[bolger] Re: Chine Logs
> >I've been reviewing GC's step by step for his Light Scooner, and itwent
> >appears that the chine logs went on the topsides before the sides
> >on the bulkheads.I did my Sneakeasy that way too (pre-assemble chine logs first), and
for a similar reason to Gregg - it just seemed like the most
straightforward way to go. Bending pre-assembled side panels with 1x2
chine logs around 6:1 length/beam ratios is no problem at all. In my
boatbuilding with kids I've found its much easier for them to nail down
on the floor rather than sideways up on the molds....holds true for
adults too I think! I bet Gregg with his pneumatic stapler can blast
those logs on in the blink of an eye.
At some point the stresses could work against you I suppose, but I am
getting away with it just fine on kid projects with my 11.5 foot "Wacky
Lassie" double paddle canoes, 24" beam, with chine logs just under 1x2.
That's right about at the bending limit, but it works.
Fritz Funk
My Boat Page:http://www.alaska.net/~fritzf/Boats/Boats.htm
(Bolger Sneakeasy, Boatbuilding with kids, and other projects)
>FBBB and Especially GC --That's what I did, and it just seemed simpler to do it that way. I doubt
>
>I've been reviewing GC's step by step for his Light Scooner, and it
>appears that the chine logs went on the topsides before the sides went
>on the bulkheads. This runs contrary to my (rather limited)
>understanding of laminated joints.
>
>Greg, do my eyes decieve me? And if not, why did you do it in that
>order? What manner of misery did you avoid by springing the chine logs
>and topsides as a single piece?
it matters. I was happy with my side panels, and my bulkhead positions
were marked on them (rather than the logs), so I pre-installed the logs to
get them out of the way and help with the handling of the sides.
I did my Sneakeasy by installing the logs to the frames and developing the
panels manually to fit.
Gregg
>Meanwhile, I've sketched out a flapper and cowling (PVC elbows and
>toilet parts,) arrangement for my yet to be created scuppers. The idea
>is that the cowling would protect the scupper while underway, and the
>flapper would protect from a following sea or while dead in the water.
>
>If I do end up going the raised interior floor/scupper route, I think
>it would be a good idea to "back up" the scupper hole with a little
>more wood. Any opinions on how wide a ring of how thick a piece of
>plywood should to the trick?
>
>YIBB,
>
>David
>
>
>
>
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FBBB and Especially GC --
I've been reviewing GC's step by step for his Light Scooner, and it
appears that the chine logs went on the topsides before the sides went
on the bulkheads. This runs contrary to my (rather limited)
understanding of laminated joints.
Greg, do my eyes decieve me? And if not, why did you do it in that
order? What manner of misery did you avoid by springing the chine logs
and topsides as a single piece?
Meanwhile, I've sketched out a flapper and cowling (PVC elbows and
toilet parts,) arrangement for my yet to be created scuppers. The idea
is that the cowling would protect the scupper while underway, and the
flapper would protect from a following sea or while dead in the water.
If I do end up going the raised interior floor/scupper route, I think
it would be a good idea to "back up" the scupper hole with a little
more wood. Any opinions on how wide a ring of how thick a piece of
plywood should to the trick?
YIBB,
David
I've been reviewing GC's step by step for his Light Scooner, and it
appears that the chine logs went on the topsides before the sides went
on the bulkheads. This runs contrary to my (rather limited)
understanding of laminated joints.
Greg, do my eyes decieve me? And if not, why did you do it in that
order? What manner of misery did you avoid by springing the chine logs
and topsides as a single piece?
Meanwhile, I've sketched out a flapper and cowling (PVC elbows and
toilet parts,) arrangement for my yet to be created scuppers. The idea
is that the cowling would protect the scupper while underway, and the
flapper would protect from a following sea or while dead in the water.
If I do end up going the raised interior floor/scupper route, I think
it would be a good idea to "back up" the scupper hole with a little
more wood. Any opinions on how wide a ring of how thick a piece of
plywood should to the trick?
YIBB,
David