditto!" posts off-list.
> - stay on topic and punctuate
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
>
>
>
Bill,
Won't hurt a bit to start with a gap there in the frames around the chine
logs and clamps, and it will make the fitting a bit easier and faster to
have some gaps anyway. Be sure to fill the gaps later though! (e.g. with
thickened epoxy - inject with syringe or somehow to get a good fill). Not
for strength, but to keep water and rot out.
Fritz
Bill Wallace wrote:
Fritz Funk
Email at home:fritzf@...
Phone: (H): (907)780-4261 (W):(907)465-6113
Snail: P.O. 6017 Sunset Street, Juneau, AK 99801-9728
My Boat Page:http://www.alaska.net/~fritzf/Boats/Boats.htm
(Bolger Sneakeasy and other projects)
B24 aircrew website:http://www.alaska.net/~fritzf/B24/B24.htm
Won't hurt a bit to start with a gap there in the frames around the chine
logs and clamps, and it will make the fitting a bit easier and faster to
have some gaps anyway. Be sure to fill the gaps later though! (e.g. with
thickened epoxy - inject with syringe or somehow to get a good fill). Not
for strength, but to keep water and rot out.
Fritz
Bill Wallace wrote:
> In building Bolger's Light Schooner, thinking about cutting out the----------------------------
>notches at the corners of the frames to take the chine logs and sheer
>clamp, I am wondering how important it will be to cut the notch precisely
>and get an accurate and snug fit for the logs and clamps.
Fritz Funk
Email at home:fritzf@...
Phone: (H): (907)780-4261 (W):(907)465-6113
Snail: P.O. 6017 Sunset Street, Juneau, AK 99801-9728
My Boat Page:http://www.alaska.net/~fritzf/Boats/Boats.htm
(Bolger Sneakeasy and other projects)
B24 aircrew website:http://www.alaska.net/~fritzf/B24/B24.htm